waterlox is waterproof. shouldn't leave any rings.

rings on regular finished tables result from either wax, or a poly.

I haven't had issues w/oils. even mineral oil, which is something else you could use.

But the Waterlox should be fine. why don't you get a little sample of walnut and try out the finishes?

Poly is safe--once it's cured anyway. Even if you eat chunks of it, it will pass right through. :)

And while poly is waterproof, it will get rings if you put something HOT on it. (You won't get condensation rings on it.) I don't know about the other finishes, but you probably shouldn't put hot stuff on them either.

I have a mineral oiled cherry counter--with oil you can just sand and re-oil if needed. Super easy. Scratches don't show too much because it's not glossy. Best not to let liquids sit though.

Do what Beth says and test out different finishes. Not only do they perform differently, they look different.

Although a great idea, I didn't want to invest in quarts of several different finish products. I've heard some (especially Waterlox) is pricey! I'm trying to narrow it down to one or two before I try it. I didn't realize that mineral oil is not shiny. Thats the look I am going for - kind of a satin or matte finish. @Fori, do you have issues with the oil being absorbed by other things you put on the counter? Like papers or the mail?

Pure tung oil (not tung oil FINISH) is what you would use. it's not expensive. It has a very distinct smell. you may or may not care for it. tung oil builds up w/repeated usage and will seal the wood. it can darken the wood, but the finish when dry is matte. maybe slightly satin.

mineral or butcher block oil is about $10. has no odor, really. I don't think it will stand up to hard usage like Waterlox or even tung oil.

I wouldn't use poly on a butcher block. maybe it's safe, maybe not. I just wouldn't use it. plus, poly is rigid. with expansion and contraction of the wood it may crack over time. that's why the oils are better.

Ok, so Tung oil will seal the wood, and is safe and I can reapply as needed. Why do people use Waterlox? Is it a better seal, or more durable?

prob easier. (waterlox) Tung oil takes repeated coats. as it dries,( can take a few days to completely absorb and dry) it hardens and seals the wood.

Tung Oil has been around for many many years. It was used to preserve wood ships for hundreds of years. The oil penetrates into the wood, providing a relatively hard surface that repels water, giving it a waterproof finish. ... When tung oil is not thinned, in other words, it's 100% tung oil, it's a non-toxic finish.

The Waterlox is prob once or twice and done.

Remember,,100% pure tung oil should be used. not the 'finish' that is sold in some stores. (that stuff is actually a type of varnish and not food safe)

I get my tung oil from The Real Milk Paint company. they have a dark and a light. it will need to be thinned because natural tung is very viscous. I use their citrus solvent. It will evaporate

I used their tung oil on this dresser (and many other pieces I've redone) over their milk paint

but here's a shot of the oak top. no poly, just the oil. (and i used it over all of the paint too)

https://www.realmilkpaint.com/butcher-block-oil/

All natural and FDA approved for food contact, Pure Tung Oil is one of the best oils for butcher block. It is a hard drying wood oil that enhances the natural color of the wood while providing a beautiful finish. This oil has no additives or metallic dryers in it, so its safe for you and your family. For an all natural wood oil for cutting boards and butcher block, buy a bottle of Pure Tung Oil today.

I see they actually make one that's already mixed for you. the one I have you have to mix yourself.

Our Half & Half Oil is perfect for protecting cutting boards, countertops, and other forms of butcher block because it is all natural and food grade safe. The one to one ratio of citrus solvent to pure tung oil allows for the oil to soak into the surface, making it great for large and small projects alike!

If you or someone in your kitchen has treenut allergies avoid tung oil. Also the slight golden tint in tung oil can change the original look of walnut.

We do not have tree nut allergies - but my daughter has a new boyfriend who does. Not sure if he will last as long as the island, but do we need to be careful about visitors will allergies forever? Or just when initially treated.

I can second tung oil for how durable it is (100% pure, not the cheap stuff). We used it to finish a low bookcase eight years ago (three coats with drying in between). That bookcase has been through the wringer being in the bedroom and playroom of our three boys (spills not wiped up for a long time, direct sunlight, hit with wooden swords...) and it looks perfect! I can hardly believe it. We always meant to add another coat sometime, but we haven't gotten around to it and it looks absolutely great. Poly finishes are so much more subject to damage in our active house. I would do tung oil on a counter in an instant. I don't know about the allergies question. You might want to use a cutting board when preparing foods for highly allergic individuals, but it may be that it is pretty stable after curing. This is a difficult question to answer since some people are allergic to such small amounts.

Best of luck in your project!

is the boyfriend eating the wood? when it's fully cured it will be fine. use a cutting board when chopping food so as not to ruin the finish on the butcher block.

At least until it is cured even than possibly not an issue if it is 100 percent pure oil for allergies are generally protein based. Again it does yellow the walnut a bit and I just do not understand butcher block counters not being used as cutting boards I am a function before form gal though.

up to her if she she wants to use the butcher block counter as a cutting board.

I made a custom walnut cutting board for myself, and use it all the time. I've had to refinish it because it gets pretty 'torn up'.

All I'm saying is to use a cutting board for serious knife usage if she wants the finish to stay looking new.

Thanks everyone - I like the look of wood and the warmth, at least on the island, as opposed to granite or quartz. I will do one of those on the perimeter. I am not planning a butcher block counter, just a wood island. With long boards, not the butcher block boards that are all very thing. I wouldn't want to cut on it as I have seen wood get pretty chewed up from that, and I don't want to be scraping and sanding it all the time. I'd rather use and replace cheap cutting boards when they get scratched than sand down the the wood on an entire 6 foot island too often. To recap what people are saying:

Waterlox is waterproof, goes into the wood to seal it, so there is no trouble with leaving spills, wet stuff, etc. sitting on it. Sounds like it smells bad and takes some time to cure, needs a couple coats. Can be very shiny.

Tung oil (the real stuff) takes more coats, doesn't smell as bad, and is food safe but may have trouble if I have some allergies. Also wears well, waterproof finish. Causes some discoloration of the walnut. Has a more satin finish.

Mineral oil is easy, but not waterproof. Wouldn't want to leave spills sitting around.

Does that sound about right?