I'll try and simplify this so that you can decide wherther you want to work a little harder each time you repair a scratch or work extra hard when and if you decide to properly refinish floor when some is replaced. If the wax reache's wood,some will remain after floors are sanded. Floor finish will not stick to wax but instead it will make "fish eyes",ruining the finish. My recommendation is buy some MinWax Fast Drying Polyurethane (yes I know you hat poly but I don't) (: one each (they are reusable) 3M Scotch-Brite sanding pads maroon 7447/white 7445 and white 7448. You might wear stretch painters gloves. Wipe area with minerail spirits(aka paint thinner) on a cotton diaper,cotton t-shirt type cloth then wipe dry. Wrap maroon pad around index finger and lightly sand in direction of scratch. Quick wet wipe then dry wipe. Cut white pad into 4 to 8 pieces. Pour an oz or two of poly in a suitable container. Do not return unused poly to can. Dip white pad in poly then apply poly to scratch in circular motion going over scratch at least half dozen times,dipping in poly if needed to keep surface wet. Set a dineing chair or other barricade over spot until dry. Pratice make's perfect so you will get better results as you do more areas. You can do spots over after a few days or a month if you like. The 7448 ultra fine will result in a little glossier when dry and all 3 grits will dull dry finish if desired. Unlike if wax was used,these repairs will not require special attention when floors are sanded for complete refinish. Good luck,I hope you are happy with the results.

Here's a link to get you started.

There is a huge difference between a wax finish and a waxed finish (wax used as a polish). Wax alone as a finish is the closest thing to no finish at all -- negligible protection against water, water vapor, solvents and heat. For example, how do you plan to clean the floors if you (or the dog) drop food, spill water, or track in mud? Do not confuse beading up water (surface tension) with water exclusion.

It does make the surface slightly slipperier so it can reduce (but not eliminate abrasions). If you get a scratch on a finish, you scratch the finish. If you get a scratch on a waxed floor, it may penetrate the wood and tear the fibers.

Further, wax will inhibit many finishes from adhering, should you decide that the wax is not working. You'll have to make sure it all out of the wood and its pores and open grain. This would mean an aggressive overall sanding.

There are three reasons you apply a finish to wood:

* to protect (water, soiling, abrasion, solvents)

* to provide a cleanable surface

* to enhance the look

Wax gets one of three, IMHO.

Thanks everyone.

I'm not worried about wear and tear on the wood fibers - that's already done. I want to be able to buff out finish scratches as easily as possible, especially on the stairs. I'll be using a dark stain again. The current poly/plastic makes the dog scratches white. I don't mind natural looking scratches if they don't detract too much from the uniformity of the floor. The texture already looks rustic.

The oil in the macwoods article is starting to look like a good option, although I have to take another look at the drying times and find an alternative place to stay.