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Anyone with first-hand experience staining alder?

last year
last modified: last year

Anything special that I need to know about staining knotty alder? Any pre-treatment or sanding techniques that the alder requires?

I've been using Old Masters wiping stain and General Finishes Arm-R-Seal with excellent results, will continue to use these.

(posting on Kitchens because of all the knowledgable wood people on there)


Comments (7)

  • last year

    ^^ Looks nice!


    I have to play around with a couple of different woods for a set of interior closet doors DH will make. I really don't want to use red oak, not a big fan of the grain -- he made me a set of doors last year for a different room, he did a nice job but I don't particularly care for the grain (we were careful to choose boards with as little cathedraling as possible, but still...it's oak, the grain is prominent). I do NOT like stained QS white oak, I just don't like it, the rays looks very old-fashioned and stuffy to me, like my long-dead uncle's bedroom furniture set. DH recently made a very nice table out of riftsawn white oak, it stained up beautifully and is nice enough but is very expensive wood for something that's kinda...blah.


    I think what it is is that I like wood that is more rustic-looking. I like the character of knots and such, wood that is more "casual". There's always pine to consider, but I am thinking of staining up some knotty alder sample boards in addition to pine boards to see how that goes. I also might re-visit hickory, I LOVE hickory but last year I did some sample boards in a water-based stain and top-coat and wasn't satisfied with the result -- came out too dark and pretty much completely obliterated the calico affect -- but I'm going to try another sample board with the oil-based materials and different color.

  • last year

    I have stained a lot of soft woods (both technical "softwoods" as well as soft hardwoods), including Doug-fir, pine, hemlock, and yes alder. If I'm going to use a stain that is more than a shade or two off the natural wood color,


    I recommend a pre-stain conditioner for alder to avoid splotching. I prefer dewaxed shellac (usually Zinsser SealCoat) over commerical "conditioners". Within a few minutes of applying the SealCoat, I do a very quick light sanding, and then begin the stain process.


    Your selections of Old Masters wiping stain and Arm-R-Seal are spot on, IMO - those are favorites of mine. They're forgiving with consistently great results.

    porkchop_z5b_MI thanked salex
  • last year

    ^^ Can you tell me why prefer the Zinsser over the General Finishes or Old Masters pre-conditioners?


    Good to hear I'm spot on with the wiping stain and Arm-R-Seal. Water-based products were an absolute bear for me, these are much easier to use for this relative novice, and I like the finish of the Arm-R-Seal much better than the water-based poly, it has a beautiful richness to it.

  • last year

    Other pre-stain conditioners don't seem as effective or consistent for preventing blotch. For most hardwoods that's not a big deal, but for softwoods and alder, it is.

    porkchop_z5b_MI thanked salex
  • 10 months ago

    Well, my alder samples came out pretty good with the General Finishes wood conditioner and the other products mentioned above. But, I just didn't like the resulting colors enough on the alder, too much of the red tone of the wood affecting the colors, and with the conditioner I couldn't get things dark enough. Nice enough results, but just not what I was looking for. Same story with pine.


    I ended up choosing rift sawn red oak for the doors. Now those samples stained up beautifully.

  • PRO
    10 months ago

    Alder really should be spray toned, not wipe stained. It blotches too much, even with a shellac pre treatment.

    porkchop_z5b_MI thanked Monique