Looks like they correctly followed your direction. Windows often come with jambs built for 2x4 walls, and "extension jambs" for thicker walls are either bought from the window factory or your trim supplier. Its typical for a "notch" as its near impossible to have a flush fit built in the field for a reasonable price.

Its either wood or drywall jams.

No that doesn't look right. I did the top of most of my windows differently, (putting a hatband tying all windows and doors together). The first picture shows one of my windows with the same header as yours. The second pic shows the hatband but shows the sill better.

Are the windows flush on the exterior with the exterior walls? That might account for such a difference.

BTW: These are PGT windows. Brand new construction.

Also a 1 x 3 side piece is too narrow. Minimum should be 1 x 4. I used 1 x 6 on my windows, 1 x 4 for the sill and 1 x 4 for the thingy under the sill. The hat band (header) is also 1 x 6.

Later I will try and find pics of my windows upstairs from the outside

I think make them wider. The middle picture really feels like the side trim is too narrow to me.

I don't think they need to be wider. Here is a picture of my windows before drywall, etc. Studs are 2 x 6.

The trim should be consistent as possible across all windows in the house. Do not make the side trim larger to match the trim between windows.

If I understand your intent correctly, you're going for a Craftsman look and feel. Here's a link to a great resource for interior trim in Craftsman style:

https://windsorone.com/products/moldings/classical-craftsman/

Charles, the problem is shown in the OP's second picture.

Holy hardware, cpartist! I hope you bought stock in Simpson.

We put the stool in first, then the vertical pieces sat on top. We had to use 2x8 material for the stools at the 2x6 walls & 2x12 material for the stools at the basement windows.

@suru11 Looks great but your windows weren't built with jambs. Different issue that the OP cannot duplicate. OP your "as built" headers are a little shorter than your example at the top of post. @Tim, thanks for the link.

That does not look right at all for the 2nd and 3rd photos, and then your 2nd set of photos. There is no reason for such an elaborate trim design.

I disagree with cpartist, no surprise. 3" window trim looks great in my opinion.

The squared off look seems to be really popular at the moment. Had a debate with the builder about what a "craftsman" is...

We really love moulding and like a more traditional style. Thanks @Charles Ross Homes for the link, we like something with a little more detail like https://windsorone.com/ideas/craftsman-style-door/

Holy hardware, cpartist! I hope you bought stock in Simpson.

LOL Jeffrey. That happens to be one of the few things they didn't do wrong with my build. Let's just say that if Irma had hit our area like it was originally supposed to, my house wasn't going to blow away.

BTW, that "thingy under the sill" is called the "apron."

Charles, I'm over 60. I'm allowed to have a senior moment. LOL.

I disagree with cpartist, no surprise. 3" window trim looks great in my opinion.

The OP wants a craftsman window trim. Wider trim was more common for craftsman windows back in the day. The narrow trim is more of what they do nowadays. Minimum trim width back then probably was about 4". A true 4"

The OP put in a 1 x 3 which is NOT 3". It's 2 1/2" wide. My 1 x 6 is 5 1/2" wide.

Sam that look would have been more prevalent in higher end houses. I love that look too.

This may be a dumb question, but why did you need jamb extensions on your windows if this is new construction? I always thought a jamb extension was used on retro-fit windows to fit in between the window and the existing drywall.

Windows standard jamb depth (without a special order) is 4 9/16" (some are 2 3/4" or 3 1/4" in vinyl or aluminum). 2 x 6 construction requires a 6 9/16" jamp depth, hence the jamb extension.

Your builder ordered the wrong windows because getting ones with jamb extensions would have cost more.

First check with the window manufacturer to find out the available jamb depths that can be ordered. Next, if extension jambs are needed, it is very difficult to install flush jambs without some sort of line being visible at the seam. I have done it before but it is very costly. The procedure is much like creating a large table top by joining multiple pieces of wood together and then sanding for a perfect joint. Problem is that many contractors don't like and can't make alterations to a pre-finished or even factory primed window parts that come from the manufacturer. The cost for the above process generally ranges from $100-150 per window because of the increase of time to apply the jambs.

Also, I am concerned by the lack of effort made by this contractor to understand and manage your expectations. The specs for window/trim install should be completed even if just a sketch on a piece of paper. Just something to communicate detail.

Exactly. The specs should have been completed at the plan or proposal stage. The more decisions are made prior to construction the faster & easier it goes, the more time the homeowner has to focus on bigger picture. That's the value of Architects, Interior Designers, contractors with detailed proposals, etc.

As a homeowner, there is an infinite level of detail you can explore, but do you have the time?

cpartist - most "affordable" wood or composite windows need extension jambs... and they are not sent to be flush. That is uber high end custom work. Not all clients plan to case wrap the inside. Some are drywalled. It depends on the look desired.

Managing a clients expectations is a growing & moving target. I prefer walking clients through an existing build to discuss similarities and changes. My favorite proposals are …"like the home at xxx street with the following changes..."

With the advent of Houzz, the issues of clients bringing me magazine pictures from a home 2-3x their budget is multiplied, the advice given online is often related to another region, or a bad experience. I think I'm seeing "call a lawyer" in nearly every post.

I just showed this to my DH who had a glass/window business for over 40 years. He said in his experience on the west coast, jamb extenders were usually used for patio doors. What I was thinking was a jamb extender on the OPs original pic is just part of the window frame (casements or fixed?) and not a jamb extender. So the only thing the trim guys could do is install a "one piece" stool/sill like they did the second time around. I imagine that the material used for the stool/sill is not as thick as the window frame, so that is why there is such a large reveal between the window frame and the stool. To make the stool flush with the window frame would probably require a lot of extra work and skill.

The more decisions are made prior to construction the faster & easier it goes, the more time the homeowner has to focus on bigger picture.

Very, very, true! . . . and even when all the ducks are in a row, misunderstandings and problems STILL happen!

However, like you mentioned Jeffrey all this should have been spec'd out before beginning. My builder is no prize, but I know I sent him before we started building photos and my own drawings of exactly how I wanted the windows to look. In fact we had an issue with my backsplash window and I was able to show him that he ordered the wrong thing based on my original drawings. It was reordered.