Looking closer at the reviews for the RCA RG6, they are quite mixed. One thing that may be a problem is if it needs to be cut, a standard connector may not fit snugly enough because the diameter of the cable is a bit smaller. You may be better off buying it in bulk at HD and letting the internet company put connectors on it if you still want to bury it in the wall. If not, let them supply the cable since only about a foot should show outside before it goes into the crawlspace, and it can be behind the conduit for the service feed riser if you watch them and keep them from being sloppy. But, I always run the cable myself because they are usually sloppy.

Thanks Fred for the information. I appreciate it.

I'm not sure I 100% follow what you're doing, so I'll try not to confuse things. In my neighborhood, with mostly relatively older homes, all the feeds are overhead from the street. I'm unclear if the "electrical box" is the demarcation box for the telecom provider that you get your DSL from. I guess it's a decent assumption that cable would come to the same point from the street.

I like the idea of putting a conduit in and not worrying about the wiring for now, unless you want to re-pull your existing phone line. Definitely think about where your gateway/router/wifi AP will go in the future. You might also take advantage of the remodel to put wires in the walls to some locations for future wired network/TV. Even if you don't want TV, a future owner might.

We relatively recently moved from DSL to Uverse internet. I had set up our wired/wireless network even with the slower DSL service so that it was relatively painless to upgrade (old house). I used a structured wiring panel as a hub for the phone/network wiring throughout the house (our DTV coax is run separately). Our gateway and router are in a central location, also, for wifi coverage. If you have that much of an opportunity in terms of access, you might consider setting things up to do something similar in the future. I have coiled Cat 6 in the attic/crawl to a couple of rooms that I haven't yet needed to go back and install wall outlets.

FWIW, I've had good luck buying stuff from Firefold (bulk cable, patch cords, Keystone jacks and wall plates, etc). They're in NC, so cost and time for shipping aren't bad for me in GA.

For wall jacks, install the cords in a standard outlet box and hook them up to keystone jacks which snap onto a face plate which screws to the outlet box. To apply wires to the keystone jack you use a punchdown tool. People that work with these every day would get the impact punchdown, but since you wont use it daily the standard tool will work just fine.

For coaxial heads, compression is the only way I will do it, it is easier and the best way. I have used this kit with success. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Coax-Installation-and-Testing-Kit-with-Connector-VDV002818/203799415

If you need an Ethernet head on the end of a line you will need an ethernet crimper and the heads and look up how the colors go into the head then crimp it. This takes some practice and patience.

I would recommend you run the wire from the outdoor box to a central location where you can put a switch and run the Ethernet throughout the house, same thing with the coaxial run that to a central location with other wires run throughout.

Thanks thull and Vith. Piece by piece I'm building an understanding and an inventory.

Do not mix LV and HV wiring in the same box or electrical noise will interfere with your TV and/or Data signal.

You can use open back mudboxes. You can leave the wires behind the wall and open it later when you are ready to install a wall plate. Just be sure to secure them well (prevent sheetrockers from screwing into them) and measure and photograph where they are so you can cut a hole later and retrieve them.

Wire:

Use good quality wire. Don't cheap out.

Not all Category 6 is category 6. Lots of false advertising. Cat 6 MUST be solid copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). This is what I'd buy.

spool of cat6

Do not run Low Voltage wiring in parallel or next to house wiring for interference reasons. If they must cross paths, do it at a 90 degree angle.

I would pull 2 Cat6 cables to each location. Easy to do now.

Often, the LV box is added AFTER sheetrocking using a box like this.

Mud box

Where your wires go through lumber, install a nail guard to prevent sheetrockers from screwing into your wire.

--Russ

Couple notes:

I've used the T&B Snap N Seal coax connectors with a lot of success. The tool may be more expensive than the Klein one, but it's what all the installers that have worked on our DTV over the years have used. I bought one many years ago, and I think they've at least gotten cheaper.

I wouldn't do anything that requires that you have to terminate Ethernet cable into male connectors. This is a pain to do, and pre-terminated patch cables are cheap. Terminating into female Keystone wall jacks is much easier- just maintain the twist of each pair as close to the termination as you can (there are many videos on doing this). I like the impact version of the punch-down tool- not sure if a different version will cut the wires. I bought one of the cheap ones from HD that had bad reviews and it's held up so far- maybe it would be bad if you used it all the time for dozens/hundreds of terminations.

We have an old house (built in '49) and I've wired or rewired a big chunk of it. I've also put a lot into improving the insulation and air sealing. For that reason, I would hesitate to use open back wall boxes. I have had great success with retrofit or "old work" boxes- it's so much easier to just cut out an old box (hack saw or reciprocating saw to the nails), reach in to fish new wires, then slip a retrofit box into the hole. I tend to do some combination of a gasket under the wall plate, caulk, and/or expanding foam in the holes in the back of the box. It's great to get it right the first time, but I also wouldn't hesitate to cut a hole in the wall or replace a box to get what I needed later.

Lastly, Russ is talking about 120V AC (lights, receptacles, etc) or 240V AC (dryer, oven, e.g.) when he says "HV." I'm used to working with industrial facilities where these are still considered low voltage, and there's 4160V or 12kV that's "medium voltage." High voltage is utility transmission wiring. Good suggestions otherwise.