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Heated floor causing shock from shower fixture

10 years ago

We just renovated our bathroom and had a heated floor mat and thermostat installed (TEC brand from Lowes, the themostat is TEC but made by Honeywell). We also converted tub to tiled shower, and installed a new shower fixture. The heated floor runs only down the center "aisle" of the bathroom and the mat does not touch the shower pan. The shower pan has a curb and the drain is PVC. There is no electrical in the wall where the shower valve and head are, and no plumbing was moved. The heated floor wire for the thermostat runs up the wall on the opposite side of the entry door, to the thermostat.

So, the first shower I took after turning on the lovely heated floor, I felt a mild electric shock "tingle" when I touched the showed valve when standing on the wet floor (obviously - having a shower!). I saw the wall when open so I knew there was no electric in there. I texted the contractor and he was mystified as to how the current could travel - and of course the thermostat has built in GFCI! I said maybe it was a static shock or I felt the water pulsing or something... but today DH had a shower and jumped back when he touched the valve - same thing happened to him! I turned off the heated floor and he touched it again and it was fine. YIKES!

So I texted the contractor about this update and he's calling the manufacturer to try and figure out what could cause this. It still makes no sense to me how it could be interacting with the floor heat! The pipes and electric are in separate walls. And of course the GFCI should kick in and shut off the floor heat if there was a current leak.

Our contractor will fix the problem, but first he has to know what it is, and I thought I'd ask here in case anyone has had a similar issue. If you have, what was the root cause?


Comments (11)

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Ron Natalie, the heating matt is not in the shower area though - so no water is reaching it. Do you mean the electricity may be traveling though the dry mortar? I guess it's either rip it all out or disconnect it permanently, if that's the case.

    This is the product we used: http://www.lowes.com/pd_643504-70680-3708008111_1z0viqzZ1z11oi7__?productId=50339570&pl=1

    The installation instructions do not say it needs to be taped on the edge - only if the mat needed to be cut, which it should not have, given the room size (mat was 90" and room size 109") but I will check.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9Cp8bua2Eg

  • 10 years ago

    Water doesn't have to reach it. As I stated, mortar and grout IS conductive. I never said squat about it having to be within the shower.

  • 10 years ago

    OK, you said especially given a little moisture so I wanted to clarify the mat is not in the shower area. Anyway this mat did not require taping (unless trimmed to fit, which it was not) as it is sealed, as per the manufacturer instructions. The wires came attached to the mat and insulated. of course it's possible they were damaged during installation, but we'll have to check easier things first, like the thermostat and the wire behind it. The contractor is calling the manufacturer during their business hours to discuss what could be causing the issue.

  • 10 years ago

    That mat is leaking current.

  • 10 years ago

    Dang, sounds like pull up the tile or remove the thermostat, cap it off and abandon it.

  • 10 years ago

    I will wait to hear what the diagnosis is - basically either be that the thermostat and wiring to it is at fault and will be replaced, or as said the mat itself is leaking current either due to manufacturing defect or installation damage. If it's the mat I don't think we want to pull up the tile and replace, we'd likely elect to remove the thermostat cap off the wires and pretend it doesn't exist - because I don't want a huge mess in the house after we just cleaned up from the renovations (we did kitchen too) and think I could even trust a re-installation if the mat is so fragile. We will definitely will want a refund for the materials and installation costs, but it's going to be difficult to determine whether it's a defect or installation issue without ripping up the floor. I just wanted a warm floor underfoot :(

  • 10 years ago

    You don't happen to have an unfinished basement and this bathroom doesn't happen to be on the first floor does it? If so you can still have your heated floor. It is just a lot more work and money to install radiant floor heat although if the contractor screwed up installation you can take the refund and put it into that. Just a suggestion. I installed a heated floor in a heated bedroom a couple years ago with out an issue so don't be afraid of them. Sometimes things just happen. I would guess that the mat itself isn't the problem but the wiring attached to the matt got frayed or was incorrectly hooked up.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Update - it turns out that the mat does not have a ground wire, and the upstairs plumbing is not grounded. They tested when the heating mat is on there is not only current in the shower plumbing but also in the other bathroom plumbing and every metal fixture upstairs. No water needs to be present, they tested without running the shower. All downstairs plumbing is fine. They found there are ground wires on the copper pipes running to upstairs, but there must be some non conductive material in the walls (maybe a flex elbow they said). So grounding the upstairs plumbing is apparently step 1.

    Any thoughts on this?


    D G we are on slab foundation AND the bathroom is second floor.

  • 10 years ago

    I don't buy it. While metal water piping should be bonded (many people call it grounded), that doesn't explain why the heater is leaking current. In fact, having the water piping grounded will make things worse, not better.

    Is there a GFCI installed as required on the floor matting. If you didn't cut the mat, what did he do with the extra set of cold leads? Did he make sure that there was nothing that could ding the mat? Did he wait the 28 days from installation to energizing the unit? Again DID HE BOTHER TO READ AND FOLLOWS THE INSTRUCTIONS?

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Yes I agree with you the mat must be leaking current in order to
    produce this effect. Unfortunately the cost of materials is so low compared to the cost of
    installation. I imagine if we go further with the troubleshooting we
    will reach a point where it's impossible to prove whether the mat is
    defective or if it was damaged from install, without ripping the whole thing out. The contractor was present
    when mat was installed and claims it was not damaged. The manufacturer
    is unlikely to warranty anything without proof of that which would
    presumably entail removing the floor. So that would mean we'd be paying a lot more for labor to have the issue diagnosed.

    I think we want the contractor to
    finish the kitchen work (install sink, DW hookup and backsplash) and then we'll have them cap off the system and abandon it. It's on its own breaker so it's not a risk right now.
    I will not expect to be charged for the install, I can return the
    thermostat and I'll be out $200 for the mat itself worst case scenario.
    If I need to get an electrician in there to separately confirm that it's
    most likely an install issue (ie if contractor charges me for install),
    I will.
    There were no extra leads, the mat came with the wires attached.

    We turned on the floor about 7 days after install when we moved back in, no one instructed us otherwise. I did see in the instructions online later to wait 28 days. I figured that is to allow mortar to set avoid cracking etc, but I didn't see that info until I watched the video after getting the shock.

    Lesson learned, if you want something like heated floor get an installer who has experience with the product.

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