On the south side of my lot is just under a 2 foot gap between my patio wall and the property fence. I’d love some deciduous screening there but is it too narrow to plant anything that would get to be 10+ feet tall?

If you’re wondering whether my neighbor would kindly allow me to pay for a tree to be planted and maintained in his lawn area to the east or southeast, unfortunately he won’t. See picture.

Finally, on the north side of my backyard I want to screen traffic and overhead power lines. Between my eastern neighbors’ mature pine and spruce and my own crabapple and shed, this area is in shade for most of the day. I’d like to plant an evergreen that would get 10-15 feet tall for year-round screening, or- if it would do better in shade- a deciduous tree that would get tall enough to screen the power lines. Moving the 9 foot tall shed might not be so easy given the footings in the ground, but I’d consider that to open the area not behind the crabapple tree to midday sun. See pictures.

This is a beautiful house on a very constrained piece of land, and it’s what I could get in last year’s terrible real estate market so I’m trying to make the best of it. If you have any ideas about what I can do on the southeast corner, north side, and/or south side of my
backyard I would greatly appreciate them.

Do not try to plant any kind of tree within two feet of buried lines. Don't try it within a few feet of buried lines. You might be able to put a planter of something in that corner, but be prepared for it to be able to be moved. In case of utility access.

Looking at pictures taken at different angles is difficult to imagine. A flat map of the yard with distances from fences and buildings would be more useful to spot opportune places to plant.

But I agree with beesneeds, in MN you can't plant withing 10 ft. of the front of an electrical box and 4 ft. from the other 3 sides. IF utility people have any trouble getting at doing their work, they will remove whatever is in their way. Including Fences and trees or shrubs.

Might be able to squeeze in some crimson spire oaks, but those spaces are very tight.

Looks like your neighbor has a lot more room. Have you talked to them about planting some trees in their yard to make a screen between properties?

' If you’re wondering whether my neighbor would kindly allow me to pay for a tree to be planted and maintained in his lawn area to the east or southeast, unfortunately he won’t. '

The op already had that covered in his post.

Look at possible additional architectural solutions like arbors, lattice and lath. Which can be used as supports for climbing plants, when a body is willing to do annual pruning and training. And do not plant trees that will later grow into nearby features, both above and below ground.

Also consider that trees take many years to develop - how long do you want to wait for trees to size up? Because most of the time a tree you picture in your mind being 10 or more feet tall is not going to get there even 6 months after planting. Unless you buy specimens at or nearly at that height already. Specimens that are likely to quickly go on to get very much larger over time. Unless quite slow growing kinds costing thousands of dollars in 10 ft. sizes are found and used.

Thanks for the input, everyone. Here’s a plan view with North identified and the three areas about which I’m seeking advice circled. Some very quick ideas from a friend are scrawled in pencil, but we didn’t have time to get into detail with the challenges I’ve described. What I don’t like about his cantilevered pergola idea is that it I feel like it would reduce the sun in the winter more than a deciduous tree. I have to imagine it’s also more expensive and I wonder whether it would feel constrained? The posts would have to be about 13 feet tall from the ground level just off the patio retaining wall to the roof level of the house.

In Colorado, you’re supposed to stay 18” away from utility markings. I could place a young tree in the nearly 4 foot gap between the markings, although the hole for a 1” caliper tree would get into that 18” buffer zone on both sides. On the other hand, could the locators really be off by 18” this close to the boxes? The thought was to plant a tree with a vase shape that would be able to clear the fences and lattice by the time it reaches them- perhaps with a little pruning.

Alternatively, I do have a very large planter which I could heel into the ground to provide some insulation for the roots. How deep I’d need to heel them so they would survive our Zone 5 winter temps? That’s another question I don’t have an answer for.

Thanks!

I rotated the map to make it easier to see.

But I'm going to leave this to the design and landscape people.

Be patient, someone will be along to give you some ideas. :-)

Trees have roots. They don't stay little balls in little pots like you get from the nursery. They grow to match and can sometimes grow 2-4 times as far out as the crown of a tree depending on the kind. If all you have is 18-24 inches of space, you will have tree roots growing into your utilities at some point. Your tree will likely grow into your neighbors yard and irritate them too. If a tree grows limbs over the fence they will be able to trim them back. And might do so if they don't want trees in their yard.

I wouldn't foot in a planter. That kind of defeats the point of it being mobile in case it needs to be moves out of the way for utility work. Use smaller planters that can be moved and use build ups instead as has been suggested. Perhaps something like clematis up a trellis will give you some height and screen while keeping it safe with utilities and neighbors.

Perhaps attach some wire to the fence and start some vines. Sadly that doesn’t add height, but would look nice. You could perhaps add a lattice/pergola topper to the fence?

Forget about trees. Think large shrubs instead. One that comes to mind for your zone, tight spaces and sun/shade variability is Hicks yew. Go to a good local nursery and inquire about large shrubs. There have to be a few suitable to Colorado for tall hedges. Some may require pruning more than others.

@Christopher CNC, are you referring specifically to the narrow east side gap between my patio wall and the fence? Straight Talk Privet can reach 12 ft height with 2-4 ft width, and is hardy to Zone 4 with tolerance of part shade. Green Tower Boxwood can reach 9 ft height with 1-2 ft width, hardy to zone 5 with full or partial sun. I could see Straight Talk Privet working on the north side as well. On that southeast corner, I’d really need more than 12 feet to provide any shade from the southern sun.

@krnuttle, the trees planned for that 10’ swath of the front yard are columnar Rocky Mountain Juniper, which should not exceed 4 feet width. I agree that the trees of my dreams will require a larger lot. Thank you for your feedback.

imo.. you do not have room for any tree that will outgrow the height of the fence.. in your lifetime ...

if you are trying to hide yourself on your porch or patio.. a pergola with some garden curtains is the solution... im sure you dont need a massive structure like many of those pictured in the link below ....

and start saving for that acreage you know you are longing for ...

ken

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=pergola+with+garden+curtains&t=ffab&iax=images&ia=images

who knew lowes offers such.. it was a shot in the dark on my part ..

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Outdoor--Curtains-drapes-Window-treatments-Home-decor/4294398489?refinement=4294546694