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sam_ny

Under cabinet lighting for Ikea cabinets?

9 years ago

We installed Ikea Sektion upper cabinets in our kitchen and bought their Utrusta under-cabinet lights to go along with them. Unfortunately, for direct wire, those lights require a fixture/light box--and we just have some cable coming out of the wall. Also the Ikea jumper cable that we'd have to use to go around/above the stove is big and fat like a computer power cable and we'd like something a little subtler since it'll be visible. So now we're looking for replacement lights that meet the following conditions:

- LED "light bars" in multiple sizes

- linkable

- dimmable

- white (also the Utrusta ones were a cream white)

- look nice surface mounted, even when they're not hidden by cabinet frame lip

- can be direct wired but don't require a fixture/light box

Any recommendations? Any personal experiences with ones that you love? Maybe it's decision fatigue at the end of our reno, but the world of LED lighting on the web seems pretty impenetrable.

Comments (12)

  • 9 years ago

    Are you sure you can't use LED tape? The transformers are pretty small and could probably go in a high cabinet...

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    Check these units from DALS. They are line voltage direct wire and can be linked together.

    http://dalslighting.com/en/products/In+Stock+Products/21/bxenon-120v-stripsb-available-in-2-sizes-3019-3028

    They also carry a very wide range of other LED systems. Most others require transformers which are either plug in type (need a receptacle) or hardwire type. Please be aware that just because the units are low voltage LED that does not mean that you can just use any wire you wish. Check the specs carefully or discuss this with your electrician.

    Graham

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    If something is hardwired it needs a box by code there are tons of LED undercabinet light systems avail

  • 9 years ago

    "If something is hardwired it needs a box by code"

    NO. there are plenty of fixtures that do not require a junction box.

    NEC

    300.15 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, or Fittings — Where Required. A box shall be installed at each outlet and switch point for concealed knob-and-tube wiring.

    Fittings and connectors shall be used only with the specific wiring methods for which they are designed and listed. Where the wiring method is conduit, tubing, Type AC cable, Type MC cable, Type MI cable, nonmetallic-sheathed cable, or other cables, a box or conduit body shall be installed at each conductor splice point, outlet point, switch point, junction point, termination point, or pull point, unless otherwise

    permitted in 300.15(A) through (M).

    (B) Equipment. An integral junction box or wiring compartment as part of approved equipment shall be permitted in lieu of a box.

    (E) Integral Enclosure. A wiring device with integral enclosure identified for the use, having brackets that securely fasten the device to walls or ceilings of conventional onsite frame construction, for use with nonmetallic-sheathed cable, shall be permitted in lieu of a box or conduit body.

    (J) Luminaires. A box or conduit body shall not be required where a luminaire is used as a raceway as permitted in 410.64 and 410.65.

    410.65 Wiring Supplying Luminaires Connected Together. Luminaires designed for end-to-end connection to form a continuous assembly, or luminaires connected together by recognized wiring methods, shall be permitted to contain the conductors of a 2-wire branch circuit, or one multiwire branch circuit, supplying the connected luminaires and need not be listed as a raceway. One additional 2-wire branch circuit separately supplying one or more of the connected luminaires shall also be permitted.

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    Patricia Colwell - My use of the term "Hardwire" was related to light fixtures where the connection is permitted to be made within the fixture and as such no additional device box is required. Looks like those types are recognized under 410.65 according to the posting (above) by Fred S.

    Graham

  • 9 years ago

    Yeah, that's true re. hardwiring not requiring a fixture box. In our case, it's armored cable coming out of the wall, which you see all the time without a box (for example, basically every range hood is installed this way). Some systems require a "junction box" (like this), whereas some just have punch outs that accept the AC.

    Thanks for the advice, Kitchen Abode, acm, and m_gabriel. acm, I'm not sure how the tape would look when not hidden by the lip of a cabinet face.

    Kitchen Abode, we're hoping for LED, not xenon, but I'll explore the site and see what else they have.

    m_gabriel, will look into that outfit as well, although we're hoping for fast turnaround, so I don't know.

    Also:

    Anyone ever used the 4U or 8U series Kichler products? They're more substantial looking so obviously wouldn't minimize them visually. Saw those advertised here.

    In the same vein are the WAC LEDme light bars.

    And then I was in a store last night where they recommended Unilume LED Slimline products.

    And then there's this from Commercial Electric ("Satin" LED light bars), which I saw at HD.

    Not sure about any of those. I'm curious though: for installation where the light/housing will be visible, anyone have any opinions on what would LOOK the nicest? Any general aesthetic advice for what I should be shooting for would be much appreciated.

  • 8 years ago

    sam_ny What did you go with? We are installing our IKEA kitchen now, but are now deciding not to go with the Utrusta system they have.

  • 8 years ago

    Im in the middle of a reno and going to have ikea cabinets installed this month.Could you tell me why you choose not to use Utrusta and what have you chosen in lieu of?

  • 8 years ago
    I am also in the midst of looking at other LED lighting. Electrician thinks ultrusta is hard to install. Looks like WAC and Elco are two options. WAC is about 3x more expensive, so trying to figure out which. Also not sure if I can install a 36” light under the cabinet (if the trim of a 36” upper cabinet is wide enough)
  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    sarah, jerilew, and nancybydesign, my contractor ended up picking up some lights from Lowes in the "Lightify" line made by Osram Sylvania. We got the "lightbars," not the tape I mostly see when I Google it now. They met all the specs and are very decent lights. Only one thing not perfect about them... they have four different color settings that have to be controlled by a separate "gateway" device that's connected to a phone app via wifi (sort of like a smart home device). Unfortunately, I could never get that all to work on my phone, and gave up. Because I never set the color through the app, whenever I turn on the lights, they briefly cycle through all the color settings before landing on the last one (which happens to be the setting I would have chosen anyway). It's sort of annoying, but my kid likes showing it to her friends like it's a disco. Googling just a second ago, the lightbars didn't come up right away and I wonder if they've been discontinued.


    Actually reading Amazon reviews of the Lightify line and gateway device, maybe some caution is advised before purchasing. Outside of the glitch noted above, ours works fine and we're happy with it, but there's apparently a lot of frustration with both the physical installation and smart connectivity of these products.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I just ended up buying WAC under cabinet Duo-AC LED Color Option Light bars. The WAC was about 2x (not 3x) the cost of the Elco and look/feel of good quality. Funny enough, when I priced the WAC lighting vs. the Ikea Utrusta LED under cabinet lighting it was about the same price (WAC slightly cheaper by $50). The WAC didn't have the long cord that was really bothering my electrician on the Ikea undermount. The light bars haven't been installed yet, so I can't say anything else on issues, etc for now. The electrician does seem happy, though.