the very obvious from your quotes are that you are being grossly oversized on the furnaces. You don't need more than a 60 KBTU high eff 95%+ furnace. The way your family uses AC, I would stick with a 2 1/2 ton with full cooling BTUs 15 SEER rated. If talking brands, I would stay with AmStd or 2nd choice Bryant, both furnace and AC properly sized.

No 80% eff furnaces.

IMO

If your system is still functional and you only intend to be in the house 5-6 years, I'd leave it alone. If and when it dies on you, by all means replace it but it'll probably last you another 5 years. Any maintenance and repairs should be a lot less than $7000!

disagree with above post...OP says system is aged...80% eff furnace existing...make the upgrade now and enjoy the operational savings and comfort...

IMO

If I had the serial number, I could pinpoint age...but I suspect over 30 yrs old...110 BTU output at 80% efficiency....typically oversized for that era...

IMO

Tigerdunes the S/N# is G12Q3-110 2, I believe it was installed when this home was built in 1976 ! AC unit is a bit newer S/N# 5188C01950 - 1988 ??

I had one of the big HVAC "mechanical contractors" bid this job, a Trane dealer. He walked through the home with a laser measure and laptop; he size the hardware like you did; 60K BTU furnace and 2.5 ton AC.

Any idea how much of a savings with properly sized equipment ?

Is there a good reason why so many over sized the equipment ?

that's the model number you listed, not ser number of furnace....ser number should give you the date of manufacture, last two digits....some dealers just like to oversize, most due to ignorance or laziness..,hard to say on AC, I would guesstimate a minimum of 25%...on heating you would go from 78% to 95% efficiency...that does not take in consideration though of going from 110 KBTU to 60 KBTU...I would think close to 50% in operating savings on heating alone.

IMO

I found the S/N #: 5876 F 02427

tigerdunes, would the lower BTU unit also have a lower purchase price ?

that would be 1976, at least 40 plus yrs old...there should be some small savings involved in going down in furnace size, mainly from heat exchanger, blower motor, etc but don't expect anything big...keep in mind you will pay more for a 15 SEER AC over a 13 SEER...I thought 13 SEER models had been discontinued...you do want R-410 refrigerant and matching evap coil...

IMO

Northern states still allow 13 SEER systems, in the south the minimum is 14 SEER. Why this mixed standard is allowed does not make sense.

If your old equipment made it to the day you put your house up for sale, the buyer is going want to negotiate some money off the sales price. I suggest do your homeowner now and plan for a replacement in the fall when things slow down for HVAC contractors.

Tigerdunes, you don't care for the Rheem product line ?

tigerdunes I got an account statement from my gas supplier for year 2017. My total gas bill was $758.00, total usage was 70.8.

Thank you for your responses to my post !

my only other gas appliance is a 40 gal. hot water heater.

Tigerdunes,
You had earlier written that you recommend R410-A refrigerant and the Bryant line of hardware. In the literature that I received from contractors, it looks like Bryant uses only Puron refrigerant. Is it just as good as R410-A ? Any disadvantages to Puron ?
Thanks !

not to worry, Puron and R-410 refrigerant are the same...

I understand the problem with horizontal flue gas pipes in place of the current chimney. Have you and your contractors eliminated the possibility of using the existing chimney with a kit for that application? It likely won't work if your chimney is partially exposed. it might work if the chimney is totally enclosed by the structure until it breaks the roof level.

In some situations and certain circles Puron, R410a and even Freon are the same thing.

Freon will live on in infamy thru the lips of everyone for the foreseeable future.

Congratulations to Dupont and now Chemours Company....

If you called a cola a coke... what would that make pepsi or dr. pepper?

Puron is the registered trade mark name of R-410A. It is always the same thing. Freon is the registered trade mark name of R-12, R-13B1, R-22, R-502, and R-503. R-22 is the refrigerant that has been used in residential HVAC equipment. Freon and Puron are chemically different and can't be mixed.

ionized_gw, My chimney/flue is totally enclosed until it breaks the roof level and is also used by the hot water heater. Some contractors have told me that it would be necessary to line the flue to eliminate the possibility of condensation as those gasses pass through an ice cold attic in the winter. No mention of any kit.

If you get a condensing furnace, I am not sure that relining the way your contractors are describing it is even sufficient. Sometimes that means putting ceramic in previously unlined brick chimneys. Sometimes that means stainless pipe (maybe insulated) as an added flue. There are kits that put concentric, or perhaps individual, plastic pipes up your existing chimney for use with new condensing furnaces and boilers. They are pretty simple to install from what I've seen. The kits have concentric, flexible plastic pipe that is supported by built-in spiders touching the existing flue walls. You can put the intake and flue on separate locations, but I think that care is needed to be sure that wind won't affect overall pressure too much.

If the water heater uses the same flue it is problematic. Of course you can't share a plastic flue with a non condensing water heater. The gas is too hot. I don't know the rules for shared flues for condensing equipment either. If this were my home and I faced that plastic flue placement problem, I'd look into this detail. Using your existing flue for an existing gas, low efficiency water heater only is probably going to be problematic in itself because it will be too big for the appliance and cause condensation in cold weather. Google will be your friend here, but others on this board may know the detail as well.

"If you called a cola a coke... what would that make pepsi or dr. pepper?"

Yes.

Freon as a brand... click on picture to enlarge it to read it.

Want to provide an update to this post. I had my new system installed about 3 weeks ago.

I went with a Trane System:

FURNACE: Model# S9V2B060U3VSAAA

COIL: Model# 4PXCBU42BS3HAAA

AC: Model # 4TTR6030J1000AA

HUMIDIFIER : Model # THUMD200ABM00B

AIR CLEANER : Aprilaire Model # 2410

THERMOSTAT: Model # XL824

My total cost after utility rebates is going to be $6,950.00. I'm sure that there will be a noticeable difference in heating and electric bills over the next 12 months. Tigerdunes, with all the advice that you gave me I'm confident that I made a good choice on the selections above. Thank you again for your help !

a heck of a nice system with very good pricing as well. One thing. Did they install new refrigerant line set or reuse old?

TD

Have you checked to see if there is enough clearance between the air cleaner and the wall for you to change the filter? The space seems too small.

They didn't install a condensate trap. I would recommend the clear EZ Trap type which are easy to clean. I would also recommend installing the EZ Trap float switch. This will shut down the furnace in the event the condensate line is clogged and prevent water damage in the basement.

agree with Mike's recommendation about the condensate trap and float switch...

TD

Tigerdunes, they installed a new line set and routed the two PVC pipes along side of it. The AC condenser was bracketed to the side of the house.

Mike, they extended the bottom duct to allow enough clearance for easy filter changes.

I will look into the condensate trap and float switch.

You can expect to pay for the trap and switch. Should have been included at your install. cost relatively cheap. Check back with your dealer this week. A great system. You should see some good savings on heating both efficiency and being sized correctly.

TD

^^^ Your spam is getting really old. I wish the moderators would block you.