Software
Houzz Logo Print
webuser_920917319

Electrical And Plumbing Code Questions-Please Help!

6 years ago

Hello all.

I recently had my hot water heater replaced. This was handled by a plumbing company through my home warranty. I have a few questions on passing inspection.


A lot of info:
I am in a condo built in the 1980s. The hot water heater is in a closet in my bathroom in the middle of the condo building. I do not have a drain line for my drip pan. Originally the plumbing company said they couldn't replace the WH because they couldn't bring it up to code since it was impossible to run a drain line. I called the permitting office and they said I would pass inspection if I had a flodstop device installed (a leak detector that would shut off incoming water if it detects water in the drip pan). The plumbing company and home warranty talked and the water heater was installed.

After installing the WH the plumber kind of took a step back and shook his head and said "I'd never have passed this" I asked what was wrong and he said "so many things" I asked if he'd tell me and he just shook his head no. He seemed like a nice guy so I'm not sure if it was because he is limited in what he can tell me but I kind of pressed because the inspector still has to come look. He said I didn't have a drain line (I replied that we put the floodstop instead) and he was like yeah they're letting you by on that, he mentioned the T&P valve piping/placement but said he made it so it'd pass and he wasn't worried about it. Then he said I don't have a quick disconnect. Another plumber had mentioned this to me but then said because my breaker is in arms distance I'll be ok. This plumber said my WH is technically in a separate room bc it's in a closet so I need one and should've had one installed before he came out. I said no one at this company or the home warranty mentioned it or I would have done it. He replied that "yeah I heard they were trying to cash you out" (but I refused and insisted on the floodstop alternative). I asked him what I should do. Do I have a quick disconnect installed or just mention the arms distance thing. But then would the inspector say my breaker box has to be moved? (Current code says it can't be in the bathroom) He wouldn't really answer me. I asked if I should call the permit office and ask and he said NO! Do not call them. Just wait and see if I pass the inspection.

Finally...my questions. I know the current code says you can't have a breaker in the bathroom but I believe I'm grandfathered in. I have been researching stuff and came across something that said if you do updates or changes then you're no longer eligible for the grandfathering and have to be up to current code. Does anyone have more insight into this? Should I have a quick disconnect added to that closet? And just not draw attention to how close the breaker box is? It's about $200 and I don't mind paying for it if I need to. I just don't want that to lead to me being required to move the breaker box. I want to be clear that I'm not trying to be sneaky and get around code updates, I just don't want this to ripple and lead to $1,000s in changes that aren't really needed. I can see why it would be smart not to call the permitting office and draw attention to this but should I call and run this quick disconnect issue by the supervisor that approved the flood stop alternative? Any advice?

Comments (12)

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    What constitutes a change significant enough to warrant bringing something up to code is something that your code office decides - but since that can be very expensive, they usually have written guidelines.

    Replacing a water heater shouldn't trigger moving the breaker box. That's not reasonable. It is reasonable that the replacement water heater go back in with a disconnect. Do that. It shows good faith and takes the issue off the table.

    If you were doing a big remodel of the bathroom - then I would expect that moving the panel would come up.

  • 6 years ago

    Where do you live? I've never heard of an inspection or permit requirement just for replacing a defective water heater. Is my area just lax on code enforcement or something?

    My understanding of the code on disconnects is that if the WH circuit breaker is within sight of the unit, or if it can be physically locked out so that it can't be accidentally turned on while someone is working on the WH, no separate disconnect is required. I would think that if yours passed inspection when the home was built, it shouldn't need one now, and would be grandfathered.

    This is the first I've read about the flood stopping gadget. Guess I'm out of touch. It's a good idea to help counter the awful idea of locating water heaters in - or worse, above - living space.

  • 6 years ago

    Everywhere incorporated within a 100 mile radius requires permitting and bring up to code for water heaters. It’s why it averages a 2K ticket around here.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    " Is my area just lax on code enforcement or something?"

    Maybe!


    Montgomery County, Maryland

    Work requiring a permit:

    Electrical (excluding plugged appliances)

    • Heavy-up electrical service.
    • Adding new electrical fixtures and outlets.
    • Adding new electrical appliances.
    • Installing baseboard or other electric heating sources Installing exhaust fans and attic fans.

    Plumbing

    • Adding, replacing or relocating plumbing fixtures.
    • Repairing or replacing water lines Repairing or replacing sewer lines.
    • Any changes in fixture piping Installation or replacement of water heaters.

    Mechanical

    • Installing or replacing a furnace.
    • Installing or replacing an air conditioning unit.
    • Adding, replacing or relocating ducts, diffusers or grilles.
  • 6 years ago

    There's no such thing as a "quick disconnect" in electrical parlance. This is why we don't let plumbers do electrical work. What you are required to have is a maintenance disconnect (nothing "quick" about it) that can either be SEEN from the point where the work is being done or is lockable. There's no requirement for any particular distance, just visibility.


    As for the panel, there's no provision that says you can't have a panel in the dry area of a bathroom (i.e. not in the shower). What you can't have in a bathroom on the code is the SERVICE DISCONNECT. Alas many panels also perform that function.


    As to what constitutes enough of a change to merit making you bring things up to code, that's at the discretion of your local inspectors. We can't tell you any formula. Note that if they do have an issue with the service disconnect being located in the bathroom, you can just place a disconnect elsewhere (like near the meter), though that will require the equipment grounding conductors (grounds) to be separated from the grounded conductors (neutrals) at the pane which is no longer the service disconnect.



  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Interesting. In the 30 or so years I've owned rental property, I've had many water heater replacements in my rentals. To my knowledge, not once has the plumber pulled a permit or called for an inspection. Maybe my area is just unusually sensible about such matters.

    My recent WH replacements have been running in the $800-950 range. IIRC, the $950 one included an after-hours call. Nowhere close to 2 grand.

    I guess that's what happens when you vote down all your taxes - they just get their money elsewhere.

  • 6 years ago

    "Maybe my area is just unusually sensible about such matters."

    "I guess that's what happens when you vote down all your taxes - they just get their money elsewhere."

    Yeah, I guess that's it. lol

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Okay, so we all know that local codes may be more strict than national codes and that enforcement of codes also vary. In my Midwestern city they would laugh if you pulled a permit for a water heater - let alone if you wanted it inspected. In other locations you need a permit to fart.

    Ron is correct, the code is within sight of the panel or have the ability to lock out. Your locality may interpret "in another room" is, by definition, not within sight of the panel as your installer suggested. He may know this from his experience or he may not know the code.

    What I know is that it's not a great plan to get into a debate about code with the inspector. If the panel isn't obviously within sight of the heater then have them install a disconnect and be done with it.


  • 6 years ago

    The CODE doesn't talk about when permitting is necessary or what inspections would be required. That is solely vested in the local authority.

  • 6 years ago

    I had a property fail its first rental inspection due to no permit for the new hot water heater. I was following the rules and had a plumbing permit for the new piping but the water heater was in decent shape so didn't replace at the time. When we had a new furnace, we removed the chimney and installed the powervent water heater. Rental inspector caught the new water heater but didn't look twice at the new furnace. Funny thing is the permit price for a new furnace is more than double the price of the plumbing permit.

    We called the plumbing inspector who set us up with a licensed plumber to pull the permit. I went to city hall and paid the permit fee and called for inspection. Inspector came over, glanced at the work and spent most of his visit chatting. Licensed plumber got his fee, and the city got their fee and all was well in the world

  • 6 years ago

    Yup!