whats the question?

Finger pull hardware is great, comes in several options and looks great on white slab cabinets.

Available everywhere. Wayfair.com has some great afforable options.

If by finger pull you mean “edge pull”, there are threads about them here. I like the minimalist look and installation without holes in the front of my drawer face/door (some require notching the edge/door, some don’t) which leaves the option of switching to a conventional pull later.

I’m been testing them and find that some don’t have enough room for your fingertips to curl around and get a grip. Others stick out and have sharp corners. Some are, as in Goldilocks, ”just right”.

If your drawers take any noticeable effort to open, or if you have arthritis or other finger, hand, wrist strength or flexibility issues, they may not be ideal. On doors, they can be mounted vertically or horizontally.

Some people think they get dirty on the underside, but I think if one’s fingers are that dirty, any pull or knob will need a wipe-down.

I’m going to use edge pulls on my cabinets, when we get tired of the blue painters’ tape tabs. I’ll have them made to be the full width of each drawer, so you can open a drawer without looking for the pull.

I am a big believer in testing things oneself instead of relying on the opinions and subjective experiences of others. With edge pulls, that is easy since you can buy a few different types and install them without leaving any mark on the front of the drawer face. Until then, there is always tape.

If by finger pull you mean a “recessed pull“ mounted in the drawer/door face, there are many types and I think what is possible depends on the thickness of the face material. If the material is, say, only 1/2”, then you’ll only have that much room to recess the pull - not enough. There are recessed hinged ring pulls that solve that problem and look cool and nautical, but are a pain if you’re opening that drawer constantly.

I have them in my laundry area cabinets.

I'm not a fan, but then again, I have arthritis in the fingers of my right hand, so they would be difficult for me to use without pain.

Also think about fingernails. Are you someone who has long fingernails? If so, they might make it difficult to use.

I have them in two places: sink tilt-outs, and toe kick drawers. In both locations they are totally invisible, the tilt out pulls fit under the small counter overhang, and the toe kick pulls fit under the standard cabinet drawers above. Since the sink tilt-outs are very light, there are no finger issues operating those, and the toe kick drawers are quite literally pulled out by slipping toes, slippers, or shoes under the pull and using a tiny bit of leg strength to pull the drawer out. I'm completely happy with both those installations, but I use regular pulls and knobs elsewhere.

I'd want my cabinet source to know exactly what I was planning......: )

My contractor as well,

https://www.tiktok.com/@joe_thiele/video/7276556872394607915

vs. this

Make sure you try them out at a showroom on doors that are the same weight as yours to see how they feel in your hand and if you like how your fingers grip them. They don't work for me because I have weak hands and fingers. They are also not ideal for aging in place, but you may not need to think that far down the line.

Here are alternatives - many of which require modification to the doors themselves.

https://www.houzz.com/magazine/top-9-hardware-styles-for-flat-panel-kitchen-cabinets-stsetivw-vs~4146060

@JAN MOYER, my edge pull was installed in the same technique as your tiktok video.

What don't you like about it, the position? This is a bathroom vanity, so I wanted the edge pull out of the way, for a cabinet door that rarely gets opened, and I wanted the quatrefoil Rocky Mountain knobs to be the 'star' on the vanity drawers.

I got exactly what I planned.

I have had two kitchens with edge pulls and designed one for someone else.

I prefer edge pulls that mount from the back so the metal on the pull is what is pulling on the drawer rather than on a screw put through the top edge of the drawer. I worked in an office that had the type with the screw through the edge and most of the screw holes were enlarged by the pressure on them and the pulls got loose. That was a commercial environment so people were harder on things, but something to keep in mind.

The person who had all edge pulls on drawers has not had a problem because she does not keep heavy things like pots and pans in drawers.

In the one kitchen I had them I had tried one on the DW and it was too hard to open, so I had to add a handle.

The guys who made the panels for my Subzero said ahead of time not to put the same edge pulls on the refrigerator because they had just made new doors for a client who originally had edge pulls but the doors were too difficult to get open.

I currently have knobs in this kitchen and I would not want edge pulls on the bigger drawers.

I have edge pulls on all my closet doors some of which are very heavy, but they have a minimal magnetic catch and the hinges are either well balanced pivots or Soss hinges. So they are very functional on those.

The cabinet maker needs to understand you are planning these since often the doors do not allow the install and they all get dirty underneath just like any pull. I find them awkward to use even though I have slab doors in a very contemprary kitchen and honestly do not find them visually obtrusive . These need planning before cabinet build or you risk damaging the door to route out the area that takes the pull so do not think later you can change your mind .This is my kitchen the barpulls are simple but functional

"These need planning before cabinet build or you risk damaging the door to route out the area that takes the pull so do not think later you can change your mind"

Yessssss.

Chispa, I didn't notice a route on yours: ) Mea C.

You want gola channels routed into the doors. Integral J channels. That's the most functional option over edge pulls, especially with MDF doors.

Actually the edge pulls I have on my closets are screwed in from the side. But they are on 1-3/8" or 1-3/4" doors--and I have the contractor drill a second set of screw holes through the pull so they are mounted with four screws. But for cabinets I do really prefer a back mounted style.

And yes, you usually can't change this for another style pull because the edge is routed.

Some thinner style pulls on full overlay cabinets so not need to be routed because they are thin enough to fit