A talented custom cabinet maker, or very talented woodworker, sure. But they’ll tell you to skip trying to make something look like something else and just use the right material in the first place. It’s far easier, and will be far cheaper than paying for someone’s time to over process it and fake it.

The problem to overcome is that white oak has a pronounced grain that can grab stain or whitewash more easily than closed grain maple. It's probably going to require multiple layers of stains to simulate the appearance and it will end up being like a faux finish.

If white oak were an option, I would do that. It's not (I even offered to pay more.) The downside of moving into a development that is non-custom. That is why I am asking if there is anything that can get me close... I know it will never truly look like white oak.

Any luck with this???? I would love to do the same!

You sure that is white oak and not quarter sewn/sawn white oak? I have plain white oak (custom cabinetmaker) and it has grain to it , the first pic you show has none

Pretty

Sarah -your chairs look terrific!

I have the same problem. We are building a custom home, but the design center says they don't have white oak, or they have a shortage. Either way, it's not available. They have said we can possibly do Maple, or Clear Alder? Wondering how to get it to look as close to white oak as possible. I have also heard of possibly doing pine and staining, similar to the lady above who did the chairs. I am wanting these style/color cabinets for my laundry room and my powder bath.

Any luck with staining/dying maple to look similar to white oak? I am wanting to do this as well. Any info would be much appreciated.

Yes same here. Anyone with any luck?

I told the contractor I wanted a light wood island. He suggested maple w/natural stain. I suggested white oak a couple of time but he insisted maple. I didn't question it. Cabinets are being made and now as I look around I notice everything I like is white oak. Anyone find a stain they are happy with? I'm so bummed out I didn't push for white oak.

Do you have a picture?

If your main goal is to save money and you don’t mind hard wax oils… get red oak and use Rubio mint white precolor and cotton white oil plus 2c.

Hard wax oils are not maintenance free but they are infinitely repairable and DIYable..

Thanks so much Kori!!! That was incredibly helpful!

You mentioned "I tried their "reclamation reactive stain", "salvage reactive stain" and then the "restoration reactive stain".

Did you use just one of the Weatherwood stains or 3 different stains on one piece of wood to achieve the look?

I have to add, my successful trial was tried on maple that was coated with a clear coat beforehand and it did make a difference on the appearance. I had no idea though that my cabinet maker did that so I wanted to add in case somebody is questioning how theirs turns out. If you do it without the clear coat, it may be like any other maple stains that show dense areas and unevenness. And unfortunately I do not yet have a picture. My custom cabinet guy has the wood still and the samples that I loved. I am also trying a grayish/white mix (of course water based bc it is for the same maple) that a custom stain guy is coming up with bc I wanted to see samples with a bit more gray, and once done I hope to get back on and show y'all that too. Life just gets crazy and I forget these blogs/comments.

Bianca, I used each one on separate pieces to test them out individually. I did not mix them except with the clear coat and oil that can go over them to achieve darker tones or bring out certain tones in your particular wood. I did decide after a few days to add a coat or two to achieve what i decided I wanted.

I did ask around and didn't realize maple wood is different dependent upon tree and supplier. I'm finding more out as I build. SUCH a learning process so although this did work for MY maple pieces, I truly hope it will work for y'all! Again, don't forget a clear coat beforehand!!!! No particular brand. It changed it drastically when I didn't have the clear coat which is why I called my cabinet guy to ask WHY it changed and he said "oops, I didn't put the clear coat on those samples". 😑 Once I did, it was all gorgeous again! Again, learning experience.

Kori, I would love to see pictures!! I am currently stripping down maple wood cabinets (which is a nightmare in itself) and trying to make them look as close to white oak so they'll somewhat match the flooring that will be installed. However if I think I won't be happy with the outcome then I will probably just paint them instead.

Hi Kori. Are you able to share pictures of the end result? You have a captivated audience here, but no ’proof’ of your hard work! We’d love to see how it all turned out. As well as the exact process you took if you can remember.

@bry911 I am interetsed in learning more about using/maintaining hard wax oils. I’ve seen some beautiful wood finished that way - I just know nothing about it. Are you able to use it on a vanity? Should I simply buy some sample boards and play with it?

Kori, very happy you got great results staining maple, thanks for sharing the process with rest of us. I am trying to re-create this process but have couple questions before I start

1. You mentioned that stain was applied AFTER the clear coat, Usually the method is sand, stain and then coat, instead of sand, coat and then stain. If stain is applied after clear coat, would it even penetrate the coat and reach the wood to oxidize/color it?

2. What grit did you use for sanding in-between stains?

3. Did you put a top-coat after the stain?

I am assuming that Kori is talking about a seal coat rather than a clear coat. Seal coats are often used on Maple to eliminate some of the splotchiness.

Kori, thank you for the follow-up!

Your comparison photo (photo #3) is definitely the most helpful. So both top and bottom have coats, but the bottom has more coats? Do you have any comparison photos against raw Maple?

Also, in your first photo it is quite hard to actually see the grain structure. Is that what it looks like in real life when you went a few shades darker than your inspirational photos?

I'm seeing that Weatherwood doesn't sell anything smaller than quart containers. Where you able to work with a local supplier to get samples or did you have to bite the bullet and purchase full quart containers for your testing?

How were you able to determine that spraying was absolutely necessary? In the various 'stain experts' I've spoken with at Home Depot & Guiry's, they advise against spraying because the stain could begin to pool and if you don't wipe it off fast enough it could penetrate more and look different. With wiping alone, you can control the speed of application more easily. What does spraying do that can't be achieved via wiping alone?

Kori (KP),

I realize this chat is from a while ago but I was wondering if you ever posted pictures of your personal cabinets that you stained lighter than that one cabinet you posted.

I would love to see how they turned out!!

I hope I understood everything.

1. Order the Weatherwood stain: REACTIVE water based stain

2. Test it on my maple cabinet wood.

3. If its what I want take the stain and test sample to Sherwin Willians or a paint store that will match stain.

4. Do a clear coat first.

5. Have the stain sprayed on vs wiped on.

6. Fall in love with the cabinets!

Did I forget anything?

Thanks for posting this. I have been spending hours and hours searching for exactly what you seemed to have tackled, Turning Maple cabinets into faux White Oak cabinets. haha.

Fingers crossed I get this right.

Thanks!

KP - Did you ever get the formula mixture from your staining guys? I love what you posted above in your sample piece!