Breaker switches. (They don't come with the panel.)

Wire nuts; Cable staples; Connectors; Grounding leads - (for use with metal junction boxes)

Fire proof caulk

Light fixtures.

Up to date code book!!

Well in my state you are not allowed to wire a house with the intent to rent or sell unless you're a qualified electrician. So make sure you don't run into that problem.

Other things: 10/2 romex for the hot water tanks

10/3 romex for the dryer

6/3 romex for the range

Ufer ground wire to attach to the Ufer ground in your foundation if that wasn't already done.

Arc fault breakers for most of the structure. Regular breakers elsewhere.

Make sure that the outlets that you get are tamper proof.

De Ox if you plan on using AL wire for the feeders to your panels.

Proper size wiring if you have a forced air heat/ac system.

Weather rated GFCI for the outlets outside the home.

i'm sure there's more I haven't thought of.

Nor can you work on multifamily houses even if you're living there in most states.

Hopefully, you have already had the grounding system installed and whatever bonding is appropriate done.

Places that are on some modern edition of the code require AFCI protection in at least the bedrooms and possibly all living space.

Hopefully, you know what the required outlets are and which circuits can't be shared with other areas.

Grounding of all electrical equipment as needed with 8' ground rod or rods.

Knowing what AFCI, GFCI. and line load, neutral, ground, switch leg. travelers, home run, dedicated wires are and there proper types, color, gauges, and usage are usually is a good starting point. NEC (National Electric Code) is the bare minimum in most areas you can never go below those standards but you can always go above code with quality craftsmanship and quality materials.

A good example is backstabbed outlets virus pigged tailed according folded true series circuit outlets.

Backstabbed outlets can knock power out to downstream outlets when they go bad and wear out from useage and age.

Pigged tailed according folded true series circuit outlets. Form a tap off a trunk line and even if the device goes bad and wears out from useage it will not knock power out to downstream outlets and devices. Only in a fault to ground thru a dead short will the outlets be knocked offline.

And one last above code tip is never ever mix lights and outlets on the same circuit breakers even though code says that you can do it. The reason for this is if you trip a circuit breaker that has lights and outlets on the same circuit breaker then you are usually in the dark. By having dedicated circuit breakers for lighting and dedicated circuit breakers for outlets even if you trip an outlet circuit breaker you will not lose your lighting. Hope this helps. www.dbelectric.us

Safety plates for studs, ground rods and wire, temp light fixtures, whatever applicable for double pole (proper gauge wire, double pole breakers) (dryer, WH, range, pump, in-wall heaters, etc), and other things posted above.

And a PERMIT.

When my panel was replaced, the electrician had to have it inspected, we dont have a local inspector being rural so a state inspector showed up randomly and looked at it. If this applies to you, you will still need someone to inspect it. I do random electrical upgrades my own without permits but a new main panel needs someone to look at it. I dont have a main disconnect serving the panel and your not allowed in the meter so I had an electrician do it.

Considering your asking what to have, I dont really know if what you are up to is kosher or not.