In case specifics are desired (or someone wants to ask me in 6 months if this worked) I am:

• Letting my cherry tomatoes (black cherry, sweet millions) have 6 stems (two per stake, 3 stakes), 5gal bucket. One or two of those suckers have developed adventitous roots already and the rest are coming off the main stem.

• Letting my 'heirloom' varieties (brandywine, cherokee
  purple) have 2 stems (one main, one sucker), #7 nursery pot, 15gal grow
  bag. The sucker on each is in contact with the ground and have formed adventitious roots already.

• Letting my Big Beef have 3 stems. One sucker is in contact with the ground and have developed adventitious roots, the other is barely in contact with the ground, and I doubt it will form more than a couple (roots), if any at all.

We'll see how well this goes. Ask me again in 4 months and we'll see.

Planting very deep isn't particularly recommended from what I've read (although kind of deep is probably supposed to be great), but planting wide sure is recommended. I've experimenting with very deep plants, though. While I don't think it hurts, it doesn't seem to provide that much benefit compared to plants that weren't deep.

Just because tomatoes can grow roots all along the stem doesn't necessarily mean that they will grow roots on a particular spot where you want roots (they might, though). If I remember right, the tomatoes I planted deep didn't have roots all along the stem when I examined them later, although they did have roots on parts of the stem. I believe planting them wide should result in more roots.

I don't think it can hurt, but I wouldn't expect a big positive impact either. Especially in a container where the plant is going to fill it with roots anyway. I think the plant will get all the water and nutrients it needs as long as they are available in your container mix. Planting deep gives the plants deep roots early and lets it develop its shallow roots over time... this is helpful when the soil surface starts to dry out on a hot day, the plant already has those nice deep roots to access the moisture deeper in your pot. But the only way to know for sure is to test it!

Well, I'm trying it! Unfortunately I have no Control, and I don't bother with garden journals.

Let us know how it turns out. I'm also curious how cuttings from those suckers and how cuttings of suckers of suckers of suckers compare.

So far when I looked at the rootbakk from the sucker I rooted, they look the same as if they developed from one main root.
I already have 3 flower clusters on the BC and SM's, 8-week olds transplanted 1st week of May, so I got them started *super* early. The SM has 1cm fruits already, with about a dozen set, big beef about 3 set. Brandywine and Cherokee Purple are still making flowers (slowpokes!)

So update:

• The amount of tomatoes was about the same as the year prior
• No significant difference in how 'soon' they arrived
• There were some roots matted at the bottom/sides, but nothing significant, typical quantity.
• There was no well defined rootball, they seemed to be "evenly" distributed through the whole container
• It was easier to clean the dirt off the rootball to "freshen" the container since the roots were evenly distributed throughout
• The well-defined thick stem only went down about 2", even though the "stem" started at the bottom of the container on its side
• Watering was just as easy as when planting at the top, but the containers dried out a little more slowly until the full height of the summer kicked in and I had to water once or twice daily.
• It buys maybe 6" of "growing height" than if I planted them at the top. I start my own seeds and the plants are about 12-16" tall (table to tip) when they go into the dirt.

I did it again this year.

I don't know who "they" are, but there's a lot of debate about pruning indeterminate tomatoes.

A big reason, however, to take off foliage low on the plant is to reduce contact of leaves, which are more permeable to fungal pathogens, with the ground and any pathogens that may splash up from the ground. Fungal diseases take hold most often in the lowest leaves both because they're older leaves that are more susceptible to infection and more exposed to fungal organisms from being closer to the soil. This has nothing to do with suckers.

"Suckers" on indeterminate plants are just new branches. Of course the low suckers will eventually produce flowers and fruit. There is no biological mechanism which would prevent them from acting like any other branches. Whether you want more or fewer branches depends on your goals, garden space, growing conditions, etc. Anyone who offers you absolutist advice on pruning or not pruning without knowing the facts about your goals, garden setup, and disease and pest pressures is talking out their you-know-what. But saying pruning is always a myth that "they", whoever "they" are, are trying to push for no reason is also incorrect. Some conditions and goals do benefit from pruning.