I would wait to plant until the trees are removed to see how much sun you have then. Shrubs are a long term investment, and you want to plant for the long term rather than the current conditions which you anticipate will change in less than a year. Before taking down all the trees, if you haven't already, weigh the positives such as cooling the house or slowing winds or blocking unsightly views against the positives of more sun unless they are unhealthy. In the short term, annuals, either in pots or in the ground will give you something to look at for this season. Apologies if you have already considered all this.

You can start planning now, however. For now, a photo of the back of the house would help us to judge the space for heights of windows, location of other considerations such as patios, paths, doors, and heat pumps, and bed depth if there is currently a bed in place.

Currently this is a really wide open question. Can you give us more info on what your goals are? Do you enjoy garden work? Do you want flowers, or winter interest, or native shrubs or plants for wildlife? Is someone allergic to or terrified by bees? Do you have pets or little kids so you want to avoid materials that are both attractive to kids and toxic? Is this a full time residence or should we be looking at plants that can be ignored a far amount?

What is the soil like? Moisture?

If there isn't a bed there now, you can start removing the grass or whatever is there and doing soil prep for the bed so that it is ready to plant when you are ready to do the work.

I would also suggest that as you go places in your area keep an eye out for shrubs that appeal to you and look healthy. Take photos to post here or on the name that plant forum to get IDs.

We have a blank slate to work with. We bought a fixer upper and now that the interior work is complete, it's time to tackle the outside.

We get morning sun, by 2:30-3 pm the sun has passed and cast its shadow over the back. Once the trees are cut back, we'll get a bit more direct sunlight but still have to contend with afternoon shade.

The soil is sandy and moist. We have a high water table. It gets a bit boggy after a hard rain.

I have other beds I'm working on, those are filled with typical NE rugged coastal plants and shrubs: rosa rugosa, Montauks, scotch broom, Shastas, Rose of Sharon, lilacs, grasses, etc. We also have the beginning of a vegetable and herb garden on the side, which is not visible to the street.

Gardening is my therapy, so I'm not afraid of maintenance.

My husband wants to plant arborvitaes next to the kitchen door, I'm thinking upright junipers (rocket) because they fare better in shade (and who doesn't love juniper berries?). I really prefer to not use rhododendrons and azaleas but my options may be limited.

Next year a patio will be installed and if I have my way, an outdoor shower to the left of the propane tank (and build housing around the tank to cover it).

What do you think? I'm drawing a blank.

Thank you for responding!

Where will the patio be, outside the kitchen door or where the chairs currently are? I would hold off on actually planting in the area of the future patio until you have it installed. Also, since the area is damp, be very sure that the patio has a slight slope away from the house to avoid having water issues.

Does boggy mean you have standing water for a while after a rain?

Some general comments:

6 hours of sun is considered full sun, so you have quite a range of choice. Plan on using several of each of whatever you choose so it isn't too much of a hodgepodge. Repetition or groups will look more planned and cohesive.

I really don't like having tall shrubs flanking a door since as they grow they need trimming back and the height isn't welcoming - it makes an entrance feel dark or crowded. Let there be at least 3' between the expected shrub width and the steps which you can fill in with perennials or raised large pots of annuals. I also can't imagine that you want to block the windows to the left of the back door since architecturally it would look funny along with blocking light and view; it just doesn't look like you have enough room to either side of the door to have something with height.

What is to the right of the photo? Another door, to the garage or storage? Seeing the entire area will help plans, unless you just want a list of shrubs.

Are you interested in mixing in perennials or trellised vines here also? Winter interest? Flowers? Do you like reddish or gold foliage? Would you consider some smaller flowering trees set a bit further from the house such as dogwood or Stewartia?

What is on the wall to the left of the back door? Is it something that you will want access to such as a spigot or something that needs consideration with regard to its effects on plants such as a drier vent?

Plan on leaving at a minimum a foot of unplanted space between the expected size of the plants and the house so siding can dry and you can get in to do maintenance. So with a 6' expected width plant, leave at least 4 feet between the planting hole and the house. (1/2 of 6' + 1 foot) Also, this avoids the rain shadow created by the eaves of the house. Missouri Botanical Garden is a better source of size info than the plant tags IME and the link is to their search page. This will mean that the garden will look sparse for a few years, but this can be filled in with annuals or perennials for a while. Better than having to prune hard every year or dig out plants in 5 years. I can add a link to one of my shrub borders when planted and now to see how fast things fill in if you would like.

A few plants that come to mind for shady damp areas (but I will keep thinking):

You might check out Daphne x transatlantic 'Summer Ice' if you like scent. It needs reasonable drainage, but planting it on a slight mound might do the trick. Delicately variegated evergreen foliage and blooms from April to hard freeze here. The flowers aren't knock-your-socks-off, but it's a lovely plant and did fine for me in mostly shade.

Lindera benzoin, spicebush. Butterfly host, flowers a yellow haze in very early spring, and stunning gold fall color. It's large though, 8' tallx 6' wide for me, so might be better at a corner without windows or along the property bounds.

Mountain Laurel, Kalmia latifolia. Late spring flowers, evergreen. It would like reasonable drainage also but moist is fine, just not soggy.

Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) and mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata). choose ones that can bloom on new wood such as Bloomstruck and Tuff Stuff. I think Claire has Blue Billow and she is on the Cape. These would appreciate afternoon shade, starting midday or thereabouts. Oak leaf hydrangea has spring flowers and fall color and large dramatic leaves. Fine in all but full shade I think.

One of the smaller Clethra such as Sixteen Candles or Hummingbird for late summer bloom and gold fall color. Not really a star plant, but can add to a mixed border. Same with Itea virginica (summersweet). Late summer bloom and red fall color, but not a star.

There are summer blooming deciduous rhodies and azaleas that look quite different from the typical. Lovely scent and many have good fall color. Rhododendron viscosum, swamp azalea will grow in periodic standing water, but others prefer typical moist well-drained soil.

If you want winter interest, some of the smaller red-twigged dogwoods would work here and would look nice with the house color. Needs some sun, but some shade is fine.

There are viburnums that will work here, with flowers, some with berries, most with nice fall color. Size varies a lot with cultivar.

Babs has given you some excellent suggestions to work with and she knows her plants!! All I would add is confirmation that you do not want tall growing evergreens right next to the door. They do become large and intimidating as the years go by. I would also add that if you cannot dissuade hubby from this plan, then go with a short variety of arborvitae. Junipers are NOT the least bit shade tolerant - they are full sun plants. They will also not be appreciative of any wet soil conditions - hot and dry is their preference, whereas the arbs will tolerate both some degree of shade and moister soils.

One more thought - I'd rethink the location of the outdoor shower. Adding additional moisture right next to the house and the propane tank in an area that is already poorly drained sounds like a potential problem in the making as far as moisture damage to the house or leakage at foundation cracks or seams if there are any.