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Blossom End Rot

15 years ago

The dreaded black bottom. It's happening to my Roma tomatoes and Squash. I have 5 kinds of tomatoes growing and the Romas are the only ones with blossom end rot.

Does anyone know if Romas are more susceptible than other types of tomatoes and if so, why? I've had this happen before w/ my romas.

My yellow summer sqash are doing it too.

I don't think this is a watering problem so I'm inclined to think it's a calcium difficiency. Unfortunately, I'm finding that calcium takes a while to make a difference. Is there something I can do now that will help? Seems like I've heard of smashing up sidewalk chalk and sprinkling that around the tomato plants????? I have tons of Romas out there and sure don't want to loose them to the dreaded black butt! (ditto on the squash!)

Thanks everyone!!!!

Happy gardening!

jennifer

Comments (8)

  • 15 years ago

    One of the most common questions on this board. We just had a discussion a week or so about it.

    Dan

  • 15 years ago

    Actually it is the most common question asked on the Growing Tomatoes forum here too. So much so that there are several discussions running there on it right now. Not to mention a FAQ on it. So I suggest some reading over there for lots of details.

    A quick summary of all the info is

    no, it is not a calcium deficiency.

    Yes it is a consistent soil moisture problem and goes away all on its own just as soon as the soil moisture levels are stabilized and the plant matures a bit.

    Yes, paste tomatoes are more prone to it because of their shape and the different circulation that form causes. That is one reason why so many experienced gardeners don't waste their efforts on paste-type tomatoes.

    Yes, container tomatoes are more prone to it than in-ground plants.

    And no, there is no quick fix despite all the garden myths to the contrary.

    I don't think this is a watering problem

    But it is. The moisture in the soil must be consistent - not too much and not too little. No periods of wet soil followed by dry soil or vice-versa. This is why heavily mulching the plants helps a great deal and so does a drip irrigation system on a timer.

    Over-watering is just as bad as under-watering. Weird weather patterns complicate it and it is most common in young plants. Once the weather stabilizes, the plants mature a bit, the soil is well mulched and watering patterns are stabilized it disappears - like magic. :)

    Dave

    Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato forum

  • 15 years ago

    As concerns your squash, most likely lack of pollination.

  • 15 years ago

    I notice that BER usually strikes the first tomato every year for me...excluding Sun Golds. I am wondering if this also is a pollination problem rather than all the other usual excuses for it...just saying.

  • 15 years ago

    Believe it or not but spraying with milk diluted with water (50/50) on the leaves will give it a Ca rush and stop end rot (1;5 ratio to the roots).I know of a gardener who does it because they only grow with the tomato MG fertilizer that lack in Ca. The garden is thriving with just milk and the MG tomato food.

  • 15 years ago

    not a lack off calcium but the distrbution (SPELL CHECK) of calcium through out the plant. poor watering will cause that.imo
    like dave said it will clear up.

  • 15 years ago

    As a victim of this I will attest to the weather conditions being the major culprit. I am still waiting for sun and for the ground to regulate itself from the steady dumping of rain.

    One issue that confuses me especially reagarding the tomato watering information is the multitude of comments I have seen posted about tomatos needing consistent watering. I have read an equal number that suggests that deep waterings are required with periods of the ground drying out???? I am so confused over these two contradicting statements.

  • 15 years ago

    One issue that confuses me especially reagarding the tomato watering information is the multitude of comments I have seen posted about tomatos needing consistent watering. I have read an equal number that suggests that deep waterings are required with periods of the ground drying out???? I am so confused over these two contradicting statements.

    The confusion comes from misunderstanding the first part. The point isn't that tomatoes need "consistent watering" but that they need consistent soil moisture levels. Those are not the same thing.

    In other words, you MUST monitor the moisture level of the soil at the root level rather than just automatically watering the plants. Is the moisture level that same at 6 pm as it was at 9 am? Not likely.

    To keep the moisture level consistent may mean checking the soil 6" down 1x a day for in ground plants or 3x a day for raised beds or 6x a day for container plants when it is 95 degrees and sunny and applying water or NOT as needed.

    In addition to the weather, consistent soil moisture levels are also affected by type of soil and how well it drains, size of container if in containers, depth of raised bed, size and age of the plant, etc.

    Do you think a 12" tall tomato plant needs as much water as a 5' tall plant with fruit on it does? Does a plant with set fruit on it need more or less water than a plant with no fruit set? Does a plant in a 5 gallon bucket need more or less water than one in a 15 gallon container? If you got an inch of rain yesterday do you need to water today? Tomorrow?

    Those are are all CONSISTENT SOIL MOISTURE LEVEL issues and you can only answer the questions by sticking your finger deep into the soil and checking it.

    Hope this helps eliminate some of the confusion.

    Dave

    PS: As Terry said it isn't lack of calcium. Lab tests show plenty of calcium in BER tomatoes. It just isn't distributed equally throughout the fruit. And if spraying with milk is a cure for BER then someone sure needs to let our commercial tomato industry know so they can quit spending millions of dollars annually on research to eliminate the problem.