If it's going back *all the way* to the wall, there's nothing you can do.

It does seem like a long ways...

Yes, it is all the way back to the wall - the wall they just put in!! I was wondering if they could move the pantries on each side of it out/forward a little. It would be a pain, but less work than rebuilding the wall. Is it worth it?? Or am I just over-reacting???? This job cost a lot of $ and I certainly don't want to accept something that will bug us forever, but also don't want to over-react if it is no big deal.

We have a "cabinet depth" Amana that we bought in 1991. It sticks out only a couple of inches. So I think your unit is not cabinet depth.

Cabinet depth units tend to be a bit wider and taller than conventional more boxy units.

True cabinet depth refrigerators are 24" deep. The 30" wide models are made by SubZero and Liebherr. Once you go to 36" wide, a host of companies make cabinet depth models that will be flush with standard cabinetry. These "built-in" type refrigerators are more expensive (substantially more expensive) than ordinary type friges. It is not at all unusual for standard types to be 32" deep not including the handle.

If you were still in the planning phase it would be easier. Refrigerators are typically 28-35" deep and counters are 24" deep so you can see the problem. Whether it looks bad or is in the way depends on your taste and where it is located. "Fixing" it is a question of how much money you want to spend on the problem.

At this point, you could:
1) Live with it. (Free!)
2) Buy the shallowest non-counter depth refrigerator you can find ($800+). It will still stick out but maybe not as much.
3) Buy a counter depth refrigerator. ($1,300+) (You can get a counter depth refrigerator in most brands, however you will pay more for less space. You can get a very basic 22.6 cu/ft. model for about $1,300 and it goes up, up, up from there. You don't have to buy a "fancy" built in like a subzero just to get close to counter depth, but to be fair most freestanding counter depth models will still stick out 2-3 inches.)
4) Recess into the wall/space behind ($$$) Many people in the kitchen forum have planned their kitchen this way. Their refrigerator either goes into the wall space prepared for it gaining 2-4+ inches or it may go into a closet, pantry or other architectural feature on the other side. Since your kitchen is already done or near done this may be difficult or impossible.
5) Alternatively there may be a way to use a filler or a part of a cabinet end panel or something at the back of the refrigerator "cabinet" so that the finished panels stick out 4+ inches. Although the cabinet itself would stick out the refrigerator would look more like it fits. Just remember to leave room for the hinges/door to open. (This might not cost a lot in materials, but it may cost some labor.) I'm trying to figure out if I could do something like this in my own kitchen.

Hopefully someone else will have another good idea we can all learn from!

- Jim

There are currently 3 catagories of refrigerator depths. Standard depth, counter depth and cabinet depth. Standard depth is the cheapest and cabinet depth is the most expensive. As stated previously, the shallower it is, the wider and taller it is.
Always a good idea to pick the appliances, then plan the kitchen layout.
Ron

"If it's going back *all the way* to the wall, there's nothing you can do."

If the wall is NOT weight bearing you can reduce the thickness by changing the studs behind the refrigerator.

Some units stop on floor molding in the refrigerator opening.
You can gain an inch or so by removing the molding behind the refrigerator.

2x3 (or even 2x2) studs with 1/4 inch plywood in place of drywall can free up a little more.

It all comes down to how much work you want to do to get back a few inches of depth.

Another thought is to pull your pantry cabinets forward - if you have the space in your kitchen to maintain a decent walkway.... Your contractor can brace behind the pantries and then secure them to the braces to bring the front of your pantries flush with the front your standard fridge. You may need deeper side panels to hide your "spacers" if you can see the sides of your pantries in your particular installation. I used this "cheat" on a house I remodeled and I was able to use a standard (read cheaper) fridge and still get the built-in look. Good luck!

If practical, and if it wouldnt look odd, you could have the cabinets bumped out as mentioned and get a new deeper countertop. You lose space to move in the kitchen by doing this. As I look at my fridge, it does stick out as well but it really isnt a problem with where it is located. If it was in the middle between two cabinets then it would be more noticeable for sure.

"Another thought is to pull your pantry cabinets forward - if you have the space in your kitchen to maintain a decent walkway.... Your contractor can brace behind the pantries and then secure them to the braces to bring the front of your pantries flush with the front your standard fridge. You may need deeper side panels to hide your "spacers" if you can see the sides of your pantries in your particular installation. I used this "cheat" on a house I remodeled and I was able to use a standard (read cheaper) fridge and still get the built-in look. Good luck!"

SEVEN years ago, hope they have it figured out by now..........