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summertime1_gw

Total newbie needs remodel layout help

13 years ago

Hi,

Hope you can help me with a kitchen remodel for our 1990 home. We would like to work with a local custom cabinet maker who also designs kitchens. I agreed to his plan until I started taking some measurements and realized what he was proposing wouldn't quite fit in our kitchen (or so I think).

Here is our current kitchen. (not quite to scale, but hopefully enough to give you an idea).

Our kitchen designer/ cabinet maker suggested removing the cabinets/ closest pantry, and associated short walls that frame them at the base of the drawing (proposed deleted items highlighted in yellow). The long wall at the bottom would be empty, and we would extend the perpendicular wall on the dining room side by several feet toward the long base wall to form a "U shape" with a larger island. We would also delete the single window (currently above freestanding printer cart), which would allow corner cabinets that would extend around the corner and down the wall where the dinette currently is.

Here is where I need the help:

In our cabinet-maker's original drawing, the island was 42" x 60", and supposedly had seating for 3. Now I already know from reading this forum that 60" would only give seating for 2. When I measured, it seems to me that the island is too wide at 60" - aisle space would be only 31" at best on either end. So now we are down to 42" x 50"(?) to make it work? I guess this is not the "big island" that I had envisioned. Also, concerned there is enough room for a walkway behind island/ seating given that this is a major traffic flow route to the rest of the house. Also hesitant to lose the window, but agree it makes sense.

FYI, DH and I are middle aged, no kids or grandkids. The house is a contemporary, largely open except for the kitchen, and built for 2, or maybe 3 people max. I am the only cook (and largely cleanup person), and we do not do a ton of entertaining. I make mostly quick meals and have no need for high end stove, etc. I really like the island concept and would like to make this work if possible. BUT I am open to any ideas that you guys have.

Specific wants:

- I do paperwork in the kitchen� would be nice for place for printer, etc

- Want to replace current (32") fridge with 36"

- Prefer sink by window as is current but could be negotiable

- No major moving of current walls (except revision as proposed)

- Place for a smallish TV if we keep island design.

Hope someone can help.

Thanks.

ps... this is my first attempt at scanning in drawings and embeding.. if they are not readible, please comment and I will redraw them.

Comments (16)

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    It would help if you could redraw your current kitchen, using the grid of the graph paper to help put it in proper scale... Like make every square equal 6", so that your 26" wide island isn't larger than your 32" fridge or 34" aisle, etc. It's just easier to see how things can relate if they're the proper size.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Thanks for your input, rhome.
    I have redrawn my present kitchen to scale and hope this makes it easier to see what I have to work with.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    This plan is a definite improvement over your existing kitchen lay-out.

    However, I think your island needs to be 44-48" wide at most. A CD fridge sits about 29" deep (to door face, not including handles). If you leave a 42" aisle between fridge and island and between range wall counter and island, you'd have a 44.5" island (assuming 1.5" counter overhang). If you shrank the aisles to 40", you'd have a 48.5" wide island. If your range sits deeper than the counter (some do, especially pro-style ranges), your aisle will be even less than that. You could curve the seating overhang for the island, which would give you a bit more breathing room for 2 seats at a 44.5" wide island.

    I calculate that you'll have 51.5" between island and wall, which is more than suggested by the NKBA for an aisle wide enough to walk behind diners (that's 44") so you have room to do a curved seating overhang.

    I'd swap the DW and trash. This gets the DW out of the prep zone and puts the trash handy to the prep zone.

    If you aren't getting a counter depth fridge, then you need to shrink your island even more. Standard depth fridges can be as much as 35" deep to doors, not including handles.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I'm wondering about an L, with the stove where the 30" cabinet is between the windows. That would allow a longer island and would provide prep space across from the island. The bottom wall could have shallower storage to leave more room for a deeper island?

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I am wondering about opening up the DR wall almost completely and creating an L with the right side. Then you could do an extended island and the shallow depth cabinetry along the bottom.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Might be nice to do the L configuration-place the stove at the top to the right of sink as Rhome described. Use the lower part of kitchen for table -better to view out the larger window scape and the table will be set apart from the busy part a little more.[take out the one short wall by hallway] Do you need more than that full pantry storage area? You could supposedly do some tall shallow depth storage off to the rt where table was. I think that 183 in wall with table and most cabinets pulled off it could be a nice visual focus with art/paint color/maybe open shelves above table...really give the seating in your space a little more emphasis. A samller household means you don't have to fill up every inch with cabinets. I think the L seems a little preferable to a large U....more open..and more comfortable with a table vs. island and no table.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Thanks to you all for the suggestions!...I really appreciate your thoughts.

    Remodelfla, I believe that wall is load-bearing, and we have ruled that out, as it has been suggested before.

    Not sure about the "L" concept. Isn't this quite a bit of lost cabinet/ counter space? I guess if we give up all/most of that lower wall storage, it has to go somewhere. We currently have narrow (9") top cabinets on the bottom wall, and I have to say I find them pretty challenging to use...so the idea of adding narrow storage there is not my first thought.

    I'm going to draw this out and mull it over though..I'm one if those people who has to see it laid out to envision it ;)

    Again, so appreciative of the help...you've got me thinking!

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    It's all in trade-offs and what matters most to you. Try drawing up the L and see what you think. You'll get more seating. You'll get more storage and counter on the island to partly replace what you lose on the wall. The countertop will be deeper and more accessible. You'll get a better layout without going 3/4 the way around the island every time you go from stove to fridge and back. Only you know if those things are more important than the storage you may lose.

    Plus, like I mentioned above, you may be able to install some shallow storage on the bottom wall that could provide the office storage you need and more kitchen storage, too.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Here's what I think rhome is suggesting:

    I reduced the island to 40.5" deep - 24" cabs, 1.5" counter overhang, 15" seating overhang. If you add decorate panels under the overhang, you'll need to increase the island to 41.5" deep.

    You have room for a 72" wide, 9" deep, 84" tall pantry cab on the bottom wall. This provides about 3 sq ft more storage space than a 24" wide, 24" deep, 84" tall pantry cab. If you can add a header to this wall and recess a 12" pantry cab into the wall by 3", you'll gain more storage - about 10 sq ft more - without giving up any floor space.

    I guessed that the doorway to the DR is the same width as the existing doorway to the LR - 46.5". I placed the fridge 4" in from the doorway, which is how I came up with 32" for the cab between fridge cab and corner Susan.

    Here's another option with a corner sink:

    This gives you more room between sink and range and allows you to keep the far right window with the range placed between the windows.

    Now's the time to play with options. Paper dreaming is cheap ;-) plus trying various plans on for size helps you determine which lay-out is the right one for you.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Might even be worth it in Lisa's drawing A to leave the enough room to the left of the doorway to run the shallow storage all the way over to the left...The fridge would end even with the front of the island. You'd have lose part of the 32" base cabinet. It's good storage, but the countertop isn't as necessary there, so might be worth giving up.

    It'd be nicer, in face to move both doorways so that they didn't hug the wall and you'd get a nicer path and full use of the bottom wall. You could have a pullout printer shelf incorporated in the wall storage somewhere.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    What great idea's! I truly feel like I have won the lottery to have such expert help with this.

    Lisa, thank you for drawing those two plans.. I don't think I really understood how this could give me a bigger island, which is how I can get the some of the storage space back (see, I am a very concept-challenged newbie!). But I get it now, and must say that you have all have opened my eyes to a whole new way of thinking. I especially like "B" ( I would get to keep my other window) but have to reckon with the sink situated without a "direct" window view. Do you think it would look odd to have a sink that close to a window, yet not directly opposite? I gather there would just be a base cabinet there. Will need to wrestle with this for a while.

    Rhome, your pantry storage with modifying those walls a bit makes a lot of sense. I have been cruising through this site and others looking at shallow pantries.. would have never thought of it. Think my printer (12" wide" ) might not fit, but probably could go in the island somewhere.

    So many fun "problems" to solve.. thanks again!

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Oh, great idea, rhome!

    Summer, sinks don't have to go under a window. A poster here asked not that long ago to see photos of kitchens with sinks not under a window. You might find that thread via a search. If I can remember the name of the person who owns a kitchen with a corner sink not under a window but near one, I'll post a link to her finished kitchen pics.

    In the meantime, here are some pics courtesy of houzz.com

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/case-design-remodeling-inc-traditional-kitchen-dc-metro-phvw-vp~92625)

    [traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by dc metro kitchen and bath Case Design/Remodeling, Inc.

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/trish-namm-farmhouse-kitchen-new-york-phvw-vp~555498)

    [traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by new york kitchen and bath Trish Namm, Allied ASID - Kent Kitchen Works

    Here's one with a corner sink that overlaps a window more than yours will.

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/multi-level-kitchen-design-traditional-kitchen-new-york-phvw-vp~59135)

    [traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by new york kitchen and bath Susan Serra, CKD

    And another corner sink set-up with a window nearby

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/modern-kitchen-reno-contemporary-kitchen-toronto-phvw-vp~99901)

    [modern kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/modern-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2105) by toronto interior designer design box

    And another, although I have to point out that the DW placement is poor. When the DW is open, you won't have room to stand at the sink. That's why I placed a 12" cab between 42" corner sink cab and DW.

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/shoshana-gosselin-contemporary-kitchen-philadelphia-phvw-vp~51096)

    [contemporary kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2103) by philadelphia interior designer Shoshana Gosselin

    And a little more inspiration

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/shirley-corwin-farmhouse-kitchen-cleveland-phvw-vp~47171)

    [traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107)

    And another

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/fanning-kitchen-1-modern-kitchen-dc-metro-phvw-vp~590403)

    [modern kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/modern-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2105) by dc metro kitchen and bath Cameo Kitchens, Inc.

    And another

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/kitchen-remodel-traditional-kitchen-milwaukee-phvw-vp~561027)

    [traditional kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by milwaukee kitchen and bath Intercept

    There are pros and cons of corner sinks. One less corner cab with its awkward storage is a plus. A downside is that it's a bit more crowded to have two people at the sink. And if you're vertically challenged like I am ;-) wiping behind the sink requires lots of stretching and contortions (I currently have a corner sink set-up).

    Some people love them, some detest them. I like mine but even so, I'm not keeping it when we remodel. We're moving the cook top off the island and I need to shift the sink out of the corner so that I gain more prep room between sink and cook top. It will still be under a window because we're replacing the existing window with one that is 6" wider. Enlarging the window or shifting the one you have to the left is an option for you.

    You'll need to decide whether a corner sink is a good choice in order to keep the other window and have more counter between sink and range. Maybe you can find one at a local kitchen showroom to try out.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I like a combination of lisa's plans - use A, but have the range in between the windows as in B. With the island so close, I don't find that counter between sink and range to be precious enough to give up a window for it. Put the trash in the reduced space between the two. Move the fridge and run the pantry cabinets all the way across as rhome suggested.

    Actually, I would consider flipping L to place the fridge on the right wall, if only to get the DW out of the path between fridge and sink. Then you can run the shallow pantry cabinets all the way across without messing with the doorways... and maybe even then keep just one regular depth pantry cabinet at the left end, just wide enough for your printer and other things that would not fit in the shallow pantry cabinets. Like this:

    I also agree Lisa's idea of installing a header going into the wall with the shallow pantry cabinets if you are able. I've attached a link to cindyandmocha's kitchen with pictures of hers. Her pantry is actually only 7" deep and takes up 3" of floor space due to going into the wall with it. You can see how much she can store, and yours would hold even more due to being deeper. I did this for a small liquor cabinet in my kitchen and it is really very nice.

    Finally, consider separating the microwave from the range hood. Microwaves are usually best right next to the fridge for reheating leftovers and keeping reheaters OUT of the cook's way. They are also not very good at actually venting, so you have room for a chimney hood instead. I show that in my plan.

    Good luck!

    Here is a link that might be useful: Cindyandmocha's finished kitchen w/ recessed shallow pantry

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Summer, regarding shallow storage, I have 12"-deep pantry wall storage, and that works extremely well. It holds everything we buy, and lots of it. Campbell's soup goes in 5 deep, standard veggies 3 deep with room left over. Cereal boxes and large plastic containers for flour, rice, etc., fit straight in. No challenges, just great storage.

    I actually had cabinets like these in an old bungalow years ago and copied them for this new home. BTW, in this kitchen I also borrowed @4" from the wall depth to set a microwave and coffeemaker niche/counter into the middle of the stretch of storage cabinets.

    Regarding the printer, I went wireless a long time ago and put one in a nearby closet in another room and another hidden in an old sideboard in the same room. I love not having them taking up good work space.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Thank you everyone.... I continue to be overwhelmed by your kindness and willingness to help...SO glad I found this site!
    Lisa.. appreciate the pix of corner sinks. I agree, the look is just fine, and I would still be able to see out the window. Or i maybe could wangle it at the other window, which would actually give me a better view (still figuring that out) Only negative would seem to be if "someone" wants to help at the sink...might be a little tight.
    Do have a question... why are you moving your cooktop off of your island? Just curious, I am considering having one on mine, now that its a bit bigger and am wondering about the downside.. if you wouldnt mind.

    Tracie, I actually laid out your plan on Ikea's kitchen planner software and am mulling it over. I did so appreciate the links to cindyandmocha's pix of her wall pantry... now I can see that too... seems like it might work great for us. FYI, the wall I would have to go into is a major conduit for heating, plumbing, etc to go to the upstairs, so not sure I could recess the pantry much, if at all. But even at 9", which I think we could accommodate, its a great option.

    Rosie, ditto on the thanks for pantry input. Re: the wireless printer, I have also indeed been wireless for years.. until about 6 mos ago when my company's security software made it a no-go... so sad. (Ain't technology great?)

    Mulling this all over..(I'm slow and plodding, but I will get there) and thanks again to all.

  • 13 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Glad to help!

    There are several reasons why we're moving the cook top off the island to the perimeter.

    The first is that our island is only 60" long. That leaves me with only 16" on each side of a 30" cook top, enough to set a pan down or prep on a small cutting board but not more than that. My prep ends up getting spread out around my kitchen, which is very inefficient.

    Additionally, the 16" to the left of the cook top is also prime landing space for items coming from the fridge (across from the cook top), the oven (across the aisle to the left of the cook top) and the pantry (next to the oven). It's also the best spot to plop groceries when we haul them in from the car before putting them away in the pantry and fridge. Those 16" of counter are the most hard-working counter inches in my kitchen. It's not that I don't have decent stretches of counter. It's that I don't have enough counter where I need it because of the island cook top.

    Third: island venting is expensive. Even with the expense of moving the gas line, we end up saving money because perimeter venting is less expensive.

    Downdrafts are better than they used to be when we built this house 18 years ago but they still aren't as good as overhead vents and they are astonishingly expensive. Another issue: our 7" rising pop-up downdraft has been known to "blow" the gas flame out on the back burners on low. Today's gas cook tops have an auto-relight feature for when this happens but our old cook top doesn't and I wouldn't realize the flame was out until I smelled gas. Not good.

    We considered an island hood - also more expensive as a rule than perimeter hoods - before we decided to move the cook top but we weren't keen on having this rather large object hanging down from the ceiling in the middle of our modestly sized kitchen.

    Lastly, moving the cook top to the perimeter means that we can go from a 30" cook top to a 36" cook top, which gives me more wiggle room when cooking with large pans.

    If our kitchen and island were larger, we *might* have decided to keep our island cook top but they aren't and we don't have the budget to add on to the kitchen. Then again, a larger kitchen and island might not make a difference. I'm really looking forward to having an island for prep. I've realized how much extra walking I do in my kitchen because my prep area isn't centrally located.