You can use a large j-box, but..... you CANNOT wire pool equipment (pumps, lights, etc) with UF cable. It MUST be conductors in conduit with an insulated ground. NO exceptions.

The pool pump isn't hardwired. It is an above ground pool with PVC plumbing and the pump has three pronged cord for plugging into a 15A receptacle. There are no lights or other electrical items attached to the pool. Would that constiture an exception?

My plan was to mount a dedicated receptacle on the side of the wooden deck (6' away, GFCI with a weatherproof cover) If that isn't compliant I can do everything with conduit and THHN to the receptacle.

If I must use THHN, does the insulated ground have to run all the way back to the panel? or is it okay that it will be connected to the romex for the run through the house?

I STRONGLY suggest you get a few good books on home wiring, specifically ones that cover pools.
There are MANY important codes with regard to wiring and bonding pools.
NO, your situation is no exception.

You can start by seeing the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/home-wiring-usa/accessory-structures-to-dwellings/electrical-wiring-above-ground-pools-2002.php

THWN. (Admitedly, nearly all of the "THHN" sold these days is dual-rated THHN-THWN.)

The insulated ground can connect to the NM (Romex) ground. No problem.

"The pool pump isn't hardwired. It is an above ground pool with PVC plumbing and the pump has three pronged cord for plugging into a 15A receptacle. There are no lights or other electrical items attached to the pool. Would that constiture an exception?"

I had the exact same setup as you in my back yard. The only necessity was that the pump cord needed to be plugged into a GFCI receptacle or GFCI breakered cc't with a weatherproof cover. I would ask your electrical inspector for a decision, and then go from there.

Unless this is a storable pool ALL the codes for pools applies.

petey,
Thanks so much for the information and the link. None of my books discussed pools, but the article was awesome and answered all my questions for my particular situation. My pool and pump are already bonded properly, and I will run THWN w/insulated ground to a weatherproof dedicated receptacle.

Which provides better protection, a GFCI receptacle or a gfci BREAKER for the circuit?

Well, if the receptacle is within 5'-10'of the pool it must be a twist-lock type so a GFI breaker is a must.

To answer your question, neither is any safer or better as far as protection goes.

I have had both types of GFCI's installed on my 2 homes over the years. For me it is a matter of convenience. Is it easier to reset a receptacle outside or a breaker inside? For me it's a no brainer when cold temperatures are involved. In my climate it is necessary to have the block heater of a car plugged in overnight, otherwise it would never start on a cold winter morning. Then it's nice to have the GFCI breaker indoors. However, if you are swimming or using an electric power tool outside, it's a pain to go inside and reset the breaker.
So for me it's all about convenience. Also, a GFCI breaker can more easily protect multiple receptacles. For a GFCI receptacle to protect other multiple receptacles, it's location upstream of the others is critical and its wiring can be a little confusing for a novice DIY'er. GFCI receptacles will more easily nuisance trip than GFCI breakers, in my experience.

Thanks petey and bird,
I have read the distance requirements a few times and I think I finally get it now. It is kind of a catch 22 if your pool pump is close to your pool. The cord can only be 3 feet long, but the recep must be 10' from the pool (5' if twistlock) which makes that impossible. My options are to move the pump further away or hardwire it. I think I am going to go ahead and hardwire the pump. This way I can just mount a switch 5' or more from the pump. In this case (no recep) a GFCI wouldn't be required, but I'll install a GFCI breaker anyway.

I have never had a problem with GFCI's nuisance tripping. I would think if you did it would indicate a problem in need of further investigation, wouldn't it?

I don't understand the problem. Put a twist-lock receptacle 5' away from the pool wall and a 3' cord will reach no problem. I do tons of installs like this. Most are under or next to a deck so the receptacle is not sticking up on a post in the middle of the grass.

Yes, that will work fine if the pump is at least 2 feet away from the pool, mine isn't......

It should be. Most are.

"In this case (no recep) a GFCI wouldn't be required, but I'll install a GFCI breaker anyway."
You HAVE to install a GFCI breaker. You have no legal choice but to do so.

"I have never had a problem with GFCI's nuisance tripping. I would think if you did it would indicate a problem in need of further investigation, wouldn't it?"
I have had GFCI recepts trip from heavy fog/mist at temps around freezing and also from thunderstorms in the immediate area. So GFCI recepts and breakers will trip from environmental conditions, not necessarily from electronic problems.

The best thing to do is check with your JHA (Jurisdiction Having Authority) - or a third party electrical underwriter.
Chances are for an above-ground pool you will need a permit, and hence an electrical inspection.
Call the inspector and find out what the requirements are for your municipality.
That way, you won't be paying fines & penalties when one of your neighbors gets a bug up it & calls you in.

As always - 'Live Safe Electrically'

petey,
my pump is at ground level, with the body parallel to the pool, about a foot away. As far as I have been able to learn, the location of the pump is not a code violation, but it creates a catch 22 with the rules for a receptacle. I have to either move the pump or hardwire it.

bird,
from the article linked above, it seems clear that no GFCI is required if the pump is direct wired, only if a receptacle is used. I agree that it is prudent to have a GFCI breaker anyway, and will use one.

pa electric,
The pool is not new, and was installed by previous owner without a permit. It has been connected with an extension cord (eek!). Same thing for the septic pump, hence the need for the new circuits.

I am in the process of correcting all the code violations and will be getting permits (some new, some retroactive) once I get all my ducks in a row. I will have my work inspected before it is covered, but I want to make sure they only have to come out once, that is why I am asking all the questions here. Our inspectors are always in the field and you might get a call back in 5-10 days if you are lucky. They aren't too helpful with DIY'ers, with questions, especially "girls".

I agree that the pump being one foot away creates an issue.
So what is the problem with moving the pump another foot from the pool wall???
The pool installers should have told you this. Problem is they are almost all morons who don't give a crap about anything that happens after they leave the site.

Petey, you have been wonderfully patient and answered my questions. Thanks so much for your time and your help.

Hardwiring the pump is actually simpler than replumbing, as it is hardplumbed with a complex valve setup for a liquid chlorinator.

I'd like to have a more conveniently located pump switch anyway. It is a two speed pump, with a little toggle switch at he bottom. In one direction it connects hot to the low speed, in the other it connects hot to the high speed and the center is off.

I can't find a SPDT center off switch suitable for outdoor use, so I was thinking I could accomplish the same thing by running 4 wires and using s pair of switches, a standard light switch (SPST) to control on/off in series with a standard 3-way (SPDT) to control hi/low. This way I could use weatherproof dual switch covers. Does that make sense?

A local correctional facility has, I am not making this up, DPDT/CENTER-OFF switches for their dayroom lights. The originals (80s/early-90s) required special wall plates but we've managed to find modern replacements that fit in the normal space. An SPDT/center-off switch is what you currently have. You could use a DPDT variant and just leave one pole unhooked.

Center-off toggle switch from Leviton

How odd. I searched for '4825' (same product from another manufacturer), it found product number 1282, and the url references it as 2961. lol. Gotta love the internet.

It's not that common of a switch, but it is certainly available. I just used one. My supply house actually had it in regular stock.

Thanks guys. The guys at CES looked at me like I was crazy when I asked for a spdt center off. We had one in our basement when I was a kid, so I knew I wasn't crazy.....for the life of me I can't remember what it was connected to, it was a scaaarrrry place!

I'm moving several branch circuits from a crowded main panel and need to use junction boxes to reach the new sub-panel. When using a single junction box for two or more circuits can all ground wires be tied together? If so, will this cause a ground loop as they are connected together again in the main panel via the sub-panel? If not, how can you isolate one circuits ground wires from the others in a common junction box? Thanks

When using a single junction box for two or more circuits can all ground wires be tied together?

Yes.

If so, will this cause a ground loop as they are connected together again in the main panel via the sub-panel?

I'm not sure I understand what you mean when you say they are connected together again in the main panel. If you are moving two (or more) circuits to a subpanel, then their grounds should run to the subpanel ground bar. And, naturally, the subpanel ground bar will connect to the main panel ground bar, but not on the basis of individual circuits.

In any case, it will not cause a "ground loop".

A house has one equipment grounding system, not a different grounding system for each panel or circuit. Connecting them all together is the objective.

Electricity is a very smart and efficient critter. When it "gets loose" (the purpose of equipment grounding), it'll find the least resistant path to ground every time and it seriously dislikes running around in "loops".

Rick,
I'm doing the same thing in my basement shop. The wires I'm moving from my main panel to the sub panel are not long enough, so I need to connect them within a junction box to corresponding NM cables using wire nuts, which I will then run to the sub panel. Based on everything I've read, I was just planning on connecting all the bare equipment grounding conductors together in the junction box, together with a grounding pigtail to ground the junction box. Once in the sub panel, all the EGC wires will be connected to the grounding bus bar (which of course is electrically isolated from the neutral bus bar in the sub panel). I'd be interested to hear if the experts think this should be done differently.

TerribleTom, SuvDave,
A "ground loop" occurs when branch grounds are connected at a point, separated, then connected again at another point thus providing multiple paths or a "loop" for current flow. Which is exactly what we are doing here. I know in electronic equipment this can cause problems and so all grounds return separately to a single grounding point or buss. However apparently it won't cause a problem here. Thanks for your help. Rick

rick,
I asked my inspector this same question in regards to my situation, and he told me to keep the grounds separate for each circuit. I don't know the specific reasoning.

My situation is a bit different than yours in that there is no subpanel involved, I am just using one jbox to extend 3 branch circuits.

We are talking about 120/240v AC wiring here, NOT electronics.
This is NOT a "ground loop" referred to in all the electronics write ups, and will not cause problems, and is typically the way it is done.
There is a code disagreement about how this section reads as to whether they should be kept separate or all bonded in each box.

I am in the "all bonded in each box" camp.

250.148 Continuity and Attachment of Equipment Grounding Conductors to Boxes
Where circuit conductors are spliced within a box, or terminated on equipment within or supported by a box, any equipment grounding conductor(s) associated with those circuit conductors shall be spliced or joined within the box or to the box with devices suitable for the use in accordance with 250.148(A) through (E).

Ground loops are a problem at specific frequencies in electronic equipment, mostly audio frequencies.

They are NOT an issue for power wiring except under very special circumstances.

I'm in the process of a remodel and will be adding a bathroom and laundry room. Within that bathroom I'll have 1 GFCI outlet, 2 small lights above the sink, 2 shower lights and 1 bathroom fan. On the same circuit, in the laundry room next door, I'll have 2 recessed lights and 3 outlets - don't believe they all can be GFCI based on what I've read. Can these all be on the same 20-amp circuit run with 14/2 Romex cable? These will all be connected within a single junction box with 1 wire that runs back to the circuit panel.

How many wires can enter a junction box on a single circuit?

Is it safe to install a light switch at the end of a GFCI string of outlets?

Thanks in advance

See duplicate post here:
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/wiring/msg1018542119905.html?4

NO, you CANNOT have all that on one circuit.
NO, you CANNOT use a 20A breaker wired with #14.
NO, the bathroom GFI needs to be on it's own circuit (with few exception).

WHY would you use a single box for all that???

I STRONGLY suggest you do some reading up on home wiring. There are many good books out there.
You need to be up on the basics of residential wiring before you go at this job!

in addition to what Petey said, you need a separate circuit for your laundry room outlets as well. Do you have a sink in your laundry room? Are your outlets within 6 feet of said sink? I imagine you have a dryer in there as well? Is it 220? Do you know what size wire to pull to it? Size of breaker? Etc...

based on reading your three posts on your issue. you're looking at pulling in around 5 circuits.
1 for the lights in your laundry room and bathroom, 1 for your bathroom outlets, 1 for your laundry, 2 for your dryer (unless it is gas)

I highly recommend you read, and consulate a qualified electrician and save yourself the trouble of trying to fix things after the fact.
By doing what you've stated you're not only breaking several NEC codes, but you'd be doing some pretty unsafe things.

Even if not strictly mentioned in the code, the manufacturers instructions for most pool equipment these days MANDATES a GFCI (and hence is required by the code).

Reading up on house wiring is good for minor repairs. Screwing around with swimming pool installation is not for the non-savvy DIY electrictian.

I appreciate the advise and will consult an electrician.

To answer the questions asked - The dryer is Electric and has it's own dedicated circuit which already existed.

There is no sink in the laundry either.

"Based on reading your three posts on your issue. you're looking at pulling in around 3 circuits. 1 for the lights in your laundry room and bathroom, 1 for your bathroom outlets, 1 for your laundry"

So if I understand you correctly, I'll need to use three 15A circuits with 14/2 wire and the one GFCI outlet, which will be installed within the bathroom, will need to be dedicated to one of those circuits. Correct?

The bathroom and laundry receptacles need be on separate 20A circuits dedicated to those areas. (You can share non-receptacle outlets in the SAME bathroom or receptacles between multiple bathrooms but not both).