Pull all the devices out and replace after drywall. You may need to get some box extensions depending on how far your boxes are set back.

Here is a link that might be useful: box extenders

You may wish to see before you hang the drywall if you can remount the boxes so they won't need extenders as well (i.e., within 1/4" of the ultimate finished surface)

If the front edge of the box is currently flush with the front edge of the stud, remove and install them with a 1/2" proud of the stud. The next step is to turn off power to the devices, remove the screws and tuck one end of the device inside the box so they don't interfere with the installation of the drywall.

Good advice. I was preparing mentally to pull them all but wasn't sure if it was necessary.

To clarify, the boxes are mounted (correctly I believe) utilizing the molded in bosses to create a 1/2" proud so as to be approximately flush with the finished wall when installed.

So, some great suggestions here (1) remove the switches and receptacles completely (with power off) or (2) tuck one end inside the box. Thanks!

I'm guessing that tucking them in will work with most of the boxes but not with the ones more full of wires. To help determine which is which: Is the intent that the device fit completely inside the box or will the installer be able to deal with one end sticking out some, and if so how much? Maybe it's a dumb question and I should just go experiment?

I might need a labeling kit? Lots of 3- and 4-way switches to reconnect and those boxes have a lot of wires in them.

Thanks for all your help.

You don't need to disconnect any wires. Turn the power off, unscrew the devices, pull them out as far as you can and then twist them so that one end is sticking in towards the box and the other end is sticking out. The idea is that the hole in the drywall can be slipped over the device.

I'm sure Greg wants to be helpful - but....... That hack job picture is exactly what you don't want.

Remove the devices. If you can - use a Rotozip.

Haha.
Okay ... I should have mentioned that he should ignore the drywall hacking. I was trying to show the receptacle placement.

It was just the first google picture that I could find.

That's what I would do if I was hanging the drywall (but definitely neater drywall cutting). But I guess if pros are hanging the drywall, they may prefer (or require) that you remove the devices so that they can use a rotozip as said above. Faster for them, more work for you.

This post was edited by greg_2010 on Tue, Nov 11, 14 at 15:43

And one more thing ... if you are hiring the drywall out ... make sure that you note where every box is in the room. Sometimes they are in such a hurry that they'll forget to cut out a hole and it'll be buried behind the drywall.

and if you choose to leave the devices in the openings wrap them up in a sandwich baggie or I guarantee you will be spending a lot of time chipping mud off them.

If the boxes stand proud of the studs, it will be harder for them to miss cutting the hole for them as the drywall won't lie flat (though I've seen stranger things).

The plastic isn't a bad idea. Not only drywall mud but if you're also having painters come through, they also may get stuff on your devices.

Rotozip use seems to be a personal preference with the rockers. Many of them can cut faster with the small drywall saw (what we call the "steak knife").

I never removed the devices, the dry wall guy I use is a pro. Uses a roto zip and makes a beautiful cut around the devices. Never was an issue.