attaching a drawer front to a drawer box

10 years ago

My slab-door cabinets have had a couple of drawer fronts some off when the plastic disks that are used in attaching them broke into pieces.

I talked to a local cabinet guy who said it wouldn't really work to replace those plastic parts, because the wood holes they're inserted into are breaking up around the edges.

He suggested this:

* put double-stick tape on the drawer front (or on the drawer box)

*position the drawer front carefully in front of the drawer box, and then stick it in place

*remove the drawer box and screw through the drawer box into the drawer front (it's a slab, so no worries about how thin it is; he sent me home w/ 1" screws and showed me how they'd bite deeply enough without coming through the front

He said:
*don't drill any holes in the MDF/particlewood of the slab drawer front, as that will weaken the wood; just drive the screw into it; and

*don't predrill a hole in the plywood drawer box either.
I'm thinking this one is a little sketchy; I think it would be a royal pain to try to drive a screw through plywood, and I think I'd be smart to drive a pilot hole, just a little bit thinner than the shank of the screw, so there's wood for it to bite into.

Do you think this will work? The drawer-front adjusters meant I could reposition the drawer front to get it to align--but if I'm working with an installed cabinet (so, level, not moving around, etc.), can I figure that if I get a good positioning in the first place, I don't need to worry that I won't be able to readjust it? For one thing, I can still (for now) adjust the front of the nearby drawer fronts and doors.

And I'm thinking I can do some things to help me get a good position (even margins and spacing; level; etc):

-e.g., tape shims to the sides of the cabinet, or build up a base on the floor of the right height using books or spare lumber, so I can butt the drawer front up against these guides as I position it.

Any warnings?

Am I making sensible assumptions (re: pilot holes, etc.)?

Any advice for how to be sure i've got a good position on that drawer front before I stick it in place?

Featured Answer

klem1

10 years ago

I'm with you all the way on pilot holes,I would even overbore the box to alow front being sucked up tight. Double stick tape is quick and accurate when you have only a couple of drawers. Stick the front on,step back to see how it looks and reposition if needed. When it looks ok open drawer and drill pilot holes,remove tape then drive screws.

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Comments (7)

talley_sue_nyc
Original Author
10 years ago
What about drilling the pilot holes first? I'm thinking the less I have to manipulate the box after the drawer front is on it, the better. And then I don't have to worry about drilling into the drawer front, etc.

Sort of: "don't take any risks you don't really -have- to."

He suggested I leave the tape in place, actually. Would that be a bad thing?
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talley_sue_nyc
Original Author
10 years ago
Oh, and by "overbore," do you mean a slightly bigger hole than your normal pilot hole? Leave a little bit for the threads to catch?

And would you clamp the drawer front before screwing, or not bother?

He said that since the drawer front is particle wood of some sort, that I shouldn't drill a pilot hole of any size--would you confirm?
klem1
10 years ago
" What about drilling the pilot holes first?"

I don't think we are on the same page Tally. If you drill pilot holes first,there's no need for double stick tape because position of front will have already been determined by location of pilot holes.

"He suggested I leave the tape in place, actually. Would that be a bad thing?"

Rather me than telling you,here's how you can decide for yourself. Useing 2 pieces of scrap wood aproximatly same size as drawer front,one representing box and other the front. Stick boards togeather with double stick then drive screws to fasten boards togeather. Do you see a problem now?
klem1
10 years ago
I didn't see your last post til just now. Overbore = slightly larger hole in box so threads don't bit as deep but clamping instead is a far better alternative to overbore. I didn't mention clamps because I wasn't sure you had clamps. Drilling pilots while tape held pieces alighned was as much to alighn pieces after tape was removed as to assist driving screws. Once tape is removed drop small nails in holes to perfectly alighn holes before clamping. Unless clamps have pads,put a piece of wood between clamp and front to prevent dimpling face. As far as pre-drilling particle board,I usually do. Not as large a hole as I would in hardwood but a pilot hole seems to help "unless" pieces are firmly clamped togeather. I still disagree with leaving tape between parts. Do the experiment above and decide for yourself. MDF screw threads are deeper than those on wood screws,be sure to use them.
talley_sue_nyc
Original Author
10 years ago
Yeah, I don't think we're on the same page.

I'm talking about drilling pilot holes ONLY into the drawer box itself, while the drawer front is not attached. And NOT drilling any pilot hole in the drawer front.

Then positioning the drawer front using double-sided tape.

Then driving the screw through the drawer box using pilot hole and into the non-drilled particle-wood drawer front.

So, would you just please explain, instead of this?

"Rather me than telling you,here's how you can decide for yourself. Useing 2 pieces of scrap wood aproximatly same size as drawer front,one representing box and other the front. Stick boards togeather with double stick then drive screws to fasten boards togeather. Do you see a problem now?"

I have clamps. I don't have scrap wood sitting around.
talley_sue_nyc
Original Author
10 years ago
Re: dropping small nails into the pilot holes to re-align: I don't think I'd be happy w/ that lack of precision; I'd need nail that fit VERY snugly before I'd trust that.