They get screwed to the framing like any wall cabinet. The screws go through the back of the cabinet into studs- locate them in inconspicuous areas our patch and touch them up after.

Not understanding. Why did you not just use the inspo picture and then have it painted? Where is the current photo as is? Shelves will need brackets or new shelves designed to float. Hooks need hollow wall anchors. The bench needs supports and a way to cleat to the wall.

V, you "do" and ask later. ......or you ask and then don't or cant listen. Or find a reason why something won't work for you. Everyone has tried SO hard to help. It's very frustrating, and I am certain you find us equally so. But projects all over the house, none done in a way you will truly like for some time? That becomes a problem, and gets you a problem as the one you have. It looks in your picture as if the bench is already anchored . What is holding it up ??!

I'm sure the frame will be covered and you won't see it when finished. If you want it attached to the wall only it needs to be built so it is sturdy enough and will hold the weight. Some legs could help with this as well to use to hold the structure up.

I need to see the actual unit since the inspo has a back

I don't have a pic of the actual unit as it was built off-site. The bench has 4 legs/supports. The contractor wanted to use L brackets, I think he said, to attach the legs to the floor for anchoring. There's a wide board under the top shelves for support, similar to the inspiration pic, from what I understand. He coat hooks will be attached to that. There will be beadboard in the coat hook area, similar to the inspiration pic (I realize it is not beadboard in the pic). It is not that the built-in is lacking support, it just needs to be anchored in a way that's reasonably unobtrusive.

When I hire someone to do work, I expect them to know how to do the whole project. I don't think that's unreasonable. If it needed a full back, I would have expected the contractor to tell me that. I do quite a bit of research and have several posts here about this project, but I don't know enough about constructing things to think of every single question I might need to ask. But I have seen benches that are leg less, like this one pictured below, so how is that anchored? If it's a floating frame it appears to me that something other than 2x4s were used.

If it needs a back to be properly anchored, can the beadboard serve that function? It is only supposed to go behind the open space where the coat hooks are but could go all the way across if necessary.

Pfaff Residence Medfield Ma. · More Info

“Floating” benches use invisible, usually steel, supports, installed into the studs, before the wall is drywalled. Your picture of the space is unclear, and there are no design diagrams included, nor a picture of the end result. Where are the design documents that include the engineering of the support needed for this?

The last one looks like it could have been built out of 2x4's underneath and attached to the studs and then it is covered with a top and the front has a 1x4 board to finish it off.

This is the drawing I have from what I discussed with the contractor.

There are definitely no invisible supports here.

That framework appears to be screwed into the studs with wood screws. It ought to support your entire family standing on it, plus your neighbors. All it needs is a decorative apron and top.

Why are you here asking questions instead of talking with the builder of this unit?

Looks to me like it is built very sturdy and screwed into studs and now just needs to be covered with finishing trim/seat. What is your actual concern because it isn't clear to me.

You're not going to stand the entire family on it at the same time. It's probably sturdier than the frame of your leather sofa. . Ask the guy building it, if you need more reassurance. What did you think you were getting when he provided the drawing? He's not DONE yet, per the drawing you have

@User by "decorative apron" do you mean a piece over the front of the frame?

Yes that is what a decorative apron is. Trim to cover the framing.

DH objected to the look of the frame and thinks it should be anchored differently. He was a handyman for several years so knows way more about this stuff than I do. That's all I know. I'm sick of this whole project. It was supposed to take 2.5 weeks and it's been 2 months. I just want it over with and to be able to put coats and shoes in the entryway again instead of in the living room.

Here's a post about how someone else built one and it might help you understand some. Although I would have used an edgeband on the plywood seat.

http://www.theschmidthome.net/build-floating-bench-shoe-shelf/

There are multiple ways it could be done. I don't see anything wrong with how yours is built.

V, when you hire someone to do a job, you cannot assume they can see the picture inside your mind. Having work done is a process of showing them pictures, asking them questions, fully understanding what they propose to build and install. If I tell you to cook a meal for me, what would I get? What do you think I want for dinner? If I haven’t given you specifics about the entree and the sides, soup or salad, fruit or cake, I cannot be surprised when you give me a bowl of chili and three crackers when I was expecting steak and soufflé. When you are the owner, you are in charge, the boss. It is your responsibility to be specific, to ask questions when you aren’t clear about what the sub said, to supervise the work. There is no magic wand that gives you the finished result. It is hard work to remodel. It’s your job.

If DH objects, he should have built it a couple of years ago when you first asked. He should hush now, and let the guy you had to hire to do it to finish it. There’s nothing wrong with what was done. He‘s just being a sour pickle.

@lyfia thanks for the link, it helps to have a visual. It won't look quite like what I had in mind but I think it will be fine in the end.

On a different topic, is it normal for newly installed grout to crack? We had a closet torn out in the entryway and slate flagstone laid there to match the rest of the entryway. The grout has cracked already in several spots in the new area. It was grouted Friday.

You walked on it too soon, it is too much grout, and the floor was not level and well prepped? Any and all possible

UGH.......... " DH objected" to the design" Then put DH in charge.If it stinks? It stinks. Really V.....at some point you have to stand some ground.On something, anything.

IMO you should have listened to the thoughts to have an actual coat closet done in 3 days by DH and so much nicer looking at a front door. And now if DH knows so much let him figure what to do.

The board-'n-bat look back panel to which the hooks are attached is likely plywood.

It is unlikely that a 2"x4" white painted board beneath that seat on the back and both sides would detract from the unit. You might want to angle and sand the front ends of the boards on the sides.

In lieu of "grout" to fill any cracks, consider caulking.

" . . . at some point you have to stand some ground."

That could be how the grout cracked.

Jan Moyer is correct. You, DH, your kids or your bench builder walked on that grout too soon. It needs time to cure.
The good news for you is you can break out that grout and re-grout, but you need to know that matching the grout exactly cannot be guaranteed. Another possible disappointment could very well happen.

Why do we still use the "DH" ? Based on this and all the other threads prior, save some ink. H will suffice: (

There's a small gap between the edges of the built in and the walls because the wall wasn't level front to back. The contractor suggested quarter round or a small flat piece of trim to cover it. It seems like a flat piece would look best but is there a way to do it to be as inconspicuous as possible? DH thinks the trim piece should start halfway across the width of the edge of the built in. That seems more noticable to me than having it go all the way across the edge, but then it might look odd that all the shelves don't have trim. The contractor said he could frame it with trim (the two sides and the top). I'm just not sure what will look best, or if there's an option we haven't considered.

I t should have been built to use an inch and a half filler both sides, scribed to the walls There is no perfect niche. It doesn't exist. Do as the contractor suggested, and across as well with a flat trim. The H is wrong. Will look even skimpier as a half measure/stepped add on. Live and learn.

DH needs to butt out. Again. Dumbest idea ever, and I can see why you hired someone rather than let him touch it. Go cough on him and tell him you feel feverish.

Scribe molding will be fine there. You’re lucky your cabinet guy is not viewing the top of his skull right now from rolling his eyes so far back in his head. And you’re lucky that he has actually come to your home to complete this. Lots of businesses are shut down right now. Like the entire state of PA, where zero construction can take place.

Wacokid

Do you have something to contribute to what was unfortunately poorly designed/ considered in construction of the cubby? Something every and any good wood working craftsman knows? You need to account for the fact, that no wall niche can be trusted to be square. Not a single one.

So I shall ask, do you have a constructive solution ? A brainstorm? Go ahead and do feel free to contribute something other than your loathing for me. A solution.. It's the internet.

"HOW do you attach a backless built-in to the wall?"

Very long screws.