I have a Maytag bravos top loader and the cycle time is about 1 hr 22 min for that cycle. I don’t know the answers to any of the other questions. In my washer if you add anything to the dispenser for the oxi but do not select oxi cycle, it will not dispense it.

I thought machines that had the "sanitize with oxi" cycle did not have an onboard heater. Also the machines that had the "sanitize with oxi" cycle did not have a "extra hot" water option when I was looking at new washers a couple of years ago.

As I understand the Sanitize with Oxi feature appearing on washing machines currently, the sanitizing is coming solely from the Oxi. Now, if this is pure powdered oxygen bleach being used at 140F and or above (much above), and preferably with a long soak, you can remove/neutralize quite a bit of unpleasant organisms. But, most people will use branded Oxyclean which has a lower dose of pure oxygen bleach and fills the remainder of its package space with fillers and other non-oxi materials.

I view Sanitize with Oxi as a marketing gimmick. As far as I can tell, these are not washers with an internal high temp heater. I probably Sanitize with Oxi every time I do a 140F hot wash with powder laundry detergent and oxygen bleach then let soak in my full fill TL washer. Just sayin'. Of course, if I am incorrect, some educating info would be welcome.

I saw a FB ad for Speed Queen FL washers today touting how it's new Sanitize with Oxi cycle will remove 99.9% of bacteria. Without an internal heater, I do not see how that Sanitize means anything above a reminder to the consumer to use oxygen bleach.

I'm mainly seeking details on the Oxi cycle(s) sequence to perhaps run a similar sequence on my (older) machines, which none of them have it, and no onboard heaters. My water heater outputs max of 140°F so I can't get that full temp in any of the machines due to thermal loss. I can get long soaks if that's a key factor. Seems chlorine bleach is more of a sure-thing, particularly if holding 140°F+ for a period of time isn't possible.

Sounds like more marketing to me.

GE says theirs is NSF certified. It is marketing but I feel like the certification does mean something, at least to me. I have a front loader with regular heat so I have no idea of cycle times

reading all replies in this thread..

Every one in a blue moon, I set the machine of full tilt. extended wash (longest run time), sanitize temps, throw in a good healthy scoop of precarb and put some used towels in there (to help raise the water volume) vs. a empty drum.

All to keep the outer drum (which we can't see) grime free

120F is warm water. It won't sanitize with or without oxi. It's fine as a wash temperature for most things.

The protocol cited in the literature is gibberish. Sorry but read it yourself. http://www.nsf.org/consumer-resources/appliances/washers-dryers

Again, anyone who wants the ability to kills germs needs hot water -- minimum 140F. That requires an onboard heater.

Believe what you like but that's the fact.

Don't know how helpful this will be to your quest, Dadoes, but just ran across the recently released user manual for Speed Queen's current front load models which now have a "sanitize with oxy" wash program. Here is a link to the manual: http://docs.alliancelaundry.com/tech_pdf/Production/807493en.pdf

Check out the chart on pages 19-20 and see if it provides the kind of detailed info you are looking for on the steps (and times for each) for a "sanitize with oxy" cycle on a machine which does not have an on-board water heater but which does take in hot water as hot as delivered from the home water heater.

Per the cycle chart and performance claim, SQ (or perhaps the "sanitize with oxi" protocol directly) says 99.9% of common household laundry bacteria are eliminated with 120°F input water and a 60-minutes wash period.

The temp IN the drum will not be 120°F even immediately after the fill is complete. IME there's an immediate minimum 10°F to 12°F drop due to the mass of the machine and clothes "absorbing" heat. For example, one of my deep-fill toploaders inputs 115°F (46°C) for warm and the resultant temp in the tub is approx 105°F.

Dados, when I had a top loader in a rental I would add quarts of boiling water to get the water temp up. After a gallon of boiling water the overall temp had not changed. I don't have data but my experience agrees with you.

You could do what our beloved MaMaP Did and boil soup pots of water....