bump

Abandon the flush mount please; particularly at this stage. I've never seen one look good and it's a cleaning nightmare. Maybe they can get that to sit more evenly.

What is the brand and model of the cooktop?

When queried, Copilot Ai wrote the following:

"You cut a quartzite countertop using:

• A water‑fed diamond bridge saw (preferred)
• Or a water‑fed angle grinder with continuous‑rim diamond blades (onsite adjustments only)
• Plus diamond core bits for the corner holes
• With constant water cooling to prevent burning, micro‑cracking, and blade glazing.

"Quartzite is too hard for carbide tools, dry cutting, or consumer‑grade saws."

"What not to do

"These are the failure modes I see most often:

• Dry cutting → burns the stone, warps the blade, causes micro‑cracks
• ..."

Thank you everyone. yes, at this stage all I want is for it at least sit flat. but that will also need cutting. it is a gaggenau 90cm induction.

That cooktop needs to sit lower but not flush mount unless you love digging out the crap that goes in that little space all around the cooktop. As for the cutting it should not be done on site since it requires copious amounts of water to cut right . Not sure who owns the issue but not you so get it done right but no flush mount please

Please check the installation manual. Some induction cooktops such as made by Electrolux have had past requirements to provide a thin gap for cooling.

kaseki: "requirements to provide a thin gap for cooling"

No, in fact the gap between the recessed cooktop and edge of the cutout is to be filled with silicone.

This is a difficult installation (IMO). The installation instructions I found show the CI292102 installed only flush, not on the countertop. The CI292112 sits on the countertop.

• Was the cutout (hole) cut correctly: 490W x 880L?
• Was the "ledge" cut correctly: 525W x 913L x 6.5D?
• Are the radiuses of the cutout ledge correct: R3 and R5, respectively?

several posts up: gaggenau 90cm induction.

oncape: "What you have now is called a 'proud mount'..."

No, what he has now is a "bad mount". His CI292102 cooktop is designed only to be mounted flush.

I have a flush-mount Wolf induction cooktop -- 30-inch, set into a granite countertop -- and the granite was cut so precisely that there is barely 1/16" between the cooktop and the granite. It was finished off with a special sealant in that tiny gap, and I have never had any problems with food or dirt getting trapped between the cooktop and the granite. It was done in 2016 -- so 10 years ago. I LOVE IT!

@wdccruise, when I commented, OP had not yet identified the maker of the cook top in the post. : > {

it is a CX492101

oncape: "when I commented, OP had not yet identified the maker of the cook top"

Actually, she had.

The CI292102 and CX492101 are the same size and installed the same way: flush.

It's possible to recut the cutout without mess. On site, you're never getting the rabbet that a CNC would do, so I'd cut all the way through around the perimeter, knock the meanness off the cut edges, remove the toolmarks, and strap the cooktop to flush like a sink.

Perhaps another way would be to remove the "rabbet" as suggested above and then attach wood supports to the sides of the cabinet to support the edges of the chassis. However, this and the straps methods assume that the appliance can be supported by its chassis. Imagine that the appliance was installed this way and then a heavy cooking pot was placed on the cooktop that caused the sheet metal chassis to buckle under its weight.

Hard to tell from the pictures, but it doesn't look like that section is removable! So what option do you have? They need to cut on site. I would take tons of photos/video before during and after. Just to cya!

UGH!