You shouldn't have to open two breakers. The rangetop should be connected to a double-pole breaker (twice the width of the other breakers). If it isn't, it was installed in violation of code. (I've seen a 240v central air-con unit improperly wired to two separate breakers.)

To test, set meter on 200 volts range or higher. Touch one probe of the voltmeter to the metal junction box. Touch the other to the red and black wires in turn. You should read close to zero volts, or at least something under about 20 volts.

If both are zero or nearly so, as a backup check, set the meter to 500 volts or higher. Touch one probe to red and the other to black. You should again read only a very small voltage reading, if any.

It's safer and better, IMO, to test with a test light or Wiggy, for several reasons.

David,

Thanks for the quick response. You may be right about it only being a single breaker. The home was built back in 77, so I guess I was assuming it'd be 2 breakers.

The volt meter I have does not have a switch on it. only two probes and a light for 110 and a light for 220.

Any reason I couldn't do the backup or final check with this meter? i.e. why the need to set the meter to 500?

Thanks again!

The home was built back in 77, so I guess I was assuming it'd be 2 breakers.

No, code has never permitted 240 volt circuits fed by separate breakers unless they were next to each other and their handles were physically fastened together. Sometimes two FUSES have been used, however.

The volt meter I have does not have a switch on it. only two probes and a light for 110 and a light for 220.

Ah, OK. That's not what I call a meter, but no matter. It should be fine. Don't worry about setting it for anything.

I see an issue (no neutral) with the new cooktop which will likely
require 120/240 unlike the old stove which was 220 only.

Regards
Chris

The new cooktop has red, black, and green only. I am assuming it also does not need 110 since it is a stand alone unit with no clock, no light, etc.

Okay, having a little issue here with the install and hoping someone who knows more than me about electrical (which shouldn't take much) can help me out here.

I connected red to red, black to black, and green (from the stove) to the ground in the house.

Problem is once I turn a burner on, and then off, the stove light stays on and the burner stays warm.

Any thoughts?

Is this an indicator light that says the burner is on? Our new stove has indicator lights for when the burner is on and also for hot surface, I still get them mixed up and check to see if the burner is actually turned off. Takes a while for the stove top to cool and lights to go out.

Turns out the cooktop on/off light doesn't turn off until the burners have cooled off, not simply when the switches are off. Think I'm all good now.

Those glass top ranges will leave the indicator light on as a saftey feature because you can't tell if a burner is on by looking at it. It would easy to set something down on top of a hot burner and not realize it.