What if you got those wee-wee pads that are used for house breaking dogs, and placed them around the front of her box?

Then you could switch them out right before you have a showing of your house - they would help absorb all the urine and effectively the smell, if it's not getting onto your floor, leaking under the box, etc.

It might help - and if you put new ones down right before you leave, it shouldn't get bad if you're only gone for an hour or so, here and there to show the house.

Get a cardboard box that is larger than your litter box. Make sure the sides are also higher. Cut out an opening so the cat doesn't have to jump over. Place the actual litter box inside, and to the back of the box, so the cat has to walk in. Cover the box with some heavy duty plastic and duct tape. Hopefully the splashing effect of peeing on the plastic will make the cat go in the actual litter mix. Also will make it easier to deodorize the area. If you are showing the house take the box outside.

With the housing market being what it is, you need to get some kind of odor eliminator product. If people smell cat urine they may assume that other areas are sprayed and they won't even consider your home.

Good luck.

My cat has started showing her displeasure over us spending a few days a week at our 'other' house by occasionally going on the floor next to her litter box. We found the doggie pads a huge help.

I'd be a little afraid that the suggestion above--about the sound of splashing on plastic--would push most cats to simply ignoring the litter box altogether.

You know, UTI's in elder humans can create a great deal of mental confusion. Wonder if the same is true in casts? If so, could be that once you get the infection under control, your baby will go back to doing what she's supposed to.

Thanks!

I thought about those dog pads, but when I looked at them, the box indicated that they had some smell to them that attracted puppies into peeing on them. I didn't know if that smell would be acceptable to a finicky feline, OR, I didn't know if that would make her want to "just" pee on the pad. I did find replacement pads for a new litter box system (non-absorbent pellets in the box on top of a grate which allows urine to fall down into a tray with the pads meant to absorb the urine...I forget what it's called...I just bought the pads).

Do the doggie training pads offer odor "protection"? They might be cheaper than the above cat pads.

I thought of putting the litter box inside another box, but I don't think the sound of urine splashing on the plastic would mean anything to her (her hearing has diminished too), but you've given me a great idea....

I think I'll construct the box like you described, housefairy, BUT on top of the plastic lining the big box, I'll put that absorbent crystal litter down under the regular litter box. That way, anything coming over the edge of the litter box will get absorbed by those crystals (which are supposed to offer odor control for up to a month).

Goodness, what we do for our critters!
Tracey

When my older cat was having this issue, I bought 6 bathroom rugs to put (one at a time) half under the front of the box. Absorbent, and very easy to pick up and replace a couple of time a day, and washable.

If you get desperate, you may want to look into human incontinence products -- there are chair and bed pads that you can purchase that are washable, and waterproof on one side. Because they're human products, you don't have to deal with the possible compelling odor issue from the puppy pads (I've had the same concerns myself), and the nice thing is because they're washable, you can just buy a couple and keep throwing them in the washer if they get stained.

Thanks for the ideas!

Speaking of human products....I wonder if I could fix a disposable diaper to lay open underneath the front of the litter box and catch the urine when she misses.

I've never had a baby, though...any suggestions on which ones might work if I try this? They're probably not wide enough....

Thanks,
Tracey

Hi Tracey! I've been wondering how you and Casey are doing.

I don't have great advice on this subject (I don't think), but that's a tough one! I don't think disposable diapers would work though, my DD is in a size 5 (pretty big in the diaper world) and it's not that big and tends to curl up. A better choice might be chux pads- I think that's what they are called. They are those disposable, absorbant pads they put under your rear when you go to the GYN. I think you can probably buy them at a medical supply store or maybe online.

Are you around during the day? I.e. could you clean up after her real quick before the house is to be shown? When my old guy was in bad shape, he could not climb into the deep litter box, so we gave him a shallow one that he ended up peeing over the edge. I just stuck old bath towels around the pan, and kept the washer full of soapy water. A few times a day I'd pick up the old towel, toss them in the washing machine, wipe down the floor with a cleaner, and put new towels down. Then I'd run the laundry load about once a day. It wasn't that much work, and spared the dignity of all involved.

A thought on your kitty's overactive bladder though... my mom was telling me recently that when people use the bathroom often (by choice), they end up not building bladder tone and capacity and can essentially end up with a bladder that NEEDS to be emptied frequently. I wonder if Casey got into the habit of peeing so often, from problems, that her bladder eventually lost the muscle tone and capacity that most cats have? Just a theory, nothing else.

My CRF cat is only eating dry food these days. It's frustrating, but all she will eat. I understand where you are coming from on the food front. *sigh*

Hi Quasifish:

Yeah, I thought about the diapers these days with all the elastic and realized it wouldn't open up like I want it. I checked out the cloth diapers, but I'll get more absorbency with old towels, so I'll do like you did. Gosh, what work these critters can become!

Your theory--I'd thought about that, with Casey's "over active bladder", assuming there's nothing else going on. It's like she's stuck in the "habit" now. But, it makes sense about losing bladder tone, esp. at her ripe age.

Have you tried Cat Sure (meal replacement)? Casey absolutely loves it. You'd think it's a margarita or something :-) I need to start ordering it online because it's so expensive at Petsmart.

Tracey

We looked at the CatSure, but have yet to try it. She was eating pretty well at the time and I was taken aback a little by the price, and not real sure she would go for it. How long does a can last Casey? We've been supplementing her with nutrical, which also seems to settle her stomach a bit and sometimes encourage her to eat.

Wow, your cat will take Nutrical? It's as bad as pills to get into Casey :-) I had the vet feed her some each time we were in for hydration back when Casey was only eating rotisserie turkey breast (my cat has expensive tastes!) in order to get some feline nutrients in her.

I divide each can of CatSure into 4 equal parts in little jars then I add a bit of water (3-4 Tbsp) into each to increase her liquids even more. I'm sure she'd drink more, but like you say, it's expensive. I occasionally will break down one of those servings into 3 smaller nighttime servings if she really begs at night for it. So, 1 can equals 3 or 4 days. I found one site online (but would have to search for it again) where even with shipping, the cost per can (I think) was less than $5 per. One thing I have noticed is that Casey's coat is softer and less "clumpy" (mats) since she started drinking it.

Years ago we had a 'missing the box' problem. We bought plexiglass, longer and wider than the box. We put the box on the plexiglass, and clean up was easier.

i hadn't read all the responses, but i have some similar experience. this might be stress issue. maybe the place where you keep the litter box is noisy?