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Zz plant with wrinkled stems?

9 years ago

Just noticed two of the older stems on my zz plant are wrinkled. The stalks are firm, and there are no yellow leaves. I've had the plant since March, and have only watered it twice and it's in Al's gritty mix (hey Al). Could this be a symptom of over/under watering or something else?


Comments (9)

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You've only watered a plant in fast draining highly aerated soil twice in two months? May I ask why?

  • 8 years ago

    The ZZ plant does not need a lot of water. When my plant did this, I stopped watering and let the soil get totally dried out and the wrinkling went away.

  • 8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Seeing as the ZZ plant stores water in its rhizomes and stems to help tolerate drought conditions (or so I've read), and the poster had barely watered the plant when using a soil that does not hold much water, wouldn't the wrinkled stems be far more likely to indicate that the plant is using up its stored water in response to under watering?

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago


    Hello Mobizo,

    did you workout what was the problem on your Gem? Im having the same issue, not sure about too much or not enough water....

    thx!

  • 5 years ago

    im having the same issues. not aire if its under or over watering. i dont think i water it much tho

  • 5 years ago

    If this occurs (with ZZs) when you can still detect moisture deep in the pot with a "tell", you're very likely over-watering or one of the damping-off fungaluglies are at work rotting roots. If it doesn't regain turgidity and plump up within a day after-watering, serious damage to roots has likely occurred due to a prolonged period of dry soul and root desiccation. A high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution can also cause the symptoms shown.

    Using a 'tell'

    Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant.

    Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor.

    In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

    Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

    One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

    Al

  • 11 months ago

    This is due to under watering.

  • 11 months ago

    Old post, I know, but it should be said that we cannot know the culprit is under-watering. There are several cultural influences that limit the root system's ability to take up water, among them of course is under-watering, but over-watering, soil compaction (reduces oxygen supply to roots), and a high level of dissolved solids (salts, from tapwater and fertilizer solutions) can all work independently or collectively to limit water uptake. Low light levels, cool temps, high humidity levels are potential influences that can limit water uptake and even cause nutritional problems because they can limit the amount of water in the nutrient stream, especially calcium.