Where do you live? Location and climate can have a great deal to do with the ability of macs to bloom well.

I'm having the same problem. In my case I'm pretty sure I cut them back too late last year. Huge beautiful bush (6"or 7" tall) with not a single flower. They sure do need plenty water.

Blushing Bride is a remontant hydrangea. Like all other H. macrophyllas, it produces invisible flower buds in July-August that open in the Spring. And like other remontant H. macrophyllas, it develops flower buds later on again and blooms around mid-to-late summer..

So consider some possibilities that may cause problems:

* planting in dense shade makes any H. macrophylla produce few flower buds

* fertilizing more than once with high nitrogen fertilizers makes H. macrophyllas produce nice dark green foliage at the expense of bloomage. So you get little or no blooms. There are some cheapo kits sold at plant nurseries that can do a soil test and tell you if nitrogen levels are high. A single fertilizer application in Spring is usually enough. 1/2 cup to 1 cup of cottonseed meal, composted manure or organic compost will do for the whole year. One application of a slow-release general purpose chemical fertilizer in Spring is also good enough; look for those whose NPK Ratio is around 10-10-10. The 1st number is nitrogen and should be close to 10. Provided your soil has no deficiencies, skipping fertilizer applications should not do any harm to the plant.

* inconsistent watering can kill flower buds. It is best to maintain 3-4" of mulch and keep the soil as evenly moist as possible with no or few periods of dry soil, followed by wet soil and back to dry soil. Letting the plant dry out during winter, can kill flower buds. So if your soil does not freeze and it has been dry, water the plant during winter.

* pruning the ends of the stems, where the invisible flower buds reside, can result in no blooms. For example, if BB develops flower buds in July and you prune in March then you would be cutting off the Spring flowers. So if you ever need to prune, wait to do that after the plant has bloomed. However, it is ok to deadhead at any time. And it is ok to cut off dead and dried out stem by late May if these have not leafed out.

* H. macrophylla has inconsistent Spring flower production in cold zones, especially if winter is bad. To make sure one gets Spring bloomage in cold zones, you need to winter protect the plant. This protects the flower buds from early frosts, late frosts and wild gyrating temps during winter. But they do not produce the mophead/lacecap types of blooms in pink-blues, of course. These prev mentioned winter problems have occurred a lot in the past few winters; specially on the last 2-3 years. If you decide to use winter protection, remove it approximately 2 or so weeks after the average date of last frost for your zone. Do a find in the forum for 'winter protection' for more info.

* There are pests that visit while you are looking and eat the flower buds so beware of squirrels, deer and bunnies. They sometimes also eat leaves and new growth on the stems.

* some remontant hydrangeas need a few years to get their act together, produce Summer bloomage and get established but 5 years of age in your garden rules this one out.

* planted out of zone can create issues. BB is advertised as hardy to many cold zones but typically, H. macrophyllas start to have problems with their Spring Flowers at or below Zone 6. BB should be able to produce late blooms around the summer time though. Some of the items listed above however, can interfere with bloomage. Too much fertilizers for instance. Paniculata and arborescens hydrangeas can handle cold weather better and, since they develop flower buds in late Spring, they are not affected bad winters.

We had two horrible winters back to back (2014 and 2015) with last winter being "normal" once more. The two previous winters knocked my B.B. to half its previous size with nary a bloom that I recall. This summer the blooms were not plentiful but the size of the shrub has more than doubled. I did get a second cycle of blooms but nothing to write home about. It does get quite a bit of sun too. Hopefully this winter will be somewhat "nice" and B.B. can put on a show next year.

I'm in.Maine but I purchased them at a local nursery and many places have them growing. Its possible that the ferlizer is an issue. My husband and uses the hose end sprayer fertizers while watering, im wondering if he has been fertility them everytime he uses one for the rest of the gardens. I will talk to him and find out.

That might do it. Hydrangeas do not need the same diet as roses do. Once you fertilize the hydrangeas in the Spring, you can use "weak" fertilizers like coffee grounds, liquid seaweed or liquid fish. These have small amounts of nitrogen and, assuming you do not drink coffee that often, the plants should be fine having any of those thru the growing season. But stop them all at the end of June so the shrubs will go dormant at the proper time and not be in "grow" mode when the early frosts arrive.