Thank you, Ron. That makes sense on the Korean. I got a good feeling when I saw it, but I think everyone thought it was too sick or did not know what it was. Just read the planting thread about circling roots. Very helpful advice!
So on the Fordham, you are saying plant and use no stake at all. Even if it flops over? I also got two hinokis, a verdoni and snowkist, but they look to be pretty straightforward. Thanks again for the advice and warm welcome! Jeff

You can stake it on planting for stability so that the rootball has time to settle in without movement. You should be able to remove the stake next spring. Nice acquisitions. The curving trunk on the first one looks nice. I like the Pinus cembra as well and last one is superb!

Hi Jeffery. What zone are you in?

Glad to know your getting into dwarf conifers. Beware, the addiction is unstoppable once it starts. Don't forget to look into mini's as well if you get short on space.

Photo 1 - Yes, Pinus parviflora 'Al Fordham'. Will probably grow around 6" a year. I'd take off the stake and let it do it's thing. I think parviflora's look best in their sculptural form but if you like it straight, stake away. =)

Photo 2 - Pinus cembra 'Chalet'. Will probably grow 6-10" a year. I would remove one of the leaders. It will look fine in a year or two.

Photo 3 - Abies koreana 'Green Carpet'. Will probably grow 3-6" a year. This one is a cool mounding spreader. It looks pretty big for that tiny pot and could be pretty root bound. If so you'll want to gently tease out the roots before planting and eliminate any encircling roots that may cause girdling in the future.

No ferts or special treatment.

It's best to search for info and refer to the plants with their actual names like Pinus parviflora rather than Japanese white pine. You'll turn up better more accurate info. =)

For size, go off of the annual growth rate rather than ultimate/mature size as this tends to be misleading in my opinion. They keep growing until they die and won't reach a certain height then stop like some info can confuse people with. Of course growth rate can be quite variable depending on many factors, but just extrapolate off of the annual growth rate and you should get a general idea of how big a tree will be in so many years. They tend to pick up steam after they have been in the ground a few years and the root system has had time to get established.

Happy conifer hunting. Get more!

Sorry if you already knew about the size thing =)

Thanks for the great info, Garen! I am also in 6a. - Allentown, PA. Much appreciated! Any idea what is a reasonable breadth to give the Pinus parviflora from foundation. I was actually thinking on top of my rock garden in front of a 3' high stone wall. Also, I will try to brush up on my latin. Thanks again!

what the house siding.. will it need paint.. will windows need washing .... imo .. they should be 5 to 10 feet from the house ... foundation plantings are planted to hide the foundation.. not on the foundation ...

conifers are trees.. as such.... never really stop growing ... its all about annual growth rate .. time decades ... if it grows a foot per year.. in 10 years it will be 10 feet.. in 30 years.. 30 feet ...

so look now.. at your first pic.. how much did the leader grow??? ... 8 inches??? ... then there is your annual growth rate.. but for over ferting in a pot ... and a year or two of reduced growth due to transplant stresses ...

the one leaning over.. many of us would have paid extra for such drama .. dont go all ... 'it has to be upright and perfect' on us ... the weirder the better ... for many of us ...

its gtetting kind of late for proper planting .. which means bare rooting them as they look like they have been in pots too long ...this should be done in Dormancy ... else you might stress them so much all the leaves fall off... and then that is a big problem ...

what is your soil ...

in my sand.. i could sink pot and all ... and it would drain ... and then i would do the root surgery in september or so ... when nights are trending toward cold ...

the problem is.. in 4 or 6 weeks.. its going to be very hot ... but the plants wont be settled in yet ...

it would be a different game.. if these were one foot babes ..

so to HOLD THEM OVER DURING SUMMER ... if your soil drains ... just bury the pot ... this actually gives you the option to call a redo on siting by fall ...

the key in holding things.. is that the pots keep the roots cool ... and black pots in hot sun get.. well.. hot ...

see link on proper planting [no amends, no fert].. proper mulching.. proper watering ... and how to deal with non draining soil.. aka clay ...

the best way to start ... would be by perking a hole ... to find out how y9our soil drains ...

i didnt read all the replies ... hope i added something ...

ken

Wow. Thanks, Ken! Very helpful. The soil is very well draining. It's on an upper patio of a rock garden and full of sand and gravel where pavers were set. Made pulling stumps a bit easier. I may have misspoke about foundation. It's not really a foundation. Just a structure. So there is no maintenance. This is sort of what I'm looking at. If the pinus parviflora continues its mostly upright growth. Gives it about 4 feet total breadth. This 7 pm. We are looking due south so gets full overhead sun all summer slightly less in winter. Thank you all. I don't want to mess this up.

Remember annual growth rates are just guides and can vary depending on conditions and location. All of these can be pruned to control size, but that is an ongoing project so best to site where that is not necessary. Pruning for aesthetics is another matter!