I remember! I don't see why not, but it would be difficult to sew the pieces of batting together. Can you attach the batting, quilt half, then rotate and quilt the other half? I also load my quilts "sideways" so I have to roll them less.

beverly

Jennifer,
Can you post a picture of what you have at this point? I'm not sure I understand where the batting and backing is completed now.
Turning is easy - if you need some detailed instructions, I can email them to you.
I have read where people with shortarms like ours, quilt king size quilts in individual 2 or 3 sections on the frame, than join each section QAYG method. I don't know about lining up a pantograph this way, but an allover quilting design would definitely work.

Had you already quilted the sections in the QAYG?

I have put a few partially quilted quilts on the frame to complete the quilting by sewing extra muslin to the backing to attach, and floating the quilt.

It's not easy for me to take & upload pictures, but I'll see what I can do.

Here's a better explanation:
The top is complete with borders
The back is complete
The batting was complete

I layered all three and pinned the center section.

I then cut away the two outside thirds of batting. I have these waiting to put back in place as I quilt.

No quilting is done at this point. The center section of the top is pinned.

I think I can load it as is to the frame, attaching the backing to the leaders. I think I can then quilt the center section that's already pinned; unroll it to the first section, add the batting back in, and quilt the first section. Then I'd have to unload everything, rotate it 180 degrees, reload it, add the last section of batting and quilt the rest. I'll need to pick a quilt design carefully so something doesn't end upsidedown, or plan on free motion something-or-other.

Beverly~I quilt my twins & fulls sideways too, to make things fit the machine better. These that need doing though are queens so it wouldn't matter much.

I understand now - the sampler QAYG I did (UFO) - each block with sashing was quilted so the backing is not separate and I have all those seams to sew by hand.

Does it fit on your frame sideways? Is the problem the take-up roll not fitting under the arm reducing the amt of remaining quilting area?

If it does fit on the frame, I would replace the batting with one piece of batting & reuse the batting you cut on other projects & quilt as normal on the frame.

If it does not fit - how much too wide or long is it than your frame?

I would minimize the separate pcs of batting if possible.

I've decided in order to quilt any kind of design, I needed to learn to be comfortable turning 90 degrees. Everything I read says stabilizing (basting) the quilt is necessary to avoid distortion and puckers on the back. So far, I have quilted the entire quilt, then turned and quilted the areas I wanted a continuous design.

When I loaded an already pinned quilt, attaching the backing to the leaders, it was difficult to maintain the right tension on the top. I was also brand new-it was a charity quilt, but it was so much easier loading the pcs separately (correctly). You've been quilting a long time and have much more experience than I have, so you know what you are able to do.

The main problem (you pegged it) is that with a full piece of batting there isn't enough room in the throat of the machine to do the entire quilt. I'd have to work half the quilt then turn it to finish.

It will fit the entire frame, it's really just the issue of the take up space...

Normal short arm problem-
Solution-make it easier on yourself
Replace the batting so it is one piece & the correct size.
Sew muslin to the backing, if need be, to make it large enough to attach to the leaders.
Load the quilt like normal.
Quilt as far as you are can - I think you like pantos-
Flip the panto so it is facing the correct way after you turn the quilt - line up - do a fake pass w/ no thread in the machine just to make sure all is okay.
As much as you accomplish - this will done and on your bed by tomorrow night! :~)

An easy way I've read to turn quilts 180 degrees - I have not done this - and it takes 2 people - is - with the quilt still loaded & rolled / attached - remove the takeup bar and the backing bar off the frame - sliding it out from the arm of the machine- walk it out - reverse it -- repacing the take-up bar with the backing bar and vice versa. You need space to do this - Visualize this - if I had that space -maybe I'd have a bigger machine - but thought I would share with you if you had not heard of this method.

The other way is baste to stabilize - unroll - reverse - making sure it is centered & squared - reverse your panto - line up and finish quilting.

Personally, I prefer free hand - from the front - and your brain has to reverse!

I've never heard of moving the bars to flip a quilt. Interesting. Alas, I have no room to take the bars off like that.

Unfortunately, my machine/frame setup does not allow me to work from the front. I am forced to work from the back. But I've learned how to do pantos and free motion this way, so it works.... for now.

I will get that quilt out and on the frame next. Have to get a college quilt done before the 15th first. Will have to figure out the pattern I'm gonna use anyway.

Thanks for all your thoughts and visualizations... Nice to have someone else to kick ideas around with.

My pleasure! I am learning, so I read alot and continue to tackle something different with each quilt.

I agree, it is nice to have someone else's ideas occasional. Sometimes we can't "see the forest for the trees" in our own situations.

My frame is set up in a confined spot-I had to choose quilting from front or back - I did one quilt -a panto from the back and I was so tense! I choose to quilt from the front, but want to try pantos again from the back now that I am more familiar with the feel of my set up.