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dave_parks81

Single pole switch not working

10 years ago

I have a light switch that has a single pole switch controlling 1 kitchen light & a 3 way switch controlling a light in the dining room. The wall where the switch was located was opened up about 2' and the switch was part of that 2'. I put a junction box above the walkway so I could extend the existing 3 cables roughly 4'.

I purchased some Romex, tied the black to black, white to white, and grounds together, essentially extending the wires. I grounded the box and all is good.

After hooking everything up exactly the way it was, I have an issue. The single pole has a black wire coming to the top terminal and another black wire looped on the bottom terminal then passed over to the 3 way switch. When power is turned back on, the 3 way works perfect, controllable from 2 separate locations, as well as powering some downstairs lights, as it did before. The problem is the single pole switch that controls the single kitchen light doesn't do anything. When the breaker is kicked on, the 3 way works perfectly and the single kitchen light is on, regardless of what the switch does. When I remove the switch, nothing works because the 3 way was getting its power from the looped terminal on the single pole. If I unhook everything, meaning no wires connected at all to either switch, the single kitchen light turns on. The only way to shut it off is to turn off the breaker.

I replaced the single pole switchave because I was getting 120v on both terminals in both the on/off position. Basically it is just acting as a pass through of sorts for power. Thinking the switch is bad, I replaced it. Same problem.

I took several pictures of all of the wiring beforehand, meticulously labeled all wiring new AND old as to avoid any questions, and still can't figure this out.

I will try to upload my pictures. I have double and triple checked all of my wiring, verifying I wired everything just like my before pictures, and nothing. I am not a professional electrician, however I have done plenty of wiring in the past including an entire garage, ceiling fans, sub panels, etc., so I'm not a complete fool. I would really like to avoid having an electrician come out for something that is probably pretty simple and I'm hoping for some help here. Sorry for the length but I'm trying to give all the information upfront. Thanks in advance.

Comments (8)

  • 10 years ago







  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I don't read in your description that you have a 3 conductor cable (black, white, red + ground). This is required for a three-way switch hook-up.

    Now that I see your pictures, it was obviously an incorrect installation to start with. You will either need to pull some new cable or forego the second switch on the 3-way circuit (an option which itself may not be legal).

    BTW, I hope you know that the square JB you added cannot be left inaccessible behind a finished wall and you do not have a proper header above that doorway.

  • 10 years ago

    I bought 3 conductor wire (yellow), but the existing wire was all 2 conductor. I bought 3 on accident.

  • 10 years ago

    Thanks for the response. I need to cut in an access port for the junction, should have already done it but haven't yet. As for the header, it had just a 2x4 stretching across a doorway size opening. I doubled that with more 2x4's next to the existing ones as well as more vertical 2x4's to help support. When I opened the outlet neither switch was grounded, but the box was. That was my first red flag I saw. Plus the wire being looped off a terminal is another short cut. The house was built in 1977, and I would have to say that this is original wiring.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago


    Here is the original header.

    I essentially made it a 4x4 header with cripple studs as well.

  • 10 years ago

    The header must run continuously the complete width of the opening, supported by jack studs on each end. Any cripple studs are then supported by the header by resting on top of it. Your picture shows the header being broken into multiple sections with cripples passing through it.


    Wall Construction

  • 10 years ago

    Ok, I see your point now. It's not exactly to code, for that I'm sorry. Any other help with the electrical?

  • 10 years ago

    To have a 3-way switch hook-up, you'll need to have a 12-3 cable running between the circuit's two switches, 14-3 if it's a 15 amp circuit.