Mount two new shades, same as window shades, just above the doorway frame, not screwed into the trim. Sure, they will be taller than the other shades, but that's how door coverings often work. If you need to mount the shades into something sturdier than the wallboard, add a wood trim board between door frame and the ceiling, painted to match the white trim. It will look intentional.

Do you mean mount them on the trim like here? The only issue with that is when I open the door(s) they will hang straight down and not move with the doors.

Fix the dilemma from the outside.

Judy- I’m confused what do you mean?

Sorry...forgot a photo

Mount the shades between the ceiling and the top trim, above the narrow horizontal window.

I’d try mount a shade on a trim piece and then mount that onto the door using heavy duty command strips or the industrial double sided tape.

Do both doors open?

Yes they both open

Adhesive or spring tension rods would not ruin the fiberglass or void the warranty given you position them correctly or secure them around the trim. Some window clings that act as blackout or private film might work as well.

Your best bet is to call the manufacturer and ask them what can be used on it without it breaking_/Being destroyed.

Hi- where would I put the spring tension rod?

I had AI do this for me. What do you think?

Or I guess I could raise rod to at the top of the transom window glass- thoughts?

Yes by spring rod tension I would place it where I marked here in red. It will be albeit very thin rods and preferably one on either side but it will be in the way when opening the door unless you use very thin curtains.

Another option (B) is to remove the hutch and place elsewhere and use that space for a curtain. I marked here in black a long rod that would hold a large stretch of curtain housed on this wall when the doors are closed. And when you open, it wont be in the way.

You might have to either sacrifice ease of use from option A to the loss of the hutch in option B. Unless you opt for window film which would solve both issues.

A spring tension rod won’t work there with the trim as there isn’t enough to latch. Could I mount a rod outside the trim?

An arrangement like this would require relocating the furniture to the left, but it does solve the dilemma.

@A S, yes. The picture I sent with the black lines which I haphazardly drew are the curtains. You will need to move the hutch elsewhere Or use a more narrow hutch there. And place a long thick rod above the door/trim with a brace in the middle. Pull the curtain completely to the left (where hutch was) when opening doors.

If you decide on blackout film have it professional installed to avoid air bubbles or misaligned edges. 2 Magnetic strips applied to the trim above each would allow for an individual shade for each door. I would suggest using the material in solar shades matching color of other window coverings in the room.

Be careful of using solar window film if the doors are new. These films can work to cut heat/UV, but adding any film to new windows/doors will usually void the warranty.

Question…. Wouldn’t it be kinda weird just to just have curtains on the back door but roman shades elsewhere? Plus the fabric on the existing Roman shades is an older fabric and the curtains wouldn’t match the same fabric. I also really need the hutch for storage.

Why not a roller shade mounted above the door hidden behind a nice simple valance in the same fabric as the other shades . I trully see no issue for privacy so heat and UV control can be a nice solar shaded roll down behind that same valance .

What type of valance do you suggest? I have the 2 older Roman shades in the same fabric that can be pulled apart and possibly made into a valance but the only issue with that is the fabric is only as wide as the glass and I’m not sure how that would work because I can’t mount anything directly onto the door.

A simple wood valance, either painted or stained, to hide the shade as Patricia suggests would work. No need to try and match fabrics. There are lots of vendors on Etsy selling them.

If you need the hutch, dont want curtains and cant have the glass voided, I would just be ok with getting temporary rental type fixtures like 3M strips with velcro and putting any fabric you want up.

If you do decide to use curtains or any type of shades, using a thick rod on the wall above with a jutting profile can work too.

These attach to the door frame with velcro and use a cordless magnetic lift system. https://www.lowes.com/pd/KHKFY-Blackout-Linen-Roman-Shade-for-Doors-Beige-Cordless-Lightweight-French-Door-Shade-with-Magnetic-Lift-Easy-Install-Farmhouse-Blind-W-26-x-L/5021911453

Did you see the no-drill curtain rod holder that I posted above.

That’s beautiful Designer Interior South! Would it be weird to keep the hutch (I use it for kitchen storage) and just push it forward maybe 1-1/2” inches or so and let the drapes go behind it a little?

Based on what I can see in your photos there isn’t a ton of room there so moving it off the wall would make it even more cramped. Ideally since your door appears to have the right hand side door the “active” one , if I were coming in to do the window treatments and knowing they would be functional with daily use I would likely recommend removing the hutch and mounting the drapery rod further onto the wall where it is so you can have a one directional drapery stack to the left so there is no blocking onto the active door at all when open.

Could you get a taller, narrower storage solution to replace the hutch? Something that would fit between the stacked drapery.

My current cabinet is 39” wide and this one I found is 29.5” wide. Thoughts on something like this? I use my current one to store extra seasonal glasses, cups etc and mainly for clean kitchen towels and dish rags

The very first thing I suggested was to remove the hutch Because the space between the window and door looks small as it is. Ideally you want about 20 inches minimum to pull the curtain with a rod to the left side like in the image I haphazardly drew.

What is the measurement between that door and the window to the left of the hutch?

39 inches was too large and 30 inches seems still too large, but it depends on how much space is there.

If you absolutely need the hutch or a similar hutch for organization, you might be better off putting a rod above the door and just having the curtains sit inside the door frame. It will be a little annoying to move the curtain while exiting but it won't be that much of an issue. Unless you find a slim hutch to store your items.

Just curious - what is the warranty you are referencing? Are the doors brand new? What manufacturer?

As SF suggested above, calling the manufacturer might be a good idea.

That is a beautiful secretary. Is it possible to do it here where your current chest is? It would free up that wall. What is on the other side of your kitchen? Is there space there?

What is the width of your door? It looks minimum like 6' but usually they are 8'. Its hard to say from your photo. On an 8' width you stack back on the drapery panels is typically 20-30". Depeding on bulk of fabric I would figure minimum 15" each side for the split panels and 30" for a one way panel. . It really depends on whether you want any of your door to be covered or if you want them to just cover the casing.

Here is the other side of the table. The cabinet in the keeping room is much too wide for that space. The door (casing to cashing) a little under 6 feet. That secretary is no longer available but do you think if I found something more narrow like that it would work in lieu of the existing hutch? My main concern as well is that overtime the sun will alter the color of my hardwood floors as it’s a very sunny room which is why I need some sort of coverage there.

Another angle

Perhaps something even narrower like this would work https://www.chairish.com/product/4777356/english-mahogany-cabinet