National Electrical Code

314.17

(B) Metalic & (C) Nonmetallic Boxes and Conduit Bodies.

[…]

Where nonmetallicsheathed cable or multiconductor Type UF cable is used, the sheath shall extend not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.) inside the box and beyond any cable clamp. In all instances, all permitted wiring methods shall be secured to the boxes.

334.30

Securing and Supporting.

Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4 1/2 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) of every outlet box, junction box, cabinet, or fitting. Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge.

Sections of cable protected from physical damage by raceway shall not be required to be secured within the raceway.

(B) Unsupported Cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable:

(1) Is fished between access points through concealed spaces in finished buildings.

300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage. Where subject to physical damage, conductors shall be protected.

(A) Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members Cables and Raceways Through Wood Members.

(1) Bored Holes. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cableor raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members, holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 32 mm (1 1/4 in.) from the nearest edge of the wood member. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by screws or nails by a steel plates(s) or bushing(s), at least 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width installed to cover the area of the wiring.

Exception No.1: Steel plates shall not be required to protect rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing.

Exception No.2: A listed and marked steel plate less than 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick that provides equal or better protection against nail or screw penetration shall be permitted.

(2) Notches in Wood. Where there is no objection because of weakening the building structure, in both exposed and concealed locations, cables or raceways shall be permitted to be laid in notches in wood studs, joists, rafters, or other wood members where the cable or raceway at those points is protected against nails or screws by a steel plate at least 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width, installed to cover the area of the wiring. The steel plate shall be installed before the building finish is applied.

Exception No.1: Steel plates shall not be required to protect rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing.

Exception No.2: A listed and marked steel plate less than 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick that provides equal or better protection against nail or screw penetration shall be permitted.

And fitting things into the shallow boxes as well. The Handibox's can support exactly ONE device and ONE cable at 12/14g. I have a townhouse that was a year old and one of the outside receptacles was suspect. I pulled the in use cover off it to find a handibox embedded in the stone facade. Fortunately they had NOT overloaded it.

Getting back to the original question...are you removing the drywall? Do these narrow studs tough the wall...how are you intending to get the wire in. Are you going to cut or bore through the studs or fish behind?

This is a wall behind new kitchen cabinets. I need two new
electrical items. The first is an outlet which will be powered by an existing
2 amp GFI circuit nearby. A 2 inch deep steel handibox was the plan, with one
outlet. 2 inches comes out just right, 1 1/2 inch stud and 1 /2 inch
drywall. I would drill through the sole
plate and sub floor from the crawl space, and snake the wire up to the box. I’ll
locate the box next to a stud to screw it to. The second item is a feed for an
under-cabinet light that will be powered from an existing ceiling light circuit
and drop down this same wall in a similar manner to the outlet. These two wires
will stay in one stud cavity so there will be no need to drill holes through
the studs, just the bottom and top plates. The bottom and top plates is where I
know I will need to install some steel plates to protect the wires. I don’t
know what you mean by “Do these narrow studs tough the wall” I really
appreciate your help.

You should be able to just fish the wires to then without worry.

See 334.30 (B)(1) in Fred's post above. It wouldn't hurt to put the plates to protect where it goes through the top/bottom plates but frankly I wouldn't bother myself.

You would be better off using these boxes.

old work

I agree with Fred...handy boxes are a pain and they don't really provide any real nice mounting.

Thanks guys. This was very helpful.

Hanging kitchen cabinets on a wall with studs turned the wrong way doesn't seem very strong. Also if you drill a hole for a wire then you have like 1" of stud thickness keeping the wall straight. Fair amount of weight in those cabinets and if the wall wiggles from a kid running into the wall on the other side then things might fall out of the cabinet? Personally I would have it reframed.

Good thoughts. The cabinets won't be hanging from the wall. It is a pantry area. It is a little more complicated than that, but none will be supported by the thin wall.

I have an a-frame home with no wall cavity so we ran all our electric through exposed conduit. Installed precisely and neatly it incorporates an edgy industrial touch to the intrrerior and i love it! We also just painted the dark wood white.