It sounds like it is not exhausting. Have you run the dryer and checked the vent outside to see if there is exhaust? There is definitely something blocking the airflow. From reading other threads it seems selecting the side exhaust requires a conversion from using the default rear exhaust.

Because things are new doesn't mean that something can't be wrong. Open up the exhaust vent and start looking.

Photos of what you have would be helpful. Go outside while the dryer is running and check for strong airflow at the exhaust hood. There's a problem, obviously, if insufficient or no airflow. It should have force near-like a hairdryer set at its highest speed. Proper airflow to move out the evaporating moisture is as important, if not moreso, as heat in the clothes-drying process. Insufficient airflow also makes the heating element run too hot which a) triggers overheat thermostats to shut the heat off prematurely which increases drying time and energy usage, and b) can reduce the service life of the element due to the additional thermal stress.

The 4" ducting connecting the dryer to the exhaust port on the wall should be as short and straight as possible. Not unusual it's longer than ideal to provide working-room when installing the machine, which results in excessive bends or obstructive kinks and crushing when the dryer is moved into position. The ducting from the wall to outside ideally should be 4" solid-flue, not flexible hose.

I will absolutely check the exhaust from outside. I did disconnect the hose and stuck my hand into the outlet on the appliance. It was clear, but did have a lot of moisture. In ast with older dryers, I have never experienced this kind of moisture. I then proceeded to check the hose and there was no obvious blockage. In addition to viewing exhaust from outside, I will shorten the hose so there is nothing coiled on floor. Will update when I have more data. Thanks.

If your situation allows for it, disconnect the ducting from the wall port and route it around to front of the dryer into the room (to avoid having heated/damp air pulled directly into the dryer from the back) and dry a load of wet clothes or set the dryer to a 20-min timed/heat cycle and run it empty. Note the airflow from the ducting and whether the fault recurs. The installation instructions may detail a test procedure to check the airflow via a specific button combo. I'm not for sure knowing the technology by which the dryer checks the airflow but it's unlikely to be fibbing about it. The control board may monitor whether the element overheat thermostat is triggering to determine the issue.

Youre running flex duct and not hard duct? That could be the issue right there.

Learned some interesting facts. I disconnected hose from outside port and vented around to front into room as suggested. Ran the flow test and it passed. Confirmed it fails when connected to outside port.

Kept it connected to outside port, ran normal cycle and watched from outside. The vent flaps did not move. Attached some pictures. If you notice, vent on outside is missing flap on bottom. My guess is that is enough to reduce pressure so other flaps stay closed, but since they are closed it traps enough of air and moisture inside back into appliance to fail test. Hoping replacing vent will solve problem.

Also in pictures, I am using extension piece I have picture of to connect to outside port to make it easier. Not sure if that matters.

There you have it. Yay.