I would like to see the sketch.
That is why I hate closet doors next to the entry door; not just because one door blocks the other one but also you can not place something nice, like artwork for a nice first impression.
I do not recommend to swing the entry door out.

In some areas, it's against code for exterior doors to swing out.

If I'm understanding your description, this sounds like a case in favor of bi-fold doors on the closet. You don't want a regular door to access 6' closet because too much would be unreachable. Bi-folds would permit access to at least 3' of closet even when the exterior door is blocking.

I don't quite understand why the exterior door must be hinged so that the swing-open blocks the closet. Why not hinge on the opposite side?

Yes, a sidelight could be used if it integrates with the exterior styling.

There are entry doors that swing out and they have special hinges that are locked in a way so not just anybody can remove the door. I grew up with all outswing doors and people such as guests get used to have to move out of the way. It also help if you have space on the side and if the door bell is on that side etc.

As for side light. It will look different from the outside most likely due to the different lights in the two spaces even if the glass is opaque. Not sure I'd like that one myself. If you're considering re-sale then I would avoid doing that.

Could you shorten the closet some for the space next to the sidelight (with 1/2 type side lights) and put a short bench to sit down on with maybe some storage underneath. Maybe 18-24". This would be less collision of doors as well, although you could open the door towards somebody sitting there.

I think you'll just learn to get ready and then open the door if it is in-swing, more energy efficient that way too.

Another option is to have side panels that don't have windows and only have a window in the door for symmetry.

You can have a door swing out and not have the hinge pin problem. My french doors swing out. But the problem with swinging outward doors is that they are more prone to leaking. That is why I wouldn't use one again.

I figured out how to upload photos! Thanks for the feedback (even w/o photos). I just uploaded an elevation and a plan view onto the Photo Gallery. Titles start with "Entry doorway".

In the plan view you can see the small entry foyer, closet on the left, angled doorway, and narrow wall between the entry & LR. And yes, I have wondered about shortening the closet. It's 6', so we could do with less and perhaps have a bench "landing area" for backpacks & library books....

As far as the door swing, yes, you can get outswing with hidden hinges. With a 15' garage wall to the left of the entry, wind wouldn't be much problem. The 6' porch is covered- should help with leaks. Still I can't tell if an outswing would work well, or be inconvenient.

Need to decide tomorrow, so I sure do appreciate all your comments & ideas!

I'm sorry, but I have no idea where you uploaded the elevation and plan to? Which photo gallery?

I uploaded it onto "Home Galleries", "My favorite room". That seemed the closest fit :-(. The photos are still the two most recent ones up there, so to see them I select "Most Recent Photos".

Thanks for asking and following up!

Where is the Home Galleries ?? This site, some other site?

Are these the ones?

Front elevation

plan

I don't like the idea of the fake side as it would be obvious to me and look funny. Can you do a different type transom that doesn't require the sides. Maybe an eyebrow type transom just over the door. Or how about a pentagon, hexagon, or the likes window above it.

Seeing the height too of the stoop I'm not sure I'd want to do a outswing door, although with the arrangement of just one side light you would make people stand more to that side naturally, but if a few then some will have to step down on the stairs. My grandmothers house was like that and my sister almost fell down the stairs once because she wasn't paying attention to the door opening.

Another option would be to just do a front door and then where you have the current side light have a window centered on the wall instead.

You could also get away with just doing the door and flank the sides of the door with lights and put potted plants on each side.

Thanks Lyfia!

that's them, and thanks for including the links; that's what I didn't know how to do within the posting.

Porch & door swing:
We're planing to have the 6' porch be essentially at the same level as the door, and then a set of stairs with 19" treads. Still, if we got a 3' outswing door, folks would only have 3' of porch to stand on, and steps down behind those 3'. Ok, sounds like inswing is the right way to go.

Sidelite:
I really prefer one sidelite to none. I like the extra light, and like the glass design in which the arc continues onto the sidelite. If both can't work, I'd rather still just use the R one and find another way to balance the entryway visually. But what if we shorten the closet and put in an 18" bench as you'd also suggested (or a plant), would that solve the problems?

Can you switch the console and closet locations? It'd give you a much more spacious entry, although it looks like you put the wall where you did to close off the view into the kitchen, which is understandable.

If not, can you add ~2' across the front and move the closet to the wall opposite the front door? Then you could have the 2 side lites, which I think you must have if you are going to use the 3-lite symmetrical configuration over the door.

It doesn't look like you've left enough width/space inside the wall cavity with the measurements you have indicated for the Solatube. Is it going from the roof through the 1st floor to the basement?

In the kitchen, it usually is better not to have the ovens and fridge right next to each other.

Anne

Yes Anne,
that wall is there to close off the view into the kitchen (DH's request). Those interior walls are now built (the closet & entry aren't, 'cause I waffled, mea culpa). I am a bit concerned whether the entry will feel too enclosed, but it's done. We're at the max square footage for our suburban lot. The only thing we still could do is to replace the open doorway to the kitchen by a pocket door , to hedge our bets re: the entryway wall, if the space turns out too cramped. But I hope not.

For the Solatube chase (into the basement) we've got 14.5", just enough clearance for a 14" Solatube . We and the Solatube contractors evaluated that carefully. We've seen it in another house, and it made a huge difference, so I'm very pleased with THAT decision.

Thanks for the brainstorming & sanity checks, and the advice about the sidelites & transom windows.

If you do a bench and shorten the closet or just a plant there then it should look fine from the outside. Just if you close off the area the light will be obviously different.

You can then do two side lights as well.

One other option would be if you want to do just like the front drawing shows with one sidelight and the transom flanking on each side is to build the closet so that it doesn't go all the way to the ceiling and won't block that transom. It would be a dust collector on top though.

Another option to not lock you into a particular configurations would be to use IKEA PAX closets in that space or a freestanding type armoire, smaller doors, plus you don't have to decide now if it looks too cramped.

Thanks Lyfia! All three ideas could work well. The closet wall currently would be between the two transom windows, so it wouldn't block either. Still, I especially like your idea of putting in a nice PAX closet, at least initially.

A 59" (or 49") PAX closet, with a bench or plant in front of the left sidelite. I think that could work very well (if DH will be willing to be unconventional. I'm from Europe, so I'm quite used to wardrobes and no closets). I've been wanting to do a closet organizer anyway, so PAX could accomplish that. And, as you'd said, it means we could see what the space really feels like after we move in.

This makes me wonder whether the entry door should be 2'8" rather than 3'0" wide. A smaller door might make the space feel larger ... and would leave more of the closet accessible. I'd assumed that 3' was more practical for bringing in fridges, couches, etc. But if 2'8" is a standard, then there must be other ways movers cope with massive furniture. Thanks! Very interesting ideas for me to sleep on. :-) (Yawn).

LOL infohound I'm from Europe too (specifically Sweden). I prefer the free standing closets because they have so many options for configuring the interior that I alway feel they fit more than the space wasted with a built one without all the built-in stuff.

I wouldn't do a smaller door, unless you have space with wider doors where you can get in furniture, refridgerators (although these are becoming wider and wider), other appliances etc. If you do have another place that would be more convenient to bring these items in then you can probably get away with a smaller door, but if you don't then I wouldn't.

Oh one more thing on freestanding wardrobes. You'll be saving some inches in not having to build the wall for the closet too. A free standing one will take up less inches than the wall would. Also since each would have doors that aren't so wide you'd have less collision opportunities too.

Lyfia,

Thanks for the advice. 30" door it is.

How is it that a freestanding wardrobe would save inches? Since we do have a wall on the right side in any case?

Should have built two 3' wide closets on each side of the door

Houzz was around 15 years ago?

Probably Garden Web or That Home Site.