One last picture with more room dimensions.

I have almost the same footprint and I'm putting in a microwave drawer. I think you should you should have a range hood.

A combination microwave/range hood can be an efficient use of space. We have these in almost all of our suites.

You can easily put a wood hood vent there and vent it to the outside. If you using decorative wood panels on other cabinet or the island sides, you can do the same on the Ref side... keep in mind that decorative panels can bring the cost up of $500 or more, depends how many you will have in your kitchen, but they do make a huge difference.

Good luck.

Not sure from the plan which are doors vs. windows, except at sink and bar which have to be windows. It looks like you've boxed yourself into the work area with the bar. Personally, I always look to put the fridge and sink together for ease of offloading and prep of foods, Consider placing a counter depth fridge left of the sink and DW to the right. Fridge will also have easy connection to water supply for an icemaker. In the fridge's place come out perpendicular to the wall with your bar. This will make for an open "U" space and you may find you can make the bar longer with more storage than you presently show it. Is the wide opening a slider or a large entry into another room? Is that a back door by the fridge or a door to another room? Please inform about the window/door placement for better suggestions. Is this a new build or a remodel?

My experience with micro-hoods is that they don't move a lot of air and they are slightly out of reach over the range. I think you have done a very nice job with the layout but my vote is for a different location for the micro. Typically, I opt for a wood hood enclosure with a blower by Vent-a-Hood inside. With the traditional styling of your kitchen, the wood hood enclosure will compliment the design nicely. See below for a kitchen I finished last year that has a footprint even smaller than your kitchen. Also, I'd probably forgo the decorative panels for the frig and DW. They can be spendy and I think the marketplace prefers stainless appliances at this point.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I'll try to respond to everyone's comments or suggestions.

sbryan26, Good luck with your remodel. If I do a range hood, just need to decide to do with the microwave. I'm not a fan of microwave drawers. Just my preference.

GN Builders, Currently the only decorative door panel that the current design has is on the exposed end of the peninsula. The exposed back has bead board. Depending on who the cabinet manufacturer is, decorative sides can be very expensive which I've found out.

decoenthusiaste, This is a remodel. I've attached a layout of the first floor so you can see where the openings lead to. Not sure if the dw would fit to the right of the sink. Also, I had to purchase a new fridge(full size) about 18 months ago since my 25 year old Montgomery Ward died so not looking to buy another one. Placing the fridge to the left of the sink would leave about 9" between the fridge and sink.

Shuler Architecture, thanks for the complement on the layout. Nice job on the kitchen that you posted. Curious, where is the microwave in that layout? Also, what size is the kitchen? Where would you suggest putting the microwave in my kitchen.

ProSource Memphis, I agree with wood hoods being expensive. Conestoga wood hoods start around $300 unfinished with the insert liner. It's not fancy my any means at all. I've attached a picture for reference.

At cabinet 1 you could make that a wall-oven-microwave cabinet, you have plenty of space and it would create symmetry to the space to balance out the refrigerator.
As far as door panels in the refrigerator end, if you plan on adding those to the edge of the peninsula it could definitely dress up the space.

Cindy, Thanks for the suggestion. There are two different types of microwave wall cabinets. I assuming you me the micro cabinet that is 18" or 21" deep instead of the micro cabinet with the shelf for the micro.

You've left out some doors, but would you benefit by closing off the door from the kitchen to the entry? That could gain you some additional counter space. The bar could float in the center of the space perpendicular to the sink and the hall to the dining room.

I hung a cabinet over my cooktop with a valence to conceal the insert. The valence had to be built out with sides. Although not a wood hood, it has the same feeling and I have a lot of storage inside the cabinet.. My microwave is in the island.

decoenthusiaste, There are three doorways in the kitchen. Right of the fridge leads into the entry, on the opposite wall leads into the family room and on the right wall that leads into the hall that has the utility room, 1/2 bath and leads to the dining room. I wouldn't benefit by closing of the doorway that leads to the entry. I would have to walk through the living room, dining room and hall to get into the kitchen or family room.

dldavidl8, closing off most the doors is not an option and there is no way to move them anywhere.

linhess, clever idea with the cabinet and valance. Looks nice being a different color then the cabinets too. I can guarantee that was probably cheaper the buying a wood hood. I don't understand the high costs on some of the simpler wood hood which some look like just a cabinet dressed up a bit.. On the more elaborate I can understand the higher costs.

Couple of thoughts:

1) wood hood looks great but would likely cost $1,500 or more.

2) I'm doing Conestoga full overlay painted white, all plywood construction, maple faceframes and birch drawer boxes. My cabinets will cost about $7,000 but comparable from Schuler or Kraftmaid would have cost $15-20,000. I will gladly pay $100 to rent nail gun/compressor and spend 8 hours on a Saturday "earning" $1,000 or more an hour.

3) refining an order for Conestoga cabinets can be tedious especially with a fairly tight budget. Prices are not published. Prices vary considerably by door style. On my cabinets, the cost difference between an exposed (finished ) side and furniture end is negligible.

4) when you have your dream configuration done, thecabinetauthority.com has a great quotebuilder that let's you pick out species, finish, door styles, the specific cabinets, etc and they will email you a quote within a business day.

5) just like when buying a car or other major purchases, get a quote from another dealer for the exact order. I would suggest thecabinetjoint.com.

There are things I like about both...they both generally have great customer service...but in different ways.

halbraswell, thanks for the information.

Curious, what door style are you going with.? Also, how does your layout compare to mine? I Have 16 cabinets.

From researching, I've come across the two that you mentioned plus northerngraniteandcabinetry.com and http://cabinetmakerschoice.com which someone at work has used them previously.

I'm using TW 30 (a recessed arch) for uppers and TW 10 (a Shaker style) for lowers.

We are doing a galley kitchen and will have the pantry in a closet at one end (we are combining current kitchen space with home office.

Base cabinets include 2 30" drawer bases, a 15" 1 drawer/1 door, 39" sink base, 3 30" 1 drawer/2 doors and a refrigerator enclosure with cabinet above. Uppers include 5 30" X 30", a 15 X 30, and 70" valance. Also 2 upper fillers and 2 base fillers, toe kicks, light rail and small crown molding.

Here are renderings (not true cabinet fronts), the uppers are shown taller and the valance is just 6" tall.

halbraswell, Thanks. Good luck with your kitchen. Looks good. Curious, is there any reason you're only doing 30" uppers?

We have 8' ceilings (96"). 42" leaves no room for electrical for over sink light, and our wireless/directv enter the house there. 36" uppers give a 6" gap between ceiling that is useless and would require a soffit and look awkward either ending or extending over the door to the back yard (to the right of the pantry closet). Plus 36" doesn't really gain an extra shelf. 30" gives the same practical storage as a 36, my wife is about 5'6", and we can put a galley rail on top for flowers, nic naks, etc. cost difference for all uppers being 36 instead of 30 was only about $237, which may be more with other door styles and finishes. With higher ceiling would have gone 42, but trying to create a more open feel. The 30" uppers takes the top to 84", which allows a band of SW Fun Yellow to show between the white cabinets and white ceiling.

I received some preliminary pricing on two different hoods from a Conestoga reseller. The entry hood was $345 and the fancier one was $1005. Both prices were quoted being finished. I didn't think the pricing was bad. I'm posting pictures of both hoods.