The physical orientation of the pump doesn't matter to its functioning, although it should fit into the allotted space in only one way. The orientation of the wires doesn't matter, although the connector plug may also fit only one way.

What led to pump replacement? Your answer to this question may have some bearing on the water inlet problem, and I'll answer further after you reply.

Is this the first pump replacement on the machine such that the machine didn't already have the added fuse for it in the console? If it did not have the fuse, did your new pump include the retrofit fuse kit, and you installed it?

Hi - thanks for the response. I did NOT use the fuse that came with the new pump. I figured it was a spare or something. I also wasn't sure how to install this.

Also, the original cause of the problem was that our tub was filling with water, then not draining. It got to the drain cycle, then just stopped.

Thanks for any tips you have.

The control system on these machines is sensitive to the electrical resistance and voltage values of the various component parts. A pump gone to off-spec resistance as may occur from water damage to the windings if it leaks or electrically fails can damage the board. The fuse kit is a retrofit included with replacement pumps to protect the board from future pump failures. There should be an included instruction sheet detailing how to install it. You didn't get a sheet? What was your source for the replacement pump?

--> Was the machine completely dead when it stopped without draining? Or was the panel powered but the pump just wouldn't run? The pump has thermal overheat protection so may not run until it cools and the protector resets. Did you try waiting a while when the failure occurred, then manually draining by advancing the cycle to the final spin?

Does the pump run now if you advance to the final spin?

A board damaged by a bad pump may evidence failure on other components than the pump circuit. There normally are fault codes triggered if the water valve solenoids go bad. The cold valve fault normally takes precedence over hot if both are bad, and the fault typically will trigger immediately on plugging in the power cord as the board checks those circuits when it boots-up to standby mode. It's possible the valve codes don't trigger if the board is damaged on the valve circuits.

Have you tested the hot and cold valves via diagnostic mode?

Thank you Dadoes. I'm over my head with the electrical aspects so I'm calling in a technician. To your questions, I did get a sheet with the fuse, I just didn't know how to install it and didn't realize I needed it. (I also found the sheet impossible to read/understand as it was low-quality copy.) The machine was not completely dead when it stopped, but we did wait plenty long and it wouldn't drain even after a day or so of the water just sitting there. I haven't since been able to test the pump because now it's not filling with water. I also don't know how to use diagnostic mode so I'm calling in help.

The pump will run for drain even if there's no water in the tub. Turn the machine on, press Advance (the double-arrow button immediately to the right of the cycle progress lights) until only the Spin light is on, then Start. The pump should immediately turn, then spin will begin shortly after. You can turn the power off at any time to cancel it.