There are many new LED with only a 2" diameter--I would check them out and see if they will provide enough light--or maybe you can suplement them with wall sconces.
PyramidDG.com

Make sure the bulbs you are looking at for the standard can is rated for use in an insulation rated can. Many are only rated for non-ic rated cans. The combination of lights and dimmers can cause an annoying buzz and strobe effect. All brands are different in this respect. They are getting better every day, though. LEDs have more heat than you are led to believe. That is what all those fins are for. I think the true LED fixture is a safer bet, but I have always recommended using a 5" can with PAR halogen lamps. This is because I can retrofit these cans later to a true LED can from below if necessary. The 4" is a little small to do that. As an electrician, I still think the better LEDs are on the horizon, so I am not a fan of doing the whole house with them yet.

We have customizable LED solutions for all of your needs. If you are reinstalling, I would suggest going LED. The up front cost offsets in time, and halogen fixtures (interchangeable with LED bulbs) are a dying breed. With a high quality (newer tech) LED engine like we offer you get 50,000+ hours out of each engine. They are easily replaced in the future (without having to change the can or any other part of the fixture (easy screw in and out). Our prices are very competitive. Call us and talk to Shannon 727.462.2526 x205 she can help you find the perfect solution, with the Kelvin Temp, CRI and Beam Angle you are looking for. We offer Class I and Class II, IC and Non-IC cans for all of our fixtures. Fixture color is also customizable.

I wanna try this Zaniboni guy for my new house. Hope its not too expensive.

I have been happy with my 6" can conversions.

Do the cans Zaniboni Lighting is talking about have the LED engine integrated? What type of cans?

The cans I'm referring to are meant for ETL installations in a drywall ceiling. We also have concrete pour cans. Here is an example (attached). This is completely separate from the light fixture and it's integrated Engine. For example the fixture that is also attached. Ticke if you need help please give Shannon a call (she is our in house specialist). She can help you with most questions you might have.

727.462.2526 x205

After reading this thread I still dont have a satisfactory answer to which makes more sense. And best on available information, I'd be going with the standard contractor-grade cans and LED retrofits. I would need an incredibly compelling reason to spend $150 per fixture even in my small kitchen project of maybe 12 or so fixtures, and I havent heard it. Zaniboni's beautiful website and pictures notwithstanding. I am also unnerved by th lack of pricing anywhere on your site. It lets me know its probably too expensive for me.

What I got from my contractor was that putting an LED bulb into a low voltage or regular voltage fixture will make it run hotter, therefore shortening the life of the LED bulb. Also they had an issue with the dimming of the LED bulb in non-LED cans. The dimmers are very finicky and can cause a humming noise or the lights to flicker. We went with the LED cans. Haven't gotten that bill yet, but know its going to be a big one.

Ive since added my own cans with LED retrofits. No humming, can't speak to heat but I love them! 1250 lumens per retrofit from Costco.

$150 per integrated light engine LED is really high. We sell Cooper 1100 lumen retrofits for those cans for about $70.00

This is exactly the issue I am trying to get a grip on. Do any low voltage housing suppliers provide validated LED lamps that are known to work without producing noise, increased heat, or decreased life of the LED "retrofit" bulb (if I am using that term correctly here)?

In other words, why is no one (as far as I can tell) providing one-stop shopping on this topic (housing+lighting element+switches)?

Thanks.