I guess I'm asking if I should change the outlet or the dryer cord. I don't know how to proceed. Do I need an electrician or a handyman? i definitely cannot tackle myself...

That's a legitimate dryer outlet but takes a different style of cord (with an L-shaped neutral prong).

Your choice to change the outlet or cord. May be easier and cheaper to change the dryer cord if you or a handy friend can DIY it than to hire an electrician to change the outlet (unless someone reliable can also DIY that).

That's a surface-mount outlet. On a quick search, I didn't find any surface-mount outlets to match the cord you have, although a professional electrician may have access to such. Otherwise it'd have to be changed to a recessed-mount outlet which requires cutting a hole in the wall.

Dryer Outlet

Dryer Cord

Thank you so much for your help! I'm sure it is a very common situation, but I've never come across it until now. Thanks again!

I've got some issues with that article, in an attempt to simpify things they make errors.

In both cases you have one that only has a grounded conductor (commonly called the neutral). In existing installations, it is acceptable to connect the metal frame of the appliance to the grounded (neutral) conductor. In more modern installations (and whenever otherwise possible), you would use a four wire cord so that both the equipment ground and the grounded conductor were separate.

About the only other difference is that the range plug you have will plug into receptacles that could be either 30 or 50A. The receptacle you have is only allowed on 30A circuits.

The first thing I would do is check in the box and see if a ground is present (bare or green wire). If it is, I'd replace the receptacle and the plug both with four wire connectors.

If not, the easiet thing would be to run back to the home center and get the cord that matches. It's called a 10-30R.

@Ron

The Neutral is NOT a ground (Even though that is where it is eventually connected). It is very dangerous to use this terminology in the way that you are using it. 220 circuits that have only three prongs do NOT have a neutral. They have two hot legs and a ground. A four wire circuit would have two hots, neutral and a ground. NEVER refer to a neutral as a ground. That is how people get killed. The neutral in a four wire system can carry current when the load between the two hots is unbalanced. So HOW does this become unbalanced? Many appliance have 120V accessories inside (Clock, Timer, WiFi, motor, etc.) and they tap one of the HOT legs of the 220 and complete the circuit using the neutral. There may also be other loads inside the appliance that draw more current from one leg vs the other.

A neutral by definition can be a current carrying conductor. A Ground is never current carrying unless there is a short somewhere. The three prong 220 outlets are technically unsafe. The appliance case can become energized in certain circumstances. That is why four wire outlets are now mandatory. Does this three wire risk happen often? No, but it IS a risk.

The op, as was stated previously, needs to replace the cord on the appliance. The one that is on there now is a NEMA 10-20. It is rated for 20amp service. Most dryers use MORE than 20amps. You need the NEMA 10-30 cord. NEMA 10-30R is NOT correct. The "R" on the end means "Receptacle" which is what a cord plugs into.

DO NOT change the wall outlet to a NEMA 10-20. The breaker that protects this circuit is rated for 30 amps. It WILL NOT trip properly if you replace the 10-30R with a 10-20R. What is more likely to happen if a 10-20R receptacle is used is the receptacle will melt or start on fire if a load over 20 amps is drawn. Cords and receptacles are rated based on the current they will carry. Those rated for fewer amps are usually made with thinner or fewer metal conductors. Conductors heat up as more current is drawn through them. Once they exceed their rating they keep getting hotter until they melt or start the outer plastic/rubber shield on fire.

GO BUY THE CORRECT CORD!

@ mrb6228

The cord that is shown IS NOT meant for an electric range. It is most commonly used on portable 220V heaters, Commercial toaster ovens, some electric power tools, etc.

Ovens are usually rated for 50 amp 220V service and have NEMA 10-50 cord. The plug on a 50 amp cord is significantly larger and would not fit in a 10-20R receptacle.

Now I am more confused than ever. I was about to just change the cord for now. At a later time I was going to have the 4 prong outlet put in. But just for now what cord do I need to buy to replace the one on the dryer?

ie, I need NEMA 10-30 cord. NOT with the 'R'' as previously stated. is this correct?

I will only replace outlet with the now regulated 4-prong type, just to be clear. That was my intention

Just take the picture of your outlet and run up to a hardware store and they will sell you what you need. We gave my mother my dryer and had to switch out the cords because she had the different outlet. Small town, we picked one up at Atwood’s farm store, so it was easy to find and my husband was able to switch it with basic tools.

Just buy a new dryer cord such as this GE WX09X10004DS ($20). Then follow the dryer's installation instructions to remove the incorrect cord and replace it with the new one. The instructions will describe how to connect a 4-wire cord and a 3-wire cord; follow the 3-wire instructions. Plug it in. Done.

If it is an older house, it may not be simple to change the receptacle since it may not have the neutral and ground separated. That is, it may only use 3 wires and not 4 in the cable. To change it, you would need to pull a new wire through the walls.

ie, I need NEMA 10-30 cord. NOT with the 'R'' as previously stated. is this correct?

The P, R, or S on the end of the NEMA configuration just peans Plug, Receptacle, or Socket. A 10-30P Plug will go itno a 10-30R receptacle. A socket is a female thing on the end of a cord (i.e., an extension cord is a plug, some wire, and a socket).

@Michelle G

Go to any hardware store and ask the person in electrical for a 10-30 dryer cord. They will know exactly what your your looking for. Should be less than $20.

go home and have your husband or you read the manual on how to connect it. Most likely the back of your dryer will have four or three screws that the wires attach to.

The Nema 10-30 cord will probably have a black and a red wire. It will also have a green or bare copper wire.

the green or bare copper is the GROUND. The Red and Black will be the HOT wires. The screws on the back of the dryer will be labeled for black and red for Hot and green or ground for the ground.

Screws for ground are almost always green in color. Screws for HOT wires are almost always Brass/Gold in color.

The old electricians saying is “Black to Brass will save your Ass”. It is an easy way to remember where the hot (black) wire in a cord connects on any electrical appliance.

Sorry, Luna. But the above is DANGEROUSLY INCORRECT. First off, there's no such thing as a 10-30 "cord." But I'll assume you mean a cord with a 10-30P plug on it. A 10-30P plug has no EQUIPMENT GROUNDING CONDUCTOR. The wire connected to the third pin should be WHITE not bare or green. The 10-30 has two hots and a grounded (that is NEUTRAL) conductor. There is an exception in the code to allow dryers and ranges to be grounded via their neutrals when connected to existing ungrounded circuits.

Our dryer from 1964 to 1977 had a "home-made" cord consisting of Romex wire with a 10-30P attached. It was always disconnected when clothes drying was done for the day. Never had the slightest problem with it.

"Not having a problem with it" doesn't mean it's right. First off, ROMEX is not approved for being made into cords. You could VERY MUCH have a problem with the flexing of it. Second, I suspect you used the bare wire in the sheath for the third conductor. This is indeed problematic and could be a fire hazard with older cables.

PLEASE PEOPLE, let's stick to the the code rather than accepting illegal hacks that just happened to not be an issue in the past.

I'm not saying it's either "right" or a good idea ... only that it has been done and the house didn't burn down.

This thread has gotten way more convoluted than necessary for the simple question the OP asked. The outlet on the wall is a correct 30 amp dryer outlet. Change the dryer cord to match and be done with it.

YOUR house didn't burn down. I could drink a fifth of Jack and drive down the highway and not have an accident, but it still wouldn't be safe or legal.

We told the poster exactly what you suggested (get the proper cord after making sure that the circuit doesn't indeed have a ground and in that case replace both the cord and receptacle). The problem is people like you add on to the thread with dangerous and illegal suggestions. Those need to be nipped in the bud.

Michelle, did the cord you show come with the dryer?

Dryers typically do not come with cords attached. This one looks to be a GE GTD42 series (which certainly doesn't). The home center "expert" most likely sold her the wrong one.

I am all for calling in someone qualified to look at this and decide for you what you need to do. An electrician is always good or a good handyman if you know one. Does your home center have a list?

mtvhike, no the cord was purchased separately, and I believe that the guy gave me the wrong cord.
Update: I've attached the proper cord and even had my vent duct replaced. Glad to say I'm doing laundry in my new home. Thank you to everyone for your help and input