I think it would be lots of full sun.

I had them under fluorescent lights.

How long are you running the lights? Are you fertilizing the plants? Do you move them to cold frames? If so how old are they?

Many of mine seemed tiny for transplanting, but I had a bunch that were extras, hardened them off and planted them in a bed I expected the gophers to attack.
The gophers stayed away and those tomato plants went nuts!I hadn't staked them, cause I didn't expect them to make it, but they did great! Nancy

This was last Feb/March/April. I had the light on for 12 or 13 hours a day. I turned it on when I got up, and turned it off at or around the time I went to bed.

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I think you're gonna have to give more specifics. For instance, did the peppers stop growing at two inches or six inches? What's tiny for some folks might be just the right size for others.

I use a very weak solution of liquid fertilizer on seedlings and have to water frequently (every 2-3 days) because the soil dries out so quickly.

I also try and keep the seedlings in a cool place (around 60-65 degrees) so they don't grow too fast and get leggy.

You may also need to transplant seedlings from the starting medium to larger containers so they don't get root bound.

Hope this helps.

A couple of more thoughts on the subject:

Record keeping - the first few years I grew my own transplants, I had to adjust the planting dates to have stuff ready to go into the garden on time. Peppers, for instance, are really slow growers and I had to plant earlier to get them ready. Cabbage is another slow grower. Tomatoes get good sized really quick. You'll need to keep track and adjust accordingly each year.

Seedlings always seem to do better outside. I use a little mini-greenhouse in full sun and try to keep my stuff outside as much as possible. But it does get to be a lot of work bringing everything indoors for bad weather.

@txtom If I remember correctly, they only got to about 3" tall and they only grew their first set of true leaves. I was growing California wonder 300. I started around the first week of March. Should I start earlier?

Like I said, I'm pretty good at getting the seeds to sprout (except for the Canteloupe I tried). The only science I need to master is watering properly and getting the plants to grow large before transplanting.

I read on a website that you should plant the seeds in larger cups or pots or whatever so they will be in the same pot until they are transplanted.

I sow all of my seeds very closely in a temporary seeding flat, which is heated with cables. Once they have germinated and have developed a small stem, I transplant them into plastic cell packs. They are not given bottom heat in the cell packs, but given plenty of light. They grow happily until that point when I can take all of the flats (holding the cell packs) outside until planting time.

At transplanting, the seedlings are only a couple of inches tall, if that...depending upon the kind of plant. The stems should be sturdy and stocky and easy to handle. If I keep the bottom heat on them too long, they become elongated and unhealthy.

The seeding flat will contain a fairly fine-textured medium...one that is useful for germination and not much else. The cell packs are filled with a coarse textured, fast draining potting mix more like what I would use for container gardening. Such a medium encourages the rapid development of a sturdy root system which equals lots of great top growth. 12 of my little 4-pack cells fit into one plastic flat for a total of 48 plants. That size makes a perfect little plant for transplanting to the outside when it's time.

Fertilization begins as soon as they are transplanted into the cell packs. Since the seedlings remain in their germination flat for just a couple of days or after emerging, I don't usually bother before then.

I believe that cool temperatures and high light are both important, too. Back when I was growing bedding plants for the spring, I kept the greenhouse in the 50s or even cooler at night.

So, you think warmer temps would delay growth? I had plants inside where the furnace was around 71F or so the whole time, and most of the time they were in the kitchen where it would get warmer.

Rhizo definitely knows her stuff. She has been instrumental in teaching me about this, and the last several years, I have successfully started 20 flats of vegetables and/or flowers twice a year.

Here are a few other things to add to the ones above. As stated above, peppers need to be started from seed 10 to 12 weeks before they will go outside, as they are definitely slower growing. They need warm temperatures (or bottom heat as rhizo says) for germination, but then should be kept on the cooler side for best growth: mid sixties to low seventies is about right. Tomatoes are similar. They need warmer temps for germination than for growing on. Also, alot of the folks on the tomato forum run a small fan on their tomato seedlings to help them bulk up their stems. I intend to try that this year.

Do not overwater seedlings! (This goes for flowers too) Stick your index finger into the soil up to the first joint, or in cells, just press down firmly on the soil. Then rub your finger together with your thumb. If you can feel moisture, wait to water. I rarely need to water seedlings more than once a week. Depending on the medium I use and how warm the air is, it can be every 8 to 10 days. This is far more important than you would ever dream. Also, don't let your plants sit in trays of water for the same reasons.

I have my flourescents on timers so that they run sixteen hours a day. Also, you need to keep the bulbs no more than 3 inches from the tops of the plants.

I have found that seedlings like organic fertilizers best. Sometimes I mix Blood Meal into the potting medium, and sometimes I use liquids. But for whatever reason, they always seem to grow better with organics versus synthetics.

I agree with rhizo. I do not start fertilizing until they have their first set of true leaves and have been pricked out into their pots. I have tried pricking out into cells and into four inch pots. I don't see alot of difference in growth, as long as the plants don't get root bound. I like to put tomatoes into deep narrow pots. Their root systems always seem to be stronger that way.

If you grow eggplants, you need to know that these require very warm temperatures to germinate, like eighty or more degrees. Last year I had great results by putting a lightstand into a small bathroom and running a space heater in there for a few days. I had the best germination rate ever. They need continued warm temperatures (low to mid seventies) to grow on.

Finally, it's important to use quality seed. This would seem obvious, but the first few times I really tried seed starting seriously I was very disappointed with germination rates. I thought it was me until I read a review on one of these forums of the seed company I had purchased from. The poster said that company's seed had a much lower germination rate. The next year I bought seed from another vendor and have never had another problem.

Seed starting is great fun! I hope it goes well for you...