bottom row the one on the left or the middle one.

Agree with above, bottom middle.

Or the top row- last one to the right (it’s not in your second picture, maybe it’s not a contender...?)

Thanks both. @Jennifer Svensson Yeah, good catch. That one looks nice, no knots version from Monarch with 8" wide, but price also doubled compared with the rests... A bit too expensive for us, :(. The rests are same brand form China with knots... The top row left two are 9.5" wide and the ones in the bottom row are 7.5" wide. 9.5" wide cost 20% more but we thought would look nicer for bigger space? My kids like gray floor (top left), and husband too (also he prefers wider one). I am the only one like more wood look floor I guess, how to convince them?

People with black and white kitchens always come on here asking how to warm them up -- the gray won't do that, but a natural wood goes with everything and helps soften the other more dramatic finishes a bit. (Also, I'd worry about warping with those really wide boards -- there's a reason that 3" and 5" are much more common!)

I also like a wide plank and spent many (like 18!!) months looking for the perfect one for our space. We ended up with a not so wide plank (5.75”) but it had the right color and feel, and price point. I do think 7” will give you that w.i.d.e plank feel. No need to splash for the extra 2” up to 9” plus unless you live in a castle. :) I’m not opposed to a gray floor like some others, but from what you’re describing I think a bit of warmth to the floor will benefit the space.

Bottom row, middle, I agree. If I were you, I'd order a box first. Check to make sure the dark/light boards aren't too pronounced, or the floor *might* take on a stripey look you're not prepared for...

Thanks all, it's really helpful. I am going to order a box first to view the effect.

By process of elimination.

I prefer Beverly's "Classic Choice" (bottom left). You don't need to have the width (expensive) to get the look of natural wood. Funnily enough, natural wood looks natural no matter the width of the plank.

Be aware the "Wire Brush" or Oil finishes. They sound/feel lovely...but they are BEASTS to live with.

What products (names/links please) are you looking at?

i like the one under the gray one. the bottom one on the left. natural wood looks amazing with black. its timeless and just brings together all the colors that you have.

Thanks, this is everbright flooring, we got it from the floor guy our GC uses. Any comments on this brand?

Everbright (out of China - poorly written English on their website....your decision to continue is on you) has 3 lines: Engineered hardwood, Solid Hardwood or SPC.

Which line/product are you looking at?

Understand they are made in China. We are looking at engineered hardwood.

I agree that the bottom left or middle is what I would go for. However, I would never purchase a product made in China, especially something as important as a floor. If you're spending more for the 9 inch, I'd rethink that. I'd rather get a quality product at a bit narrower width that is NOT made in China.

Is that a quality concern? What places are considered trustworthy?

@J W That's a quality concern for me. I remember the substance found in rice that went into dog food that killed thousands of animals, the inferior drywall and the inferior pvc pipe that has led many to a needless repipe of their homes (some on slabs). I can't answer the question as to what places are trustworthy, but I'm sure one would be the USA - I only use regular hardwood so don't have options in engineered but I'm sure others can weigh in.

The descriptions of the product are limited to say the least. In fact there is NO TECHNICAL definition of anything - which I always find suspicious.

https://cbcf50bd-00ac-4366-9726-658995056620.filesusr.com/ugd/889e15_56b099970c0f4a059644d138f3b95b02.pdf

A 7.5" wide engineered hardwood is SUPPOSED TO BE expensive. That is a high value product. You can get the same 'look' with a 4" product. I can't find the installation instructions (but the warranty HANGS on the installation instructions AND the care requirements...which do not exist either).

When a company FAILS to pay a native English speaker to proof-read/write the documents on a website, it tells me they are too cheap to do it properly. If they refuse to pay $20/hour for someone to correct the grammar/spelling mistakes on a website, you can image they will go cheap on the more important things...like finish and adhesives.

Just reading the webpages tells me these guys are not a company that wants to spend money on 'outside' help (like on a N. American employee).

How abt monarch? Any recommended brand for 3/4” engineer wood floor? Flooring seems to be an area where everyone carries/uses different brand... so hard to choose.

I’m not familiar with Monarch... Kentwood has many wider plank options at what I though was a reasonable price point back when I was looking. Kährs was another one. Both mailed us samples for free. Kentwood’s were as large as the store samples, while Kährs sent the smaller pieces (2-3 of each.

J W where are you located? Your location will dictate what products you have access to.

California, Bay Area. What’s a reasonable price per SF?

A reasonable price for 3/4" engineered hardwood in a 7.5" width...with 6mm wear layer?

A well made N. American product = $12-$15/sf. Installation is extra. And remember anything wider than 4" is considered wide plank = must have glue down approach. Either it is full spread glue down or it is nail down with glue assist. This type of install gets quite expensive.

Thanks, the evebright brand is less than 7$ per SF which is why I was looking at it... anyone actually used it before?
The floor guy we talked to offer two colors from the monarch plank as the non made in China version 1): https://monarchplank.com/collections/forte/products/forte-lucchio is the color too dark ? 2)https://monarchplank.com/collections/forte/products/forte-bianco, is this too white?
Do you see any good color choice from this monarch plank website? Is this a trustworthy brand? (Made in Canada)

We would like to stick to 3/4 width since we already installed kitchen cabinets according to that height but this seems put a lot of limitation on our floor choice.

For installation, I was told 1) if greater than 7.5 we need glue down but for <=7.5 nail along is good enough. 2) For the glue down part, a) one guy said sealant needs to be applied before glue, otherwise glue is useless (for concrete subfloor?); while b) another guy said sealant is not needed, just nail down with glue assist will do. 3) Sealant will cost extra 1.5$ per SF, glue will be another extra 1$ per SF, total 2.5$ extra per SF in installation due to the width... how true are the above statements? (1,2a,2b, 3)

Wide plank products (more than 4" wide) should have glue assist. Glue assist can mean serpentine (a ribbon of glue snaked across the back of a plank) or it can mean FULL SPREAD (big ol' notched trowel with HORDES of glue).

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2720/0826/files/MP_Plywood_Backed_Eng_Install_Maint_020420_ef77a58b-357c-4281-8e70-325530d04226.pdf?v=1585091380

Here is what Monarch says about YOUR width choice (8" in first link).

This is from the FIRST PAGE of the Installation instructions:

"NOTE: When nailing down planks wider than 6”, it is strongly recommended to use a full spread adhesive in addition to nails in order to prevent movement and squeaking. Claims will not be accepted for movement or squeaking in floors wider than 6” that were nailed down without a full spread adhesive. Nailing planks wider than 7.5” wide without a full spread adhesive will void all warranties. (See below under ‘Nail + Glue Installation Instructions’ for details.)"

That's pretty specific. Sealants are needed for concrete (that's a whole 'nother ball of wax) but not plywood/wood/OSB.

OH....just so you know, you are looking at UV OIL finishes with these planks. Be VERY CAREFUL with these products. They have TONNES of maintenance. I'm not a fan of them. They are NOT your typical polyurethane finish. They can stain (especially in the gray/white look you are drawn to). You, the homeowner will need ALL THE MAINTENANCE products required (ahem...you will buy all of it at the time you purchase the floor) that you will require to keep these floors happy and healthy.

An oiled finish is VASTLY different from polyurethane. So different there are people who rip out their floors after 2-3 years because they HATE the look/maintenance required.

Here are the MAINTENANCE Instructions for YOUR choice of finish (UV Oil):

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2720/0826/files/Monarch-Oxidative-Uv-Oil-Care.pdf?4582102593373525144

It clearly states the use of Woca Maintenance oils used 2-4 times per year (zoinks!).

Because I'm lazy (I prefer the term 'practical') I would NEVER own an oiled floor. I could maintain them (I have the knowledge) I just don't want to! I can put up with a lot of things (being a cork flooring expert....I know a thing or two about persnickety floors) but the maintenance levels of oiled floors is too much for me (and my 'practical' nature ;-).

Homeowner, Know Thyself.

Ok thanks for the detailed explanation. What’s the easiest to maintain choice for prefinished engineering wood floor? Color/finish? Any recommended product links? Thank you!

The tough polyurethanes (with or without Aluminum Oxide) are the easiest to maintain. A natural colour (no stains) are the easiest to maintain...and live with. The narrower the plank width the easier it is to control the indoor humidity range to keep the floors from buckling, crowning or cupping or from gaps created by winter dryness.

following

@J W what flooring option did you pick in the end? Did you find a product you liked made in the US or Canada?

@J W What flooring option did you go with? Looking for Everbright brand inputs

I agree with the classic choice, similar to what I chose. I have gray cabinets and charcoal soap stone Silestone counters.