Summer squash? Most winter squash should still have time to make before frost if seeded soon. Fall carrots around mid July. Broccoli, cauliflower you could start indoors in a week or so and transplant around late July early August.

Any kind of fast growing veggie - greens (lettuce, arugula, mesclun), radishes, etc. These are often recommend for sequential seeding (IE., every week or two throughout the growing season) to provide continuing cropping.

I forgot to mention that the okra would have been in 5 gallon containers.

I thought they should have already sprouted by now to get a good harvest from them.

This year I am having a hard time sprouting a lot of things. My okra would not sprout. Most of my string beans would not sprout. I had less than 10% sprout success rate on them. Thats even after soaking them and planting them after the root forms.

I'd avoid planting the spring type crops like lettuce as the east coast summer heat isn't too good for taste/growth. Right now I'd plant summer squash, cucumbers, bush beans, and one last plot of sweet corn, probably orka too but I don't grow that.

ETA, for containers, my list is much shorter.

Your troubles with germination need to be resolved. Okra and beans are pretty hard not to germinate. It's a "this year" thing, in that things would sprout well last year? If so, it's probably not about contaminated soil. Overwatering can hinder germination and, on that score, damping off in a soggy medium can destroy seedlings in the ground before they break out of the soil. Those fungi could have recently colonized your growing medium. You might try to sterilize some seedling mix and see if it works better.

It is only a this year thing. Im not sure if its the fluctuating weather or something else.

Okra:

1. I soaked for 1-2 days till the seed cracked and I can see the white breaking out of the husk. I then planted it shallow (around 1/4-1/2 inch) in the soil. Kept the soil most every few days when it dried up. This is in 4 containers. The containers are soy sauce containers my friend washed out after he finished them. New bagged soil as well for the container. I put them in the soil about a month ago with no signs of growth. While I waited for them to start I planted spinach seeds around the center a couple of weeks later and those sprouted really quickly, with no issues to date.
2. About 2 weeks ago I soaked some more seeds for a day. I put them in a small pot and kept it under a heating source. Moved it outside as day temps were above 70. No signs of growth.

Beans:

1. I laid a napkin on the bottom of a long plastic container. Wet the napkin and placed the beans on top. Closed the lid to keep in the humidity. Some of the beans spoiled and I tossed those as soon as I saw them. The rest had the root coming out. I gently picked them up and put them in the ground. Marked them area I planted them. Planted 12 beans and only 2 sprouted.
2. I started beans the same way. Planted them in the same spaces. Took the extra and planted them in a small container. Again only 2 have sprouted in the ground. 3/5 of the ones in the pot sprouted. Im waiting another week to see if the rest sprout before I transplant from the pot to the ground.

Why all the pre-soaking/pre-sprouting? The only time I ever find any of that useful is if I am working with old seed that may not be viable so I test it. Otherwise it all the things you list gets direct seeded where it is going to grow in the ground and the soil kept moist until it sprouts and get established. If this is all fresh seed or seed that has been stored properly then germination with direct seeding shouldn't be an issue as long as there is sufficient soil moisture.

Cracked open seeds with the radicle exposed can dry out and die off very quickly.

Dave

Ive read that presoaking speeds up germination by a few days. Thats why I do it

That strategy should work, as long as the plants are kept moist and treated very gently. Planting seeds that have already sprouted ought to give you 100% success in plants coming out of the soil. You've already selected out those seeds that don't germinate.

If you have the extra seed you might try an experiment repeating your pre-sprout method and at the same time plant seed direct into the containers. See which method works best for you.

"Ive read that presoaking speeds up germination by a few days. Thats why I do it"

That can be true with some hard-shelled, hard to germinate seeds just as scarification is required with some and stratification with others. But it certainly isn't required nor commonly practiced. Millions of gardeners direct seed crops annually without any pre-soaking. And it has to be carefully done or the radicle dies. It also can have the problem you have discovered of mold development and rot.

As vgkg said why not try it both ways and assuming proper watering techniques you may be very surprised at the results.

Dave

I don't know about you up in New York, but here in Arkansas our average first frost isn't until October 10th, so there's quite a lot of time left for most crops. Due to how quickly most summer crops grow in the late summer heat, we've probably got until sometime in July before we ought to finish sowing. I started my fall/winter cabbages and Brussel sprouts in late May to be transplanted before the end of the month, and most broccoli, cauliflower, or earlier DTM cabbages are coming time to start. As Jack said, root crops like carrots have got some time left.

As others have said, I'd avoid planting greens like lettuce for at least a few weeks or so. I'm timing my first planting to mature in early-mid Sept. when the weather is a lot cooler (hopefully).