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Silestone countertop worries after templating, help?

9 years ago

After tons of research, I decided I wanted Silestone countertops for their lack of maintenance, mostly. The color is Stellar Snow - which is a white flecked with varying shades of gray. I went with Home Depot for the project, who subbed in a local stone company for the job. I need the counters raised an inch or so, and decided to have the new counters installed right over the old ones, with the existing edges being trimmed and the fronts removed. (I have my own contractor who will install trim to cover the exposed areas after the new ones are installed).

The contractor who came out approached me as a typical housewife who ordered new counters without knowing anything about them, and continued to talk over my head when I ask questions. Fine, I'm used to it, whatever. I did, however, completely miss out on doing any research on seam placement with quartz. I just assumed that they could do the small seams on the front and back of the sink. When he said there would be two large seams, both terribly visible and placed right over drawers I open regularly, I protested. But he said that with an undermount sink, they no longer do the seams in the middle of the sink because they tend to get broken during transport and install, and can't handle the weight of the sink anyway. (Right.) So they're "not allowed" to do sink seams. I asked if there were any other options for the seams, and he wouldn't give me an absolute "no" or "yes", just kept repeating "you'll barely even see them." Let me repeat, the counters are white. He also kept hammering home the idea that a stretch of counter cannot be any longer than 96". When I pointed out there's no seam in the counter to the right of the stove, he added that that one doesn't matter because there's no cutout.

I gave up and let him finish measuring so I could start googling and asking questions. I called the KD at HD, and she asked me to come in and look at seam examples to "ease my fears" and "once you see my samples of seams you'll see that it will be fine". The job's currently on hold until I figure out what I want to do.

So, I generally got the impression that he was pushing and pushing to get me to leave him alone and agree to what he wanted, which was what made me start investigating further, and seeing all the seam nightmares here. I felt this is a rushed job with little care as to how the final product will look, and they're only interested in getting in and out.

So, any advice on the best way to proceed, or other advice on installation I may be overlooking?

I've included (rather poor, sorry) pics of the kitchen, as well as a quick sketch I made when calculating the square feet (don't laugh). Also I can't figure out how

Comments (21)

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I will merely say that a neighbor of mine used HD for corian countertops (they always contract countertops out, no matter the material--they're just brokers), and had a problem with the installation, and then went through absolute hell with the installer refusing to fix the problem and HD saying it was no concern of theirs.

    I would strongly suggest going direct to a fabricator instead of through HD. You gain nothing from using them.

    Some HD stores are fine; others definitely are not, but you have no way to know unless you know folks who have used your store and their chosen fabricator before.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Can you mark/clarify where he says the seams will need to be? That will likely help the countertop gurus.

    FWIW, we used IKEA for Caesarstone countertops. The templater initially said there would be two seams. I pressed the issue and found that IKEA pricing is based on the easiest possible installation, which would include a seam at any corner. I could (and did) opt to pay for the additional square footage needed to not have seams. Maybe that's a possibility for you?

  • 9 years ago

    writersblock - thank you. I would agree, but with this fabricator, all their poor reviews are from people who went to them directly. All the 5 star reviews were from people who went through Home Depot. So I'm a little more at ease regarding that issue (at least with this local store). Also, I already paid. So there's that. :/

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oh, I'm not saying you should go direct to their fabricator, far from it, but even in my little town we have more than one place that does quartz. Sorry I wasn't clear.

    But if you can't get your money back, I guess you have to go with it.

    ETA Have you gone to HD and tried? I suspect that if you can give them an idea that you are likely to be a very difficult client, they might.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    ***IGNORE THIS PHOTO, I'VE UPLOADED A CORRECTED ONE BELOW*** (can't delete a photo from an existing comment...original comment text below)


    I did get an email back from the fabricator saying: "It is never a good idea to
    place a seam too close to a sink, as sinks are the most highly trafficked place
    in a kitchen. If the seam on your sink counter is moved, additional fees would
    be incurred due to the large size of that countertop, and the chance of that
    large countertop breaking in transport, during installation, or later on down
    the road increases. My recommendation is to leave the seams as they are. They
    are currently placed strategically to avoid breakage of the countertops as your
    home and cabinets settle over time. All foundations and cabinets shift over
    time as the ground beneath settles, and having seams placed on either side of
    the dishwasher and sink help alleviate pressure on the stone during that
    process. If at any point this happens to your countertops, you simply call
    Stoneworks to come out and reset the seam, just like during the first
    installation! However, if we removed or moved the seams, during that same
    settling process the stone can crack and break, especially in those high
    traffic areas like dishwashers and sinks."

  • 9 years ago

    The idea that it would break in transport or during installation because of size seems bogus to me. If they properly secure the piece and have the right number of workers moving it (mine required 3 instead of the typical 2, for 104 inches) that shouldn't be an issue. I would be interested to hear what some of the knowledgeable countertop folks here have to say about cracking over time because of settling. I would think that if it were leveled, shimmed, etc appropriately from the start that this wouldn't be an issue either, but I'm definitely no expert.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My quartz went in yesterday with almost same layout except mine are longer runs and my cooktop and sink are flipped from yours. We did a seam at cooktop (they cut on site) and another seam to the right side of the corner straight vs angled (where the number 14" dimension is notated on your drawing). The contractor had ordered jumbo slabs so we got away with only two seams.

  • 9 years ago

    I have a tabletop in Silestone that I ordered through my local HD. Same deal, they gave the job to a small local company. It went smoothly enough, though I didn't like that there was a delay of a few days every time communication had to be relayed through HD. Up front, I only had to pay for the measuring visit ($100 or so) until the job was next in their queue, then they phoned me for full payment. Maybe you haven't paid in full yet and can shop elsewhere? In my case, the end result is what I expected which is good but not perfect, but the price of Silestone is rock bottom compared to other similar looking products so I kind of expected flaw or two. Nothing anyone else would notice.

    When they were in for the table top, I asked about counters and because we'll be replacing ours in a few months. The rep said they would not do diagonal seams because it uses too much material. The guy was not the sharpest tack so I didn't push the "what if I pay more for it" angle, figuring I'd cross that bridge later if I end up ordering from them again. Long story to say, though I know they're not popular, I think mitred corner seams like the red lines in your drawing make the most sense visually, though I don't know anything about structural advantages/disadvantages. Especially if they might be noticeable, I'd want the mitre. I personally don't like straight seams that break up a run. Maybe it's from a few decades working in picture framing, mitres just seem the most logical.

  • PRO
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Jen Mark:

    Sorry, but there's no such thing as a 150" piece of estone, not even a jumbo. Were you my customer, you'd get what, where, when, and why, and I'd keep how and who.

    The big fat red lines are wrong. I'd probably give you a french miter at the short end, but I haven't taken the time to figure yield.

  • 9 years ago

    The big fat red lines are the fabricators.

  • 9 years ago

    Sorry, I've corrected the drawing to show the correct area where the seams are - they're actually not diagonal but are straight (which is worse looking IMO). The actual seam placement is highlighted.


  • 9 years ago

    Is there any possibility of just one seam? Joseph mentioned that because of length you would need a seam, but I wonder if you can get away with only one. I would guess you'll spend the most time between the sink and range for prep, so I'd try hard not to have a seam there. Unless you're confident that their seams will be very inconspicuous.

  • 9 years ago

    jesslake: You were correct - I was wrong about the diagonal seams. I got the paperwork back from them and saw they are actually vertical - sorry for my mistake!

    kathryn p: this is the response I got from them: ". My recommendation is to
    leave the seams as they are. They are currently placed strategically to avoid
    breakage of the countertops as your home and cabinets settle over time. All
    foundations and cabinets shift over time as the ground beneath settles, and
    having seams placed on either side of the dishwasher and sink help alleviate
    pressure on the stone during that process. If at any point this happens to your
    countertops, you simply call Stoneworks to come out and reset the seam, just
    like during the first installation! However, if we removed or moved the seams,
    during that same settling process the stone can crack and break, especially in
    those high traffic areas like dishwashers and sinks."

    So they kinda make it sound like if I don't use their seam recommendation, then they won't come back out to "reset the seam".

  • 9 years ago

    Are they using remnants or full slabs?

  • 9 years ago

    Full slabs as far as I can tell.

  • 9 years ago

    Jen Mark, the seams in my Cambria counters are as shown in your drawing. I have a closeup somewhere, but not on the computer I'm using now.

    Can you see the seam? I really have to look for it in real life. If your fabricators do a good job, the seam should be almost invisible.

    J thanked AnnKH
  • 9 years ago

    With two slabs, can't they get away with only one seam? I'm too lazy to do the math.

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    These guys are trying to use up remnants, guaranteed, because there is no way you need two seams in your sink top. What a bunch of hokum about settling. Install your cabinets with EZ Cabinet Levelers and you raise the cabinets and tops simultaneously if there is any settling. I confirmed that with the inventor at the KBIS show two days ago. Plus, this is estone, not granite. It flexes a bit without breaking.

  • 9 years ago

    Well if they are using remnants and they are the cheapest, then that explains it. Were they the cheapest?

  • 9 years ago

    AnnKH - nope - can't see a seam at all! That does ease my fears a bit.


    Joseph Corlett - see, that's the feeling I got from them when they were explaining it. So frustrating. And my cabinets are already installed, I'm not doing anything to the existing ones, just adding new counters on top of the old ones.


    smm5525 - I went with Home Depot. No idea if they were the cheapest.