If you had white Shaker cabs and Taj counters I could see the problem. The counter and slab backsplash with Modern grain matched darker wood cabs says something different than delicate, imo. The hood will be fully functional and fits the design language. I would put efforts into a sleeker island light and find less noticeable outlet covers. A more comprehensive task lighting plan also. Minimum 450 shadow-free lumens at the counter surface. Home - DMF Lighting Houzz has a product listing. Luxrite 4 Inch LED Recessed Light 18W 5 Color Selectable Dimmable 4-Pack | eBay Cheaper on ebay.

I think it looks great. Anyway you chose a 48“ rangetop, so it has to be paired with a hood that size.

Wow Im amazed (and thankful) for your comments Dan and John. Yes, I started modern and lost myself along the way when it came to light fixtures.. and thats another piece (that was too much to share in one post) that makes having such a huge steel structure tricky.. the fact that i havearge light fixtures that are each fighting for attention

Your vote of confidence means a lot.. im tempted to keep things as-is
Thanks for the pointer on lights and matching /less noticeable outlet covers. Will get something more blended

Also a quick point. The hood I understand is needed for a range this size.. its the duct cover thats throwing me off!

Gorgeous hood. I wouldn't change it. You won't even notice it once the "newness" wears off.

Agree with the others - I think it’s just the shock of the install, wait and settle in - I think it looks terrific, it’s nice to see something different/interesting on here :)

For me the issue is the bathroom type light for that island and the fact it actaully does not light the island . Yes the hood is a bit arge but not horrible anf you have ahuge range I am a bit puzzled since it looks like the vent was stepped down to 8" could be just a camera angle but if that is the case that needs to be fixed that size hood needs 10" venting all the way.We had to have acustom hood extension built too it made n my hood look larger but so much better I think once you start usisng the space you will stop stressing it looks awesome

Change the pendant to a simple LED bar style. Agree with others the hood looks stellar.

The width of the hood is appropriate, and 27-inches front to back helps capture plumes from front burners that might otherwise escape. Whether captured plumes are contained, however, depends on hood air flow rate. Flow rate depends on blower performance vs. all the pressure losses in the circuit from cooktop to outside to inside to cooktop. Outside-to-cooktop flow is called make-up air (MUA) and is required for hood performance, for code compliance, and in many cases for safety.

What is the rated CFM of your internal blower?

Just for fun let's calculate what it should be, assuming an adequate low pressure loss MUA path (active, i.e., blower powered, or passive depending on various factors).

27 x 54 inches provides a 10 sq. ft. hood base. Let's assume that value is the capture area (some of the lamp zone will be effective and some less so). Required specific flow is 90 CFM/sq. ft. so you would want 900 CFM actual flow rate when the blower is on maximum. This will nominally require a 1350 CFM rated blower due to the blower's fan curve vs. the pressure losses in the baffles, duct and MUA path. 1200 CFM would be the lowest plausible blower, and given gas and a griddle, potentially marginal unless the MUA is active or you never sear or stir-fry.

The duct size should keep the duct velocity between 1000 and 2000 ft/min, with the lower number quieter and better if most of the duct is in a warm environment. This range is for balancing grease collection due to impact vs. grease collection due to condensation.

10-inch duct (0.54 sq. ft) will yield a velocity of 1650 ft/min at 900 CFM. I wouldn't go lower in diameter unless there were some architectural limitation that couldn't be overcome.

--- In other news ---

What do the range installation instructions say for island trim vs. wall combustibility distance?

Your soapstone will be safe, but internal wall studs may be at risk from pyrolysis due to thermal conduction through the soapstone unless it is spaced off with an air gap. In any case, the instructions set the inspection and safety requirements.

I would not be happy with the horizontal seam in the stainless steel duct cover. I have that on my outside vent hood over the grill and don't like it, but I won't spend the money to change it since it is outside.

If I was looking at it everyday in my kitchen, I would have a metal shop make me a custom stainless cover with no seams.

I think it looks great and fits the aesthetic beautifully! The horizontal seam wouldn't bother me at all -- it's high, and most people don't look up on a routine basis, that isn't within one's daily line of sight.

Wow - your kitchen is amazing! Yes the duct cover is big, but with those great cabinets, counters, and splash I honestly don't think I'd be noticing that. (However I'm willing to come view it in person with a glass of wine and let you know LOL)

I agree with the others that maybe the island light isn't as amazing as the rest of the kitchen. I'm not sure I'd change it now (lights can be so expensive) but maybe wait until you find something that really wows you. (I may be biased because I started calling my island light "the chosen one" after my designer sent me a picture and after that I didn't see anything I liked as well. I thought it was a splurge but now I'm so glad I got it.)

Also... if you really are a remodel newbie, I'd say your first time was a huge success!

Thank you so so much, all. Every advice on this thread is stellar!!

Patricia, great catch on the 8” duct!! Had the guys come back and redo for 10”

Kaseki, amazing. I feel like I learnt something I really needed. Much much appreciated!
Pretty sure we dont have an airgap.. and the guys doing the installation didnt know what to do about it. Any tips for those?

Haha Chicagoans Would love to enjoy wine wit you over some great conversations!Thats such a kind thing to say (and I so needed to hear it!). Definitely my first ever and its been a HUGE learning curve!

Yesss .. am going to hunt for that one perfect island light. Thought i liked this one a good bit but its become a misfit thanks to my other design choices. Its not you its me!

Looks great! Please post pics with new island light fixture, and cardboard gone. And darker switch plate and outlet covers.

Your kitchen looks awesome. Agree with chispa to have a metal cover made, could be black steel instead of silver, or possibly your cabinet guy could put a veneer over it.

That light fixture seems to be the odd man out. Even this from Amazon would look less retro.

Agree with everyone else. It all looks amazing. I’d also change out the island light. I’d wait to see whether the hood seams bothers you when it’s all done…I feel like you might not notice once it’s complete. The hood size looks appropriate to me.

It has such a powerful presence that it detracts from your stone splash, which I'd much prefer as the star of the show. It looks, especially because of the seam, like the unfinished guts that are to be covered with a material instead of it being a finished piece itself.

I'd have an enclosure built around it that starts at the cabinet line and goes to the ceiling. It will still allow some of the powerful stainless hood to show yet put more of the focus on your splash and cabinets.

Very impressive kitchen. Congrats. If this is all that you feel is off, you've done a great job!

Disagree with the above. But that's taste. If I were lighting this space with this aesthetic, I'd forego a pendant over the island or anywhere else and stick with all recessed and undercab.

I took to using bolded question text in the hope that my questions would be noticed. Perhaps a cellular telephone is in use and longer texts are only as useful as their time on screen.

Repeating the question related to air gaps (see Section 308 of the IMC) : What do the range installation instructions say for island trim vs. wall combustibility distance? If the OP would kindly repeat here the manufacturer's statement from the instructions we can determine whether the rangetop is OK, should be moved out some, or a riser is needed.

On the subject of soapstone. As soapstone lovers mostly all know by now, the use of mineral oil as a coating is beautiful, but transient, as it evaporates away over a period of days or at best weeks. Long lasting dark patina develops only because grease and organic oils slowly end up on the counters where they rancidify (oxidize) into a coating. Soapstone is actually impervious and coatings have to bond to the surface changing its optical reflectivity.

I discovered that grape seed oil, perhaps because in my case it was beyond its best use date, when applied and then wiped off after several minutes to leave a residual thin film, will bond to the soapstone, provide the dark look, and not evaporate off or alternatively act like a peelable varnish on wood. The coating I tried roughly a year ago is still providing its "look." The OP may wish to test this on a soapstone sample.

The difference is between drying and non-drying oils. Mineral oil is non-drying. Other oils (almond is the one I’m most familiar with) are drying, and I suspect grapeseed oil falls into this category as well. Drying oils leave a film behind.

How about this one? I have it right next to. The kitchen and it’s looking too over bearing (as if I dont already have too many overbearing items in the kitchen/great room!)
Its huge as well - 60” diameter but feel is more in line with the aesthetics you all recommend

Thank you for the pointers on countertops 🙏
This happens to be granite. Am guessing the same principles in usage of oil would still apply?

Kaseki, let me read up and get back to you please

How wide is the island?

Its also exactly 60”

And 8’ 10” in length

For soapstone, a drying oil that is optically thick but physically thin is what you want if you don't love reapplying it often.

Don't oil granite. It is normally coated with a special sealing agent by the granite installer. Your granite reminded me of certain soapstones so I made a bad assumption. Note that granites have various degrees of permeability, so slathering grease or oils on them can be an issue if the sealant wears off.