Cable or track lighting, depending on the space, would be my choice. Please post pictures.

What do you mean “no attic with exposed beams” How was this built? How is the insulation handled? A SIPS? We need some idea of the build methodology. And pictures.

House was built in the 40s with no insulation, shed roof with BUR, so no attic.

Old beams are no longer to code, so we put in new beams and ceiling. Still finishing framing. New ceiling have rigid foam on top and then roof.

Here is a pic of the current state

Your architect/designer didnt develop a lighting plan as part of the remodel? Why wasn’t wiring run over the ceiling cladding, under the foam?? You possibly still can?

There are surface mount discs that look like recessed lights and only need a standard electrical box. There’s cable wiring. All of these need electrical supply boxes in locations that may not be ideal .

Electrical will be run under the rigid insulation. There is an electrical plan. I asked for minimal number of ceiling lights to keep the character of the existing house from the architect.

I am asking Houzz members if I go with the minimal ceiling lighting as planned would the rooms be well lit with just wall sconces and a few floor lamps? Will the ceiling be well lit with uplight sconces? Should I consider adding other types of lights for better coverage? Thanks!

One Devoted Dame,

I am squarely in your camp and think sconces and lamps should suffice. My spouse likes it bright and I am second guessing myself. I do not want to overreact and that is why I am trying to guage others' sentiments.

As for the ceiling, I just want to make sure it is not a dark mass. We want to be able to enjoy seeing the ceiling at night.

Yes.

It will help if you stain or paint your beams and decking white.

Virgil Carter Fine Art,

Trying to keep original house vibe, so beams and decking will be stained.

I think it can be done but I would want ceiling light. I say that because I have poor vision & a room not very well lit drives me crazy because I simply can't see well. This could be something to consider if you are up in age & eyesight issues are something that runs in your family. I'm young still but have had vision problems my whole life. The home we are working on currently probably has too many lights for the average person. But, it was one of my biggest concerns when we was working on our lighting plan because the home I'm in now bothers my eyes. I think it can be about the lighting "layers" so to speak. I do think the stained ceiling with no ceiling lighting WILL be darker. Unless you have some wall lights pointing upwards perhaps.

I would not design lighting in order to avoid climbing ladders. LED lamps should last longer than most people own their homes. If they are burning out in less than the advertised time, you are probably putting LED lamps in recessed housings where the miniature driver is in the lamp base and is prone to overheating and premature failure.

I often use a dimmable LED wedge sconce to light tall ceilings. The one shown below is very effective as long as its below eye level and the wall is over 8 ft tall.

Its only available in 3000K but the light should appear warmer after bouncing off of the ceiling.

I would not change the color of the beams or ceiling or add track lighting.

I would temporarily install a wedge sconce now to see how it looks. I used to have fixtures with cords that could be connected to the construction power. I try not to guess about lighting.

I think a properly designed cove light would be in keeping with the style, provide a soft indirect light and accent your ceilings. With current LED technology it's very easy to do.

The mid-century house I grew up in had low ceilings and no ceiling lights in the living room. We had a couple floor lamps, a table lamp, and a swag lamp. It was fine, though it would have been nice to have at least one of those lamps on a wall switch (we didn't). Unlike One Devoted Dame, I actually do like to have some light bounced off the ceiling, not because I want to see the ceiling so well but because it's a nice way to create diffuse ambient lighting. You can do that with torchieres or cove lighting that direct light upward.

@User,

"The one shown below is very effective as long as its below eye level and the wall is over 8 ft tall."

I assume you meant to say as long as it is above eye level? In the pic above, the left side is about 9' tall to the underside of the beam and the right side is about 11.5' to the underside of the beam. I alluded to this before. In addition to wall sconces for general lighting, maybe I can use this wedge light for example further up the wall. How far down from the ceiling should something like this wedge light go? In the addition, we have the same kind of ceiling but it starts around 11' and goes up to 15' to the underside of the beam.

@Seabornman, @cawaps,

Cove lighting sounds intriguing as well. I have been seeing pictures of recessed LED strip lighting that some people have running high up on the wall. Would they do a good job providing accent lighting to the ceiling or is that too contemporary looking? Thanks

The only way to know is to buy a wedge fixture and wire it with a cord and try it out in various places to see the light pattern on the ceiling.

I would avoid cove lighting with exposed beams and different height walls.

Don't forget that table and free standing lamps are designed to light the ceiling too.

I don't see indirect lighting as too contemporary. Look at a lot of Wright's work: coves, uplight wall sconces, clerestories. What you don't see are cluttered ceilings. If it's a cove, it can be integral to your room. Many people make the mistake of putting the light source too close to the surface to be lit, creating a "hot spot" instead of an even glow. You can experiment by taking a cheap fluorescent shop light and hold it up upside down in various locations and heights to see the effect. Better at night. LEDs make it so much easier now with tape lighting.

I'm not fond of recessed cans either, especially not with your lovely future ceiling. I think one overhead in each main room is good, and that a combination of sconces, floor lamps and table lamps will do the rest of the job. And floor and table lamps are moveable.

In my old home there were no overheads in the living room. Frankly, I never missed it, and I don't enjoy living in a dimly lit space (especially as my eyes are getting "old"). That room never had scones, either, but was lit by one floor lamp and several table lamps to satisfaction.

Just a thought. Plan the lamps and switches. I am a huge fan of lamps - but it does get challenging to plan all the switches and future locations of lamps.

Otherwise, you are doing the very old fashioned thing of running around turning on lamps manually. There are options to automate but you need to be comfortable with that.

I was planning on doing Casetas in lots of places but got push back for the looks and more difficult on/off buttons.

@User,

Question about the light referenced. Do you know the beam angle for that light? I can not seem to find that info online. Thanks!

Wall sconces can add light to a dark corner in any room and help to make room seems larger. Chandeliers with matching wall sconces can fill lights around the room and balance the the light from the chandelier, which might otherwise seem harsh.