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curmudgeon10_gw

Moving an Outlet

13 years ago

I want to install a pocket door in our bathroom, and to do so, I'll need to move an outlet one stud bay over. I haven't opened the wall yet to see what I am dealing with, but no doubt there will not be sufficient existing wire to move the outlet.

I know all the code about burying junction points, and I understand the reasons for the restrictions.

This project is on the second floor of my home, which has three levels, all finished. To do this job properly, I assume that I must chase the wire(s) that are now too short to reach the relocated box back to their junction points and run new cable that is long enough.

I just don't see how I am going to be able to do this without creating a lot of holes in dry wall. It may be that when I open the wall, a miracle will transpire and that won't be true, but I don't have good luck with miracles when I need them.

SOOOO....HYPOTHETICALLY, of course, if one were to splice a new section of cable rather than fishing new runs, could the risk be minimized by a) soldering the connections b) covering with shrink tube and then c) wrapping securely with electrical tape?

Comments (11)

  • 13 years ago

    I'm not an electrician, but I know there are easier ways. Once you open the wall an electrician can likely solve it with one hand tied behind their back.

    Don't let this little obstacle stop you from commencing the project.

    Hint: maybe a shallow box will do the trick, or maybe install an outlet one stud bay over (using the same wire). If you are moving it away from the existing doorway, chances are good the wire is coming from the other direction so it won't have to be any longer. That's my layman's description, anyway.

    This post was edited by homebound on Mon, Dec 31, 12 at 14:30

  • 13 years ago

    Thanks. Normally these outlets are wired all on a circuit, so there is a wire going into the box and one leaving the box. The new position, out of the way of the bay for the pocket door, will make one of the existing wires (unmodified) too long, and one too short.

    I'm doing this --- my second pocket door project --- one way or the other.

  • 13 years ago

    Open the outlet and see if you have one pair or two. You could be on the end of the run. If not, still, the second pair may do a 180 back from the door opening. Maybe you just have to eliminate an outlet. It will become clear when you open the wall. Good luck.

  • 13 years ago

    Thanks. If I eliminate the outlet, do I just cap the wires with wire nuts in the wall and remain legal? Wouldn't they still remain "hot" and therefore be against code?

  • 13 years ago

    No, please don't do that.

    For example, let's say there are outlets on both sides of the wall. One might eliminate one of them so the existing wire doesn't have to travel straight across the pocket to the other (it would be in the way of the sliding door). Or one could replace that length of wire (between the outlets) with a longer wire, i.e enough to make the transition around the pocket without obstructing it.

    I suggest opening the wall, then having an electrician look at it. The course of action will depend on what you have, but is most likely to be short and sweet. Also, don't fear some drywall work. You'll be doing some wall repair with this project anyhow.

  • 13 years ago

    "Hint: maybe a shallow box will do the trick"

    If the wall is 4.5 inches thick (a typical 2x4 stud wall with 1/2 inch drywall in each room) their is no way to have ANY 120 V boxes in the pocket door area on either side of the wall.

    You need at least a 'wet wall (2x6 studs)' thickness to get a 1.25 inch deep box in (and even then it can get very tight on the back of the box).

    You also must still meet the 12 foot spacing for receptacles in both rooms if it applies ('no more than 6 feet parallel to the wall to reach a receptacle).

    You cannot cap off live wires and just leave them hanging in a wall either. The live end MUST be in an accessible junction box (JB).

    You need to go back to the feed JB for the cable and disconnect the wires their and cap them off.

    You do NOT have to actually remove the cable though.

  • 13 years ago

    I'm not planning to have an outlet in the pocket door area. Note I said I needed to move it one bay over --- to avoid that problem.

    There is no outlet on the other side of the wall. There is a built in Jacuzzi tub, however.

    I will update this thread after I open the wall, perhaps with a picture.

    I am an ace dry wall repairman. That doesn't make me fond of it.

  • 13 years ago

    Will you still meet the receptacle spacing rules?

    They are not random.

    Withing 6 feet of a door edge, and 12 feet apart.

    No place on the wall more than 6 feet from a receptacle.

  • 13 years ago

    OK, I exposed everything and found that the box had a cable entering the top, and a cable exiting the bottom through a hole in the plate for that level's wall. It travels on to places unknown, as the basement below this level is finished also.

    Since there is also an expensive built in in the same area in the basement that this cable travels to, I elected to leave the box where it is, and use a 2-0 door instead of a 2-6 for my slider. This means the stud the box is mounted on does not need to be moved, and thus the box stays where it is.

    Thanks to everyone who offered advice.

  • 13 years ago

    Sounds like a good, and legal solution without a bunch of re-work.

  • 13 years ago

    Until you want to install a new tub or shower surround. Just thinking ahead for you.