Metallic light switches & plates in many different finishes & colors are available online & in lighting stores.

Sorry, I can't think of a worse idea (and possible code violation) than bare metal walls around water and electricity.

https://www.wallplatewarehouse.com/collections/types?q=2%20Rocker

They’re never going to look like they belong. Because corrugated metal does not belong in a bathroom, or really any living space. It looks uncomfortable and dangerous, and exposure to humidity is going to make it look a lot worse very soon. Perhaps a metallic wallpaper for a similar effect, without the threat of injury?

Please remove...the cutouts are very rough and way too large. You already have plate covers ...there is no way you can buy anything that huge. The screws are also sloppy...should be in an evenly spaced row...

Thank you all for your honest comments. We actually got the idea from this site, Houzz.

Okay, what was the plan before this was done? Did you consider the outlets?

You need an electrician to come in for this, but I imagine that you'll have to pull the junction box out far enough so that you can still fit a larger, frame-like piece that will clear the siding by maybe 2 inches? At least an inch, idk....when that's done, and if an electrician will do it, you'll need to build a frame that will go around the junction box, but that will ALSO cover the holes in the siding (I'm guessing that's about 4 or 5 inches around on each side)...the vertical sides won't be too much of a problem, but the horizontal top and bottom will have to be scribed to match the waves of the siding...and that will probably be a job for a carpenter.

Alternately, you could square up the holes, leaving the outlets where they sit, and frame out the edges of the larger holes....like a picture frame. You would need wood underneath the metal (for stability) and the wood frame over the top, finishing the inside edges with trim pieces.

Can we persuade you to remove this and come up with something equally as unique?

How can this be safe??

Frame the the outlet in wood then raise outlet to the wood frame. the wood frame would create a barrier between the metal and electrical outlets.

We did corrugated tin in our bedroom - wainscoting. Turned out awesome. You have to pull the electric boxes out from the wall. We found plates online at Lowe’s that match perfectly. You’re cut-outs are entirely too large. You’ll have to redo this for it to look good.

Not to mention,
What the heck is with that nailing pattern...?

Some ideas are better left as ideas, this can’t possibly be what you saw on houzz from a professional designer- This is not a copy in which you “Nailed it!” Sorry, Pun intended. Try a metallic wallpaper. Good Luck

Ummm...Side3 - Yes, they saw it on Houzz from a professional. Look in their ideabook and you will see 3 photos.

Some of these comments are pretty harsh. I live in Oklahoma, and this look is not entirely uncommon. I know more than one person with corrugated metal as a design feature in the interior of the house. (Not mine, I have chosen to install far less attractive things in my house.) The outlets are often pulled forward and installed on blocking. There are examples in YouTube videos if you search outlets on metal siding. (Please note that I recommend an electrician to do this work.)

Our entire barn is metal. The OP asked for help with light switch covers. Telling her to take down the whole wall is not helpful.
There are all kinds of metal covers out there but it does look like the openings made are too large. Ask the electrician how to fix the problem then shop the internet for nice outlet covers.

I don't think anyone is opposed to metal walls, per se. We're just wondering how safe metal walls are in a bathroom. Electricity, water and metal is one of those forbidden cocktails, no?

ETA: Ok, I just checked out the OP's ideabook to see the inspiration shots. I notice they're from a photographer and there are no questions or answers on the pics. Christina, how did you guys figure out how to do it? Did you wonder about bathroom code?

OP, if I were in your shoes I'd take the metal off, have the electrician line up the gang boxes for the switches and outlets so you only have one disruptive panel for that stuff instead of two at different sizes and heights, and then get a new piece of corrugated metal and cut a single, more carefully measured hole.

The only metal bathroom I've been in was horrifying -it was in this weird rustic/industrial AirBnB house (that I did not select), and it had metal walls and was a small wet room style thing that still had electrical outlets in it, but nowhere to put your clothes where they wouldn't get wet. A lot of us joked about getting electrocuted. Overall, that house was basically Exhibit A in the case against AirBnB letting random people run illegal hotels. So basically, anything you make will be superior to that bathroom, in both looks and function (as long as it's not a wet room configuration). I think the corrugated metal look can be done well, but care needs to be taken to make it doesn't look like a room in a shanty (sloppy electrical cutouts) or a deathtrap (metal wet room with electrical outlets in it).

The metal isn't a safety issue but it could create a moisture problem if a moisture barrier wasn't installed before installation. For the electricals I suggest either moving them off that wall if possible or if there's no place then replace the white with metallic tone units. Either Lutron Claro in stainless steel or Eaton Designer in granite silver series will do the trick. Last, get the matching screwless wall plates and installing them flush to the wall to deal with the corrugated metal surface. Be careful to cut the metal access holes as close to the junction box as possible so the metal abuts the wall plate. Use a bead of silver caulk to seal any gaps. Good luck! ~ Kathy, Beyond Design, VA

I appreciate everyone’s comments and the constructive criticism, but I do not appreciate the rude and unnecessary comments that are meant to hurt. I thought this site was to help and get ideas via the community, a small few of you clearly do not understand that concept.

Oh Christina I totally understand. I think there is a line that divides frank honesty and rude bully. Some people don’t know where to draw that line. There are a lot of Sophie wannabes on here.

OP...sometimes truth and honesty hurt... and sometimes you can’t fix the unfix able ...the critiques are not personal attacks, but opinions by those not personally invested...many of us here are experienced diy-ers, so we collectively might have some knowledge- it is your choice to take it or leave it...it is your home, so do whatever makes you happy...

@Brown Dog, LMAO

To be fair, the OP did ask "how to make the light switches look nice and like they belong." I think most everyone who replied (myself included,) sees that removing the metal is the easiest way to do that. Corrugated metal is not a forgiving material, and is indeed an unusual choice for an area with moisture.

And FWIW, the architect responsible for one of the inspiration photos did answer a question about the outlets in particular, though his solution was to avoid placing outlets and switches into the wall with the corrugated metal. If I were to try and achieve this look, I'd do the same, especially since it appears that the person who did this installation is not exactly comfortable with the material. It looks like they used tin snips, and placed the screws in a haphazard manner. And the example below appears to use a much heavier gauge metal, along with a lot of finicky details to make it work. There is quite a lengthy discussion where the architect answers a lot of questions about the difficulty of working with and maintaining such a material in an area where it may get moisture.

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/3257039/love-the-look-what-s-the-best-way-to-cut-holes-for-electrical-outlets

And yes, there's also some valuable information about how the metal itself could present a shock hazard. Hope that helps.

https://www.houzz.com/photos/half-bath-industrial-bathroom-san-francisco-phvw-vp~46569

The problem isn't the outlets themselves. The problem is the cow barn look you’ve attempted inside a residence. To really get the whole born in a barn look requires conduit and surface mounted boxes. Plus tetanus shots, and the willingness to constantly throw away money on the next silliest idea ever to come along.

Can you maybe retro fit something like this around them? I love it. The photo I attached is from the exterior of our home that we installed metal wainscoting around the entire base. Ignore the comments of hateful people. If we all like the exact same things there would be no need for Houzz. Keep tinkering until you get what is pleasing to your eye.

And before anyone comments, the surrounds are smooth edged all the way around, no sharp edges to cut yourself on. Last winter we did not have a single person stick their tongue to it.

Christina, Gosh, please accept my sincerest apologies if what I wrote seemed hurtful. I was trying to offer ideas. I'm a contractor as well as a designer. I tend to air towards the conservative when it comes to installations with a heavy slant towards nice design.
I mentioned the moisture in case it would help. It was beyond scope and unsolicited, albeit meant to be helpful. I'm sorry it didn't read as such. I truly wanted to help you get the best results possible with your project. I think what you've done is great!

@KathyTuftsBeyoneDesign,Inc. Oh no, I was not referring to your post. I appreciate the info you provided and did not take it negatively at all.

Dang - Green Designs! Ouch...So cruel!

Snap - Green Designs! Ha... So funny!!

I would remove it

we did our kitchen and bathroom. Your switch and receptacle holes are cut too big.

We did our automobile themed bathroom with tin wainscoting but I placed all but 2 outlets above the trim. We made sure to finish out the drywall and used a moisture bearer behind tin. Sprayed plastic outlet extensions black to match my plate covers. No they are not flush but looks fine and dandy.

Metal and water, lol, I guess you people have never seen farm buildings/barns made of metal inside and out and in wet conditions.

I made a piece of wood about 6 inches square to "trim out" the box and then mount the switch or receptacle faceplate. You can stain it or paint it depending on the material. I used a jigsaw to cut the wavy part out of 1x2 (my major ribs are 3/4" high. then the larger square piece is mounted. I masked it off, caulked the cracks, and painted. IMO looks super. Naysayers are whiners by nature who can't think outside their granite countertop box.

I looked throught the comments to see what others suggested, and I was blown away at all the the harsh comments. Those people should be ashamed of themselves. If your not gonna give constructive criticism, or helpful tips, why comment? To put someone else down? Im pretty sure everyone here is over the age of 18. We do not need anymore internet trolls in this world.

Back to your project, I agree with the comment about framming the wall plates. That would also break up the metal a little.

Another option would be the following - difficult to explain so hopefully I get it right.

1. You can still utilize your current metal despite the overly large cutouts. I would recommend you figure out a proportion so that your 2 gang and 1 gang boxes etc dont use the same exact size, but the same proportion.

2. Say you decide that your 2 gang cutout is going to be, for example, 2 inches from the box (remove current faceplate). So you take a piece of reclaimed lumber, cedar, etc whatever you want and cut out to the dimension whereby it will fit snugly within the larger square. You also cut out the exact dimensions of the box (1 gang, 2 gang, whatever it is). The material should be thick enough whereby it sits flush on the sheet rock and as high as the highest rib on the corrugated metal. That's your base.

3. Take the same material you made for the base, and make another exactly 1" or even 1/2" bigger on all sides. Whatever you prefer but this will be your "lip" over the corrugated metal. You will also cut out your gang box hole.

4. Place the second plate you made over the baseplate and tack it together with either wood glue and/or finishing nails/brads.

5. Add an electrical box extender as close as possible to the thickness (but no more than) of the baseplate you made.

6. You will now have a flat surface (the baseplate and top layer) in which to mount your outlet or switches etc and the baseplate you made will form a lip or channel around the corrugated metal which will show much better than what you have there.

Below is what I'm thinking - they make this for vinyl siding but teh principal is the same. This is a back view. The front will be a flat surface (the larger outside piece) and the corrugated tin will fit behind the larger front piece similar to J channel.

What you want to do is buy extension boxes for those receptacles to be able to being them out from the wall and past your metal. Get a. We sheet and re cut your holes. The electrical extension boxes are plastic therefore ensuring nothing metal around the receptacle comes into contact with the sheet metal also.

This is what i came up for outdoor barns and arenas

Used box extension and custom welsed the trim plate

Weld the 45’s on each piece?

Try black glass switches. Could work. Could you pls place a couple of more photos

I think it’s fabulous! Please post photos of your finished bath! No everyone has the same taste, if we did, what a boring life this would be.