I have had front loaders for more than 30 years without any mold. I always dry the gasket. I do some loads in hot or hot+ with my Miele because they recommend it. I remove the soap drawer about once a month to let it dry out really well, too. I think that leaving the door open helps a lot. I know some people think it is ridiculous to have to leave a washer door open, but it doesn't bother me a bit. It is not like anyone will see it other than DH and me and it gives it time to thoroughly dry. I will take an open door over mold any day.

yes I have the door wide open all day

For the Miele folks, I’m seeing the drum capacity is nearly half what I’m used to, even with the Little Giants. I’m worried about creating more laundry hours for myself. Do you find the smaller unit frustrating at all? Do you have kids with all their sports gear and big King size down comforters and duvets to wash?

"elizabeth_eclectic: yes I have the door wide open all day"

That oughta be way plenty ventilation to dry the interior. There clearly are other factors involved in your mold problem. Perhaps the boutique detergent? I looked at Dirty Labs website, there's only the one laundry detergent product? The directions state Line 1 for standard medium loads, and references a "standard" dose as 8 ml, which is a smidgen more than 1-1/2 teaspoons. Seems questionable to me that is sufficient. Have you checked your typical loads as to whether the wash water is slippery between the fingers, which indicates sufficient surfactants and conditioning to sequester and flush away laundry soils? Do you have a water softener?

Regards to water temperatures, I don't believe any brands/manufacturers on the U.S. market (except maybe a few models from European brands such as Miele and Asko) any longer state specific target temperatures other than perhaps for a Sanitize or Allergen cycle (not Sanitize with Oxi). ATC (automatic temperature control) systems read the temperature via digital data from a thermistor. The cycle logic in the control board can be programmed for different targets for the same temperature choice (Cool, Warm, Hot, etc.) on different cycles, and for different soil level choices on a given cycle.

Elizabeth, no, I could not fit a king size duvet in my washer . I have never needed that since we do not have any king-size beds here. I cannot even fit a heavy queen-size quilt-a lighter one, yes.

"So far the front runner is the latest GE version of this model..."

However, CR wrote:

"Our testers installed the UltraFresh washer...They ran one trial with the vent on and one with it off.

"Findings show that the vent lowered the humidity inside the washer to match the room. With the vent off, internal humidity stayed above 90 percent during the trial. 'The UltraFresh vent does reduce humidity levels in the drum,' says CR test engineer Richard Handel. 'We don’t know how this will impact mold growth.'"

As you probably have experienced, most front loaders have cycles that take far longer to complete than the old quick top loading washing machines of the past. And when you consider that you might be using an allergin or sanitize cycle, your wash times will be on the longer side even more than the normal cycles. The European machines can sometimes offer wonderful high temperature options and high spin speeds, but unfortunately, there a small size means that you may end up spending longer Doing laundry than you ever had imagined. One consideration that just occurred to me is that if you were to consider using a top load washing machine that has an agitator and not the impeller types, you will find some of those models offer the ability to adjust water levels much higher than the typical front loader, and it might help you with detergent residues to have More water than less especially in your rinse cycles. At least one of the SpeedQueen models, I believe it is the TR7 Top loader model, actually has one of its cycles that will allow you to have a warm water rinse, which can also be a bit more helpful in removing detergent residues than cold water rinses . One of the trade-offs of course with all top loaders is that their spin speeds are lower, and don’t extract as much water as almost every front loader can.

I have to get front loading because I already have custom cabinetry with a marble countertop above. Otherwise I love the Speed Queen and its lack of digital bells and whistles that can malfunction

@wdccruise i did read that, but damp conditions are the main contributing factor for mold growth, so I figured lower humidity is at least better than what i clealy have going on currently, ugh. I also learned mold doesn’t grow below 40 degrees. Too bad washers can’t go down to near freezing temps after each load haha

All Speed Queen washers have electronic controls, including the toploaders that have rotary knobs. Two control boards, one for the control panel, another in the base for the motor. The rotary knobs are programmers for the control panel board.

Are you sure you can’t clean up the mold? I have a rental property with an older LG front loader, which had been mine for many years before we put it in the rental (I never had mold problems). Between tenants I always have to clean it out and let it dry again. Just did it this weekend, and when I went over to check it yesterday it was fine (and it was awful on Saturday before I cleaned it).

Susie, in this case the mold is behind the rubber door boot/gasket next to the outside of the drum. So it would require the machine to be taken apart to access.

Mine also needs to be taken off to access. I think most do. I do think it would be cheaper to pay someone (if you’re not able to do it) than purchase a new machine. Even replacing the gasket would be cheaper than a new machine.

If mold is on the bellows for long enough to stain it then mold & smutz almost surely is on other internal areas that are inaccessible without disassembly. Reference: my photos (I didn’t include any above of spin drum exteriors).

Watch the YouTube videos on gasket replacement. It's not that difficult if my spacey sister can do it.

I agree with dadoes. If you are smelling mold then it is not just the bellow/gasket.

I had a top load Fisher and Paykel years ago. I would do cold water washes a lot. I started smelling mold. Machine looked clean until we took the actual tub out. The whole outside of the tub was covered in mold. It was so nasty. We dragged the tub into our masterbath shower and had to scrub it down.

I currently have an LG front load and no mold issues but I also run hot and sanitize cycles a lot. I rarely run cold washes.

For compact size units (All European) you have to change your laundry habits from once a week to more often. we do laundry every day. Its not what you think though. Put laundry in at night and mornkng set to wash while at work. Transfer to dryer when you get home.

We have 13 people in our house and do all of our laundry in Miele. Down is easier to wash as it takes up a lot less space when it gets wet. Big king size would probabaly not fit. We do queen and smaller with no problems.

Another advantage Miele has is the suds container (the outer tub) is also stainless steel. Mainstream washers have plastic outer tubs which are porous and allow mold and other smutz to take hold.

I've had my Miele for almost 20 months and it still looks brand new. I wash in warm or hot and always dry the boot and the detergent dispenser tray/cavity at the end of each wash day.

I use Tide free which does not contain any optical brighteners or preservatives. I also use fabric softener...

@littlegreeny: "Mainstream washers have plastic outer tubs which are porous and allow mold and other smutz to take hold."

LG MCK67635902 Washer Tub Cover*: "This outer front tub (part number MCK67635902) is for washers. Outer front tub MCK67635902 fits over the spin basket** and attaches to the outer rear tub, sealing water inside the machine."

What evidence do you have that this LG plastic plastic Tub Cover (aka "Outer tub") is porus*** and "allow[s] mold and other smutz to take hold"? Obviously is is not porus for liquids or wash water would leak out. It is porus for gases?

-----

*for LG WM3400CW 4.5 cu.ft. Front Load Washer

**spinbasket aka drum

***Porus definition: "Admitting the passage of gas or liquid through pores or interstices"

Guess it depends what you want to beleive or trust. ABT, a retailer that sells appliances, says exactly what @littlegreeny stated:

https://www.abt.com/learn/washing-machine-buying-guide

Plastic tubs (Inner OR Outer) exist to meet a price point. They can not handle the higher spin speeds that Stainless can tubs can. Plastic can be more easily scratched than stainless. Scratches provide a surface that grime abd mold can attach and be difficult to clean.

There is a reason you dont see plastic surfaces in restaurants, surgical centers, etc. It is not easy to sanitize once scratched and it is less durable.

Now a washer is different than the above surfaces, but the premise is the same. Durability, cleanability and longevity are what sets stainless above plastic or porcelain coated steel.

If plastic was great why isnt it used on the surface people can see (the inner tub)?

littlegreeny I noticed you said you still use FS. Oh how I miss using that! I just came back from a visit to my folks on the east coast, and I did several loads of laundry for them as well as doing a load for me and my partner. I used FS in every load, and I loved the scent on the clothes. Now that we have bought new towels, I am so tempted to use it again-sparingly-but I just have not been able to bring myself to do it here.

Our SQ will be 6 years old in November, my MIL's Miele is 10 years old, and is getting a real workout due to 4 extra people and 3(!) dogs now living in her house. I know you and luna would say that the Miele will last another 10 years, but I keep wondering what we would do if her set got worn our-transfer our SQ set to her and then shop for a new set? I would be tempted to use a FL again, but it would have to be a set that has more capacity than what Miele (even the LG) offers.

@luna123456: "Plastic can be more easily scratched than stainless. Scratches provide a surface that grime abd mold can attach and be difficult to clean."

The word "scratch" appears nowhere on the webpage you linked. Further, clothes only make contact with the LG front loader's metal "spin basket" (i.e., the drum) not the plastic Washer Tub Cover which surrounds the drum.

I have a Whirlpool Duet, and despite my best efforts to dry the door gasket and to leave the door open after each load, the door gasket/seal is absolutely disgusting with mold and buildup actually undernearth the gasket when I pulled it out to inspect it today since I’ve been smelling mold during wash cycles.

I won't go so far as to say 100% operator error because I don't have any facts to back that up, but I can share my personal experience: I had that same set for near 20 years, and I never had problems with mold or odor.

I left the door cracked when not in use, and I ran the monthly cleaning cycle. I wash mostly in cold water and use homemade laundry detergent.

When I replaced it, I went with a smaller top-loader. It fits better in my modest laundry /pantry, and I no longer wash the quantity I did when the kids were all at home. I'm just as happy with it as I was with the fancier front-load set.

If I paid Bay Area prices to have someone take my machine apart and replace the boot, I’m halfway to the cost of a new machine!

Yep, when my Whirlpool Duet started dying, my husband ordered parts from Amazon and watched You Tube videos -- nope, he couldn't save the machines. It was a waste of money, and I was without the use of the machines for weeks while he ordered the parts /tried to fix them. I would've been better off to have just gone to buy a new set right away.

In fact, a few months after I bought my new set, I happened into a bit of money, and I actually started a new account at the credit union JUST for appliances. I said I will never again wait and question, I'll just replace.

Wow if that’s what it takes then I’ll be needing to buy a new washer without the rubber boot.

I think I'd be inclined to buy a new washer rather than a new gasket (plus installation ?), given that you're pretty much guaranteed that the new gasket would just end up like the old one. If you do replace the gasket, this may become a regular thing.

I went with my kindergartner to the recycling plant on a school field trip, and I was horrified with the number of laundry detergent jugs. The plant said it was a huge problem, literally.

Yeah, I had the same experience. Minus the kindergartner; it was a teacher workshop -- and a good one. As I said, I make my own detergent -- it "costs" some plastic, but not nearly so much as liquid laundry detergent.

That oughta be way plenty ventilation to dry the interior. There clearly are other factors involved in your mold problem.

Well, maybe. I agree that leaving the door wide open all day should work ... IF you do it from the very first load. If mold was already starting to grow, it might be a case of "too late"? If you super-cleaned it, then left the door open, would that make a difference? I'm guessing here.

I have to get front loading because I already have custom cabinetry with a marble countertop above.

That's a matter of form /looks over function, as it locks you into a specific type and size machine. It also prevents you from pulling out the dryer to really clean the dryer lint, which is a fire hazzard. How attached are you to that countertop?

I remember years ago before liquid detergents was a thing, my washers never smelled. 15 Years ago I started using liquid detergent and my washer smelled like dirty old socks. I actually got rid of a 4 year old top load washer because it smelled so bad and I went out and bought a Speed Queen. Shortly after, it started to smell. I read an article about how bad the liquids were, so I cleaned it and went back to powders. Haven't had an issue since. Think about this, does anyone here remember washing machine cleaners back in the day like they have on the shelves of today??? Plastic jugs. I wonder how many are getting recycled.

There were washers (toploaders) with plastic spin baskets. Some Maytag models which were based on Norge design come to mind. Probably JennAir (which was a clone of Norge). And some Frigidaire, and possibly others. An aunt had a Maytag, per these photos. The pump went bad at 10 years. Simple repair but they replaced the set, she wanted a frontloader. I replaced the pump, refurbed and sold them for her. Her washer was the cleanest I've handled. Note: I believe I had already cleaned the spin basket exterior when the photos were taken but the bit of mineral residue shown on the upper interior is comparable to the exterior condition. Reference also that the outer tub had some mineral residue but no mold or greasy smutz.

I agree with elbits that using liquid detergents instead of powder contributes to the mold issue. I have only used powders in my two front loaders since 1998. Two different washing machine repair guys told me that liquid detergents tend to gum up the machines.

elbits, the actual process of recycling has not really been able to keep up with the amount of items people put into the centers. We watched a program on local TV about recycling in our area, and I believe caught an episode of 60 Minutes at about the same time that had a segment on the subject. Very discouraging. Those plastic jugs for liquids and pods are a problem. I wish that life were perfect and that one could take the container to the store and have it filled with the product. I have always wondered why when we use these things they don't get sent back to the manufacturers to reuse them as is. Fresh new top and they are good to go. I wonder just how many of cardboard boxes of Tide and 30 Mule Team we have used are just sitting at a center someplace.

But as has been pointed out, liquid detergent and Fabric softener are two of the main culprits of moldy washers, top load as well as front load.

>>>>Think about this, does anyone here remember washing machine cleaners back in the day like they have on the shelves of today???

No, but back in the day all the detergents (or maybe 99% of them) were powder detergents.

Powders are disappearing, including the Tide FreeClear Powder. It's available on the internet from sharks who charge an arm and a leg for it. I'll go back to Charlies Soap powder before I do that..

all Powder Laundry Detergent, Free Clear is sold at WalMart ($8)

I remember years ago before liquid detergents was a thing, my washers never smelled. 15 Years ago I started using liquid detergent and my washer smelled like dirty old socks.

Interesting. I've never used liquid, and I've never had a washer that smelled.

Plastic jugs. I wonder how many are getting recycled.

Of the plastic that's turned in to recycling, less than 30% is actually made into something new. The majority is sold to 3rd world countries, who are willing to take it /store it for money. This is not a sustainable system. We must cut down on our plastic use.

I have always wondered why when we use these things they don't get sent back to the manufacturers to reuse them as is. Fresh new top and they are good to go.

I've wondered the same thing. I think it's because we've been conditioned to think we must have all brand-new things -- or else they're dirty.

But, yeah, just think: Every detergent bottle, every shampoo bottle, every soda bottle you've ever used is still out there somewhere.

Powders are disappearing

Thing is, powdered detergent is easy and economical to make.

Good point about the liquid detergent and the excess plastic in recycling/land fill. I hadn’t even thought about using powders with my he machine. Do you just put it in the drum with the clothes? It has never occurred to me. I’ve tried the eco-friendly soap sheets, but they really don’t clean well at all.

@Susie . In my LG front load powder goes in the detergent drawer. You remove the cup that is for liquids. If using liquids and you want to also use a powder additive such as borax then the borax goes into the drum with the clothes.

@Mrs Pete: " I have always wondered why when we use these things they don't get sent back to the manufacturers to reuse them as is."

Can you imagine the logistical nightmare of trying to do this? At every collection point every container would have to be examined to determine its manufacturer, sorted by factory location for the type of product, boxed, and shipped. Can you imagine warehouses in every city and county in the country, filled with boxes, one for each factory, waiting for boxes to be full enough to seal and ship? Can you imagine the receiving end where thousands of boxes would be received, boxes opened, sorted by product, washed and sanitized, and inserted into an assembly line so they could refilled?

Yes I could imagine that. That is what creative problem solving is all about-coming up with methods to solve serious problems with very satisfying results. Better to figure out a way to get these containers back to a logical source and to be reused rather than continuing to fill to the rafters warehouses with jugs and bottles and other types of containers that are not being processed and may ultimately be sent to a landfill when that was what was trying to be avoided all along.

I remember taking glass soda/cold drink bottles of all brands back to the store for those few pennies back on the "deposit". Too bad we don't do that with plastic bottles and jugs.

Cavimum, when I was in college I collected soda pop bottles routinely and took those in. I was working while in college and that extra money helped me have more pocket money. Back then the amount I got was meaningful. I wonder if in today's world it would be compelling to young people.

There is ni moneybin recycling. The costs of trabsportnwpuld far outweigh the cost of new plastic. It would be cheaper to chol them up and burn as fuel. No landfill waste and if proper pollution controls are in place there is little environmental risk.

Plastic bottles can be made from plant based resin as well. It would cost a little more, but it reduce petrolum based resin.

As others have mentioned, I also have never had mold or odor issues. Lots of hot and warm washes, occasional bleach use, and activated OxiClean Laundry Sanitizer powder.

The thing you must know is that a lot of us use exclusively warm and hot washes without damage to clothing. I wash jeans, darks, and black clothing in cold and that is it.

One thing you can try is to use 1 cup of citric acid and run a clean washer cycle. This will help to remove a lot of residue. Probably a good idea to follow up with a load of towels ran on the Sanitize cycle if your machine has one. You will be amazed how clean and fresh your towels will be.

I saw a commercial for Cold Water Tide a few days ago where the actors were doused in mustard or whatever, the clothes put in a FL washer, zoomed in on the dial being set at Cold water, and the articles came out sparking clean. That must be a powerful formulation if it will do that and keep the washer clean and mold free.

Advertisements tend to be exaggerated dramatizations.

I've wondered why there aren't bulk dispensing stations for laundry detergents and other such products for consumers to refill their containers.

" Outside of Miele and Bosch you wont find any washers in the American market that use their onboard heater in any cycle other than Heavy Duty or Sanitize. "

What is your source Luna for this info. Don't think it is accurate..

My Lg heater turns on for other cycles. It does not stay on once it reaches target temp though.

And for those 13 people you do laundry for in your Miele. I think I've read that you have two machines??

I do now have two, yes. Once some of my daughters hit their middle teens some items HAD to be washed a certain way. That coupled with a repair during covid (with parts delays) and I bought another W1. We still dry everything in the one T1. One of the W1s I put downstairs in the utility/furnace room. I cut into the hot/cot copper lines and added the necessary valves and ran the drain over to the floor drain. I have told the girls if they help their mother more with house chores (she is a full time stay at home mom for her job) that I will buy them a dryer. They have to earn it. No vent requirement makes this possible.

We have a little over 8000 hours on the WWH860 (original model) and around 4500 hours on the WXI860. The TWI180 has around 5500 hours on it as of this month.

Before I went back to SQ, I had a US built Bosch. The gasket got moldy. Eventually, I replaced it with a top-load Speed Queen set. You said that you couldn't do that because of your cabinetry. Okay. What can you do?

Before I went back to SQ, I had a US built Bosch set. The washer was large, had plenty of capacity and it still got moldy.

Before that one, I had a set of Bosch European W/D. I sold them with the house. The European unit was smaller. It was high-efficiency and required 220V instead of the 120V. So, I had the electrician run me the appropriate sized line and outlet. This unit did not grow mold. It was a different design. I could do a load of king-sized sheets. I could get four towels and hand towels in a load. I could not do a king-sized duvet. That went to the laundromat. I didn't have a large family with daily loads of laundry. If you kept on top of things, I imagine it would do the job for your family.

One other anecdotal story about laundry. My grandfather contracted TB in WWII. He would have the occasional flare up. The doctor back in the 1960's told the family to invest in a dryer. This was in the days when most families put their wet laundry on the clothesline. The doctor's told my mother that the temperature of the dryer got so high that it would sterilize whatever was dried in it. It was imperitive that our sheets and towels be sterilized. So, we were the first family on the block with a heated-dryer. My SQ dryer gets very hot. Even with a cold wash, I'm pretty sure that the dryer takes care of any pathogens that might be left after a wash. I wouldn't stress about water temperature, it's the dryer temperature that does the trick.

Good luck with the search. I'd call a carpenter and modify the cabinetry. You might be happier in the long run.

How does hot temps in the dryer keep mold out of the washer if either heat or bleach is not used routinely to kill said mold?

My daughter and I each have our own FL Whirlpool washers in the ground level of our duplex. We are each on at least our 2nd machine. In all of the many years we've had this arrangement, we've never had a mold issue. She leaves her washer door ajar, as do I, and I recently began leaving the detergent tray ajar on mine, at the suggestion of the installer of the latest washer. I have never used the clean-out routine and don't know if she has. I use vinegar instead of fabric softener, but she uses regular fabric softener.

We live in foggy San Francisco, use various temperatures of washes, and various types of detergents. Our city water is medium soft.

Thanks all! Great suggestions. Well, this is brand new out-of-state kiln baked cabinetry and a beautiful slab of marble on top, so no I’m not willing to demolish it. I think washing undies/workout gear/sheets/towels on the sani cycle with OxyClean plus being diligent on a monthly cleaning cycle coupled with the door open of course and wiping down the gasket is my best bet. I definitely can’t use smaller Euro units since I do laundry nearly every day as it is, and I’m not willing to sit at a laundromat to wash my CalKing comforter and duvets.

Dadoes and Lomo are spot on. My daily driver is the top of the line Maytag FL and I have never seen or smelled a speck of mold — and I am deathly allergic to three types of mold so pretty sure I’d notice.

The Maytag is cavernous with a true sanitize cycle which I routinely use for bath towels and about every third wash for sheets. 95% of my detergent is powder — I occasionally use Method liquid for delicates and Woolite for woolens. Liquid detergent is the devil.

If I am not using the sanitize cycle, I always run my hot water to the sink tap before starting the machine.

Though I try in general to be environmentally conscious, it doesn’t extend to laundry. I wash almost nothing in cold. (But I do line-dry a great deal.) I run an Afresh cleaning cycle about every six weeks. If I use fabric softener, it is just a smidge of Method.

Good luck to you. Do take a look at the Maytag. I have been extremely pleased.

We’ve found that our mold issues went away when we switched to a powder detergent from liquid. That was the only thing we started to do differently. 🤷‍♀️

Interesting! I never liked powder since i found chunks of it left behind on our clothes, looking especially bad on black and navy, but since I wash our clothes in cold that might explain it. @agnesmatilda do you use powder with cold water on darks?