Thank you for the reply. Any other idea what the problem was? I an confused as to why the soft and droopy branches are still alive and green! Did they just react poorly to the cold but maybe not actually freeze? Is that one section considered root rot?

Cold damage usually starts at the very extremities first and works its way back to the trunk last. Also, for damaged areas, first is wilting (an individual wilted leaf can sometimes survive like that), then death if the cold keeps up. So that black branch core is just a partial death of the cells in that area. It will soon rot out that whole affected branch area, so it's good you cut that one out, but it is not root rot. So the soft & droopy but alive and green branches are wounded but not mortally.

I had a frost damaged jade and it 'came back'. Most damaged branches just fell off. I eventually pruned off the rest of them that you see in the left photo since they were just too long. Most were pruned off completely, few were just shortened but quite a bit. Here is the same plant when it was given to me (left) and almost 4yrs later (I didn't take more pics of it after it was given to me unfortunately) :

Main trunk recovered and it is a strong plant now. It also got much more straight, and is just about completely upright now. What temps was your plant in, and do you know for how long?

It shouldn't be put into much warmer spot right away I think. Tom is correct about that one branch that has black marks, and it should be discarded. Some pieces may still rot away, many may not. I didn't root any of the cuttings IIRC, but I had few other plants and didn't want more.

From what is visible in your photo, main plant should recover. Just watch the cut ends, and if any start getting black marks, cut them off - slice thin slices off until there is none left. It probably won't happen. I rooted many cuttings over the years, and I do not water them for at least 10 days or longer - usually, the new growth starts ad that means roots are growing. I do not root
leaves any more, (since I have many plants) but sometimes find a new plant growing where the leaf falls off. I used to just leave the on the surface of potting mix, and didn't water until they started growing roots and/or plantlets. It may take little while longer before you see any growth since on top of being damaged, winter is coming and many plants are dormant. During dormant period, plants should be watered much less - depends on temps they are kept in. And definitely don't fertilize until spring (I actually hardly ever fertilize mine, maybe 1-2x in summer if at all).

Thank You for this reply.

After bringing it in and warming it up I waited about two days and then took all of the soil out and loosened as much as possible from the roots. Then I re potted it. It’s been in good sunlight in my room for the past three days now. The ends of the branches(where I trimmed) are starting to callous and wrinkle up now. But I still haven’t watered it yet. When do you think I should I water it? I just want to make sure I’m careful with every step I take because I don’t want to hinder its growth. This plant means so much to me.

Here’s a picture From today. The ends where I trimmed are drying out but do they look okay? is it shriveled because it needs water or do I need to cut even more off?

@Tom H @rina_Ontario,Canada 5a

I’m just concerned because the ends where I cut yesterday are slightly soft now. Is this normal or is that bad?

When I prune jades, I cut it very close - just above the 'ring' on the stem. Maybe just few mm. Longer this leftover stub is (beyond the 'ring'), longer it take to callus. I hope you understand what I mean. I do the same for cuttings - cut them clean just below the 'ring'. Cut will callus fast. On thinner branches, a thin scab forms, that often falls off when completely dry. Try to use a sharp blade; scissors or clippers/pruning shears could squeeze-squish the branch if not sharp.

Here is a photo of quite thick trunk (thicker than what you are showing) that was pruned off and left to callus for a while - maybe 3 weeks? I do not leave them for that long to callus anymore. I also used light dusting of powdered cinnamon on the cut because I thought it may rot - I do not use it much anymore either, but it is a natural fungicide and won't hurt:

If my plant, I would just check it every few days to make sure nothing is rotting. Should that happen, I would just recut.

I would not water it until potting soil is almost completely dry. You can check it using a 'tell stick' -inserting a bamboo/wooden skewer or chopstick deep into the pot. Leave it in for few minutes. If dry when pulled out, you could water. If damp or feels cold, and sometimes has soil particles sticking to it, there is plenty of moisture and do not water.

That pot seems to be quite large and holds lots of soil. More soil - longer it takes to dry up. I do not think it was necessary to repot, was soil bad? Light freeze shouldn't damage the soil...Was it actually below freezing? I keep all succulents outside as long as possible, and had jades out in temps around 32*F this year (temps were at that level for about 2-3hrs on few nights). They are all in now, mostly because it rains a lot. Cold and wet is not good for succulents. As I already mentioned, they should be watered even less during dormancy (unless you keep them quite warm).

I prefer more inorganic mix for succulents, and from what is visible in your photo, I am not sure yours drains fast (only you know). I would prefer to see much more sifted perlite or pumice in the mix, especially since you repotted, mixing them in about 1:1 ratio. I use much more inorganic mix: approx. equal amounts of sifted perlite and grit, and small amount (10-20% of toal) of either soil, or turface, or cocopeat. Sometime nothing else nut grit and sifted petlite...