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nmccormick

Building a deck, have some quesitons

17 years ago

I am starting to have some spring fever after the last 2 snowstorms and am planning a deck for spring.

I am looking to build a 16x24 deck on the South side of my house. This deck will be somewhat close to the ground. I am hoping to use ipe or composite for the decking and want to know how much room I need to leave between my beams and the ground? I read somewhere that it should be 6", Is this the lowest I can go?

If this is the case would using built up 2x8's work for the beams? (trying to keep this as low as possible) I plan on having posts 6 feet apart. Will probably have 3 beams with a total of 12 6x6 posts. This will be freestanding as I do not want to attach to my house. Plan on using 2x8 joists on 16" centers. Will this work? I want this to be a very sturdy deck.

Will Ipe hold up well to full sun all day (this is not a strong sun as I live in central maine)?

Thanks so much! Now if I only I could get the 3 feet of snow to melt.....

Comments (20)

  • 17 years ago

    NM person, you need to work up a Plan and go to the premit store. J.

    Side Note>>> ipe will hold up to anything

  • 17 years ago

    If you're using 5/4 TREX 16" OC is the maximum recommended and then only for light use. I'd consider going 12. The stuff is floppy.

  • 17 years ago

    Will this be a DIY project? Since you are building so close to the ground, give consideration to a patio rather than a deck. Compared to IPE or composite, the materials cost might be similar and your long-term maintenance costs non-existent. No rodents housing themselves underneath.

    We live in the upper midwest - heavy frost zone. I built a 28 x 24 paver patio 11 years ago. I've only had some very minor settling repairs in those years.

    This is a good season to plan. Good luck and enjoy the outdoors.

  • 17 years ago

    yes this will be diy. I have built a deck before but it was 4 feet off the ground.

    This has transformed from a flagstone patio into a deck. I think my wife is now wanting the deck. I found some great pictures yesterday of how I will probably build this, so being up 6 + inches may not be so bad anymore...

    If I spend the money on IPE I really dont want it to cup on me!

  • 17 years ago

    Whatever you build will be enjoyable. You stated south side of the house. Is it shaded? If not, give consideration to doing something in conjunction with the build.

    Ours has a SW exposure and lots of sun. I put footings for a pergola when building the patio and later completed the build atop the patio. If this is something you want to consider, just place the footings where you can get through the deck for anchorage.

    Here's a link.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Our Patio

  • 17 years ago

    Hi. Back to your original question. You can go the lowest to the ground by using a "flush beam" method.
    http://www.decks.com/article36.aspx

    If you area using 2 x 10 or 2 x 8, you just do the same for the beams. 3 ply on the front, middle and closest to the house. Joisting will butt into the beams inner ply. Of coarse using joist hangers. This means you would need 2 sections of 8' joisting. Or you can save a couple of bucks by ordering 14' material and cutting them into 7' halves. The extra 12" to achieve 16' is in the thickness of the beams.

    Piles would be located on the very exterior of the deck and would require either skirting or landscaping to cover them.

    Check out a new pile system called "ground screw piles". That is what they call them in Canada, I just don't recall the description used in the USA. They are a great idea. No concrete and minimal dirt removal.

    Thanks
    Les
    Edmonton Custom Decks

  • 17 years ago

    Thanks Les!
    A couple additional questions.

    I was hoping to do a cantilevered frame if possible. If I was to do this, what "should" be the minimum height of the beam from the ground? Can I set the beams on the footings? If I did this would it still be recommended to use IPE? Or should I go with a composite. Will there be enough air flow to avoid cupping? Decking will be about 18" off groundÂ

    Again this area is very dry, it gets full sun all summer long.

    Thanks again!

  • 17 years ago

    I think your first step as J.H. mentioned at the top, is to go to your building dept and find out what is required in your area. Go to the permit store, troubles no more...ignore, troubles galore come sale time!

  • 17 years ago

    No Problem,

    I do not like to actually touch the footings with the beam. Even an inch or two is good. I know ACQ material today is rated very good but once put in consistant contact with wet areas or possible right on top of areas where water might pool...I would just avoid it.

    I have to admit, I don't know alot about the IPE product. I would do alot of research online. As far as structure, Wheather you do flush beam or cantilever the joisting, it doesn't change anything except method of construction and allows you to get lower. You still have 2 x 10 joisting 16" o.c. That is key. You can also go to 12" o.c. Talk about a strong deck!

    Let me know
    Les
    Edmonton Custom Decks

  • 17 years ago

    One other note...

    If you go composite, do a google on the Trex product. And just for fun, include "lawsuit" in your search.

    Go to consumerreports.org and if you subscribe, check out the ratings. Trex is #1 (probably not for long) and Azek is #2. I am in the process of being a certified installer. I have installed the product and think it is awesome. A couple of things I really like about it is that it is PVC, really light weight compared to composite, grease from bbq cleanup is great. The composite I have heard is not very good at all for this type of stain. Especially after it has weathered for a year or two. Composite still contains wood product and will absorb.

    I talked to my customer with Azek decking and the thing he liked the most was that on a hot summer day (he gets full sun exposure), he could walk on it barefoot and not get burned.

    I have a couple of pictures. If you wish and I can send them.

    FYI

    Les
    Edmonton Custom Decks

  • 17 years ago

    Yo Les, the Azek, your framing on 12'' centers right? and 10'' or so with a bias pattern. J.

  • 17 years ago

    Hey John, no actually. 16" o.c. is manufacturers spec for horizontal board pattern. No question 12" is better but where ever customer can save money and still adhere to manufacturers spec for warranty, we will do it. If diagonal boards, absolutley 12" o.c.

  • 17 years ago

    I am a representative of Trex and came across your post and wanted to reply. 16" on center is our recommended joist spanning for the 5/4 x6 boards. This meets code requirements for building with Trex.You can go 12" on center for a "commercial" application. Joist spacing also depends on the angle that you are installing the boards. Diagonal Boards would be 12" on center. You can find this information on page 14 in our installation guide, which can be accessed through our website www.trex.com. If I can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact me at question@trex.com or 800-BUY-TREX.

  • 17 years ago

    I am a representative of Trex and came across your post and wanted to reply. 16" on center is our recommended joist spanning for the 5/4 x6 boards. This meets code requirements for building with Trex.You can go 12" on center for a "commercial" application. Joist spacing also depends on the angle that you are installing the boards. Diagonal Boards would be 12" on center. You can find this information on page 14 in our installation guide, which can be accessed through our website www.trex.com. If I can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact me at question@trex.com or 800-BUY-TREX.

  • 17 years ago

    Pat I have to hand it to ya you got a lot of nerve to keep showing up over here.

    Les cant agree with ya there,granted the azek specks are what they are butttttt, and you must know this having installed it a lot, that stuff will sag installed over 16'' on center exposed to the summer sun. Thats the reason you can bend it so easley with a heat process. J.

  • 17 years ago

    Hey John, you are absolutley correct. This spring/summer will be an excellent guage for me. The customer I did it for gets alot of sun exposure. I am revisiting the location in peak summer and that will determine my future joist spacing with Azek.

    Do you have any suggestions for bending process? What do you use and where can I get it. I saw one video on youtube. Essentially a dual heat blanket heated until core temp is reached and the bending options are endless. Very expensive though.

  • 17 years ago

    Hey John, what is the deal with this pat guy and you?

    Les

  • 17 years ago

    Les he is a trex man that gets on sitll pitching that junk/never responding to all the livid Wallets posting pic of rotting t= junk decks on the site.

    An Azek guy did a demo at my Local Lumber yard/ lunch hotdog thing. He had the whole set up and bent that stuff into a figure 8. I got some shorts and layed them out fastened on 16 in the Okie 100 degree. It wasent pretty the stuff is just too soft. J

  • 17 years ago

    Hey John, good to know. I am meeting with Azek rep early spring and will discuss with him. Thx for the info.

    I checked out you page...nice work! I really want to experiment with the bending, but 99% of my customers are all about price and the bending is very labor intensive.

    I will let you know in a couple of months what happened with my 1st Azek deck spacing of 16"o.c.

    Thanks again,
    Les

  • 17 years ago

    Go Get Em Man! Actually with the right stuff and the first one down working in the radias is not all that hard. J.